Archive | August, 2012

Masu Robatayaki & Sushi

29 Aug masu hong kong

 

dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

Masu hong kong

The excitement of a new sushi restaurant will never ever get old, despite how many our beautiful city is loaded with, so when I heard about Masu Robatayaki & Sushi’s arrival, I was as keen as wasabi to put it to the test. Masu is Privé Group’s newest baby, located in On Hing Building, just off Wyndham Street.

The décor is very minimalistic, using shades of cream and grey to create, in my mind, a rather boring and drab ambience. Diners can sit around the sushi bar or on proper tables, but there is nothing particularly eye-catching about the décor.

Thankfully, however, the food completely makes up for any lack of atmosphere; as the name suggests, Masu serves up everything from scrumptious sushi to incredible robatayaki, with endless choices in between.

In fact, endless is exactly what the menu is, almost to the point of being overwhelming. Unsure where to begin, I asked the manageress Rabina to order for us, knowing she would be sure to serve us the restaurant’s signature dishes.

masu hong kong

After a failsafe bowl of salted edamame, we were served a beautiful selection of assorted sashimi including sweet shrimp, yellow tail, salmon, scallops and tuna, served, of course, on a mound of ice. Each piece of seafood was incredibly fresh and wonderfully tender, melting like butter in the mouth.

masu hong kong

A Japanese fruit salad followed: a lovely combination of gorgeously juicy sliced tomatoes and soft smoked aubergine paired with a delicious garlicky sauce. It certainly contradicted my belief that salads are inexorably boring.

masu hong kong

The signature Masu deluxe rolls that came next were possibly some of the best sushi I have had the pleasure of eating. Wrapped inside the rice was egg, crab and finely sliced cucumber, while delicious seared Wagyu beef, toro, Hokkaido uni and salmon roe sat neatly on top, all drizzled in a sweet ‘secret sauce’. Although it was rather difficult to eat in one go, the flavours all complemented each other perfectly.

masu hong kong

On to the robatayaki, the beautifully cooked asparagus was impossible to fault. However the grilled ox tongue, marinated in delicious spices, could have been amazing, yet it was so tough I could barely sink my teeth into it, which left me rather disappointed.

masu hong kong

Thankfully, the succulent chicken wings made up for it. I am usually hesitant about ordering chicken wings, as there’s often more skin and fat than meat, but these chickens had definitely been well fed.

masu hong kong

Even better was the minced chicken meatball, served alongside a soy and egg yolk dipping sauce. The meat was spectacularly juicy, not dry in the slightest, and simply packed full of flavour. I rather wish we’d each had our own meatball rather than having to share…

masu hong kong

Next came a plate of cute little beef croquettes. Tender chunks of beef and slightly pickled veggies were encased in very fluffy and flaky batter that was far from greasy and dangerously more-ish.

masu hong kong

Last but by no means least (of the savouries) came a bowl of steaming Inaniwa udon noodles. The broth was rich and comforting and the noodles had a perfect chewy texture; although we were struggling to eat another mouthful, it was near impossible to refrain from finishing the whole bowl!

masu hong kong

The delicious meal ended with a scoop of sesame ice cream, which was exactly what we needed to cleanse the palate and send us into a comfortable food coma.

Service started off a little hesitantly, but they made up for it as the meal progressed, making sure to change our plates after each and every dish; I seriously hope they have a dishwasher! As you can imagine, being part of the Privé Group, a meal at Masu Robatayaki and Sushi doesn’t come cheap: a hearty meal without drinks would likely cost between $400 and $700 per person, minimum. If, however, you’re after some commendably fresh and delicious Japanese fare where setting (and cost) isn’t important, then definitely give Masu Robatayaki and Sushi a try.

Masu Robatayaki & Sushi

UG/F On Hing Building
1 On Hing Terrace
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2537 7787

www.masu.hk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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‘The Humble Shroom’ at 208 Duecento Otto

28 Aug

 

 

I’ve been to 208 plenty of times, be it for a casual dinner downstairs, a glass of wine at the bar, to collect a takeaway pizza, or for a slightly fancier dinner upstairs. However, it has not yet found a place on my blog…until now.

I was lucky enough to be invited to try 208’s ‘The Humble Shroom’ dinner. Unfortunately this menu is only available until the end of the month, but I still thought it deserved a mention, and hopefully through this, those who haven’t yet put 208 to the test can imagine what its regular standard of meals is like.

208 Hong Kong

The setting is beautiful, with toweringly high ceilings and dark wood contrasted with blue and white Chinese-style ceramic tiles. It has an elegant and grand feeling about it, somewhat akin to a restaurant you would find in New York’s Meatpacking District (coincidentally the very spot used to in fact be a meat storing warehouse).

208 Hong Kong

Our evening began, as any should, with some delicious soft buttered pizza bread, fresh from the oven. A note on 208’s pizzas: they are in fact some of the best you can find in Hong Kong, with perfect thin bases and delicious fresh toppings. The first time I went to 208, I was sat at the long marble table downstairs, next to a trio of Italians; when we asked them where in Hong Kong has the best pizza, their answer included 208.

208 Hong Kong

On to the main event, some little canapés of Chopped beef carpaccio, pickled shitake and tarragon cream, as well as Roasted field mushrooms stuffed with chopped shitake, wilted spinach and gorgonzola were set before us. While I liked the chopped shitake filling of the latter, there wasn’t nearly enough gorgonzola, so I definitely preferred the beef carpaccio bites.

208 Hong Kong

My choice of starter was the White asparagus with shitake, slow cooked egg, burnt butter and parmesan. The egg was cooked to oozing perfection and paired wonderfully well with the discs of mushroom.

208 Hong Kong

The Roasted suckling pig for main course, served with morel and fava bean ragout, potato and garlic anchovy aioli, was deliciously comforting although somewhat difficult to eat; I kept finding little bones that got in the way of my enjoyment. Although the crispy skin was scrumptious, I found I had to first separate it from the meat in order to be able to cut through it. The fava bean ragout was wholesome and very tasty, yet I must say I preferred the side dish of broad beans, peas and girolle salad.

208 Hong Kong

Dessert thankfully didn’t include mushrooms; instead it came in the form of a mushroom, as a Vanilla panna cotta Shroom with chocolate, almond crumbs, cocoa powder, mint and espresso. The presentation was beautiful and it tasted lovely too, with the delicate flavours of the panna cotta contrasted with the rich chocolate, refreshing mint and light essence of coffee.

208 Hong Kong

A plate of delicious chocolate truffles (made to look like the mushroom counterpart) was also laid before us. These were absolutely faultless…I only wished there had been enough to take a little box home with me!

208 Hong Kong

And finally, with no connection whatsoever to mushrooms, but simply because they are amazing, we shared a platter of Homemade ricotta bomboloni: sweet Italian fritters with raspberry marmalade and a mascarpone zabaglione (isn’t that fun to say?!). These were remarkably light and dangerously more-ish. Thankfully, they are a constant on the a la carte menu, so I implore you to try them on your next visit to 208.

This three-course menu (along with extra treats such as the canapés and the truffles) costs $428 per person, similar to what a normal meal from the upstairs a la carte menu would cost, without drinks. Service is efficient, staff is friendly; clearly they’re doing everything right, as the place has been packed since it first opened. In short, with so many restaurants to try in HK, 208 seems to be one I always continue to go back to…need you ask why?

208 Duecento Otto

208 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2549 0208

www.208.com.hk

 

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Goodness gracious meatballs of flavour!

24 Aug obe organic hong kong

OBE organic hong kong

I had a very exciting experience earlier this week when a delicious delivery arrived at my office just in time for lunch. Inside a sturdy paper bag there was everything I needed to make a delicious meatball sub. But this wasn’t just any meatball sub; this was an OBE Organic sweet and spicy meatball sub.

obe organic hong kong

Australia’s oldest and largest producer of organic beef, OBE Organic, has teamed up with Chef Christian Yang, the chef behind super excitingly named Bang Bang Pan Pan to create four delicious and healthy recipes for meatballs. PARKnSHOP are doing a Meatball Mania promotion from 21st September to 4th October, during which time these scrummy meatballs will be available for you to buy at the discounted price of $56.90 per packet and make yummy recipes at home.

I’ve never been to Bang Bang Pan Pan (although it has been on my list since I stumbled past it after the Sevens a couple of years ago), but if my meatball sub was anything to go by, then Chef Christian Yang is certainly a bit of a god.

obe organic hong kong

Inside my bag was a cute glass Tupperware containing meatballs in their sweet and spicy sauce, branded with a label instructing me to microwave them (I was almost more excited about the Tupperware than its contents), a little box containing fresh Thai basil and fresh coriander, another little box containing pickled carrots and cucumber and last but not least, the softest, most delicious looking rustic baguette that at first sight I thought big enough to feed the 5000.

obe organic meatballs hong kong

It was as easy as microwaving the meatballs, stuffing them inside the sub, sprinkling them with the fresh herbs and pickled veggies, and indulging in my incredible sub that definitely made all of my colleagues jealous. Having originally thought the sub was enormous, it was so delicious that I ended up eating (almost) all of it, completely ignoring my silly gluten intolerance.

Now I’m afraid I have a little bit of bad news for all of you readers…when you buy your meatballs they won’t be quite as easy to make into the perfect sub; they come frozen, without the sweet and spicy sauce. But the good news is that in their frozen, naked form, you can create whatever recipe you so wish, and as they have been pre-cooked, it’s as easy as defrosting them and warming them up, so even the most amateur cook can make them into a delicious meal!

The very easy recipe for the Sweet and Spicy OBE Organic Meatball Sub is here for you:

Ingredients
1 packet OBE Organic meatballs
1 rustic baguette (or your favourite bread. Gluten free works too of course)
1 handful fresh coriander and fresh Thai basil

For the spicy tomato sauce
1 tin organic tomatoes
½ brown onion, finely chopped
2 cloves minced garlic
2 stems lemongrass, bruised
1 lime, juiced
1.5 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp soy sauce
2 tbsp shiracca
Oil for cooking

Homemade Vietnamese pickles
1 carrot, cut into fine strands or grated
1 cucumber, peeled and cut into fine strands
100ml rice wine vinegar
4 tbsp caster sugar
4-5 tsp rock salt or 2 tsp fine salt

Mix the salt with the vegtables and allow the salt to extract water for 20-30 minutes. Wash three times. Add to the vinegar/sugar. (This will keep in a glass jar for up to 3 weeks.)

To serve

  1. Make the spicy tomato sauce by sweating the onions and garlic in oil on a medium-low heat. Once caramelised, add the tomatoes. Add all other ingredients except the shiracca and simmer with the lid on for 10 minutes. Add a pinch of sugar, a splash of fish sauce and shiracca to taste. (The sauce will keep in the fridge for up to a week)
  2. Defrost the meatballs and sear in a pan. Add the spicy tomato sauce and simmer for 2 minutes.
  3. Add the meatball filling to your favourite bread and garnish with the fresh herbs and pickles.
  4. Gorge and smile.

Other exciting recipes you can make are:

obe organic meatballs hong kong

Lady and the Tramp Spaghetti and OBE Organic Meatballs

OBE organic meatballs hong kong

OBE Organic Meatballs in Pho

OBE organic meatballs hong kong

OBE Organic Kimchi and Lettuce Wrap

If any of these take your fancy then feel free to get in touch and I would be happy to send you the recipe. Otherwise, just experiment, have fun and create your own exciting meatball recipes!

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Kau Kee

20 Aug

 

 

Kau Kee Hong Kong

Kau Kee has been serving beef brisket noodles on Gough Street for over 90 years. I’d be lying if I said I’ve been meaning to go for that long, as that wouldn’t even be possible, but I was long overdue a visit that had been put off for one reason or another for a good 12 months.

After another near-cancelation due to a nasty chest infection, I realised there could be no better cure than a hearty bowl of soup noodles (other than Mummy’s chicken soup of course).

Despite the hour-long queues at lunchtime that stretch the length of Gough Street, we were seated for dinner almost immediately.

As in most of Hong Kong’s noodle shops, at Kau Kee diners are seated alongside other diners, where they slurp their noodles up (literally) within 15 minutes to make room for the next batch of people. With plastic tables and chairs and a floor you wouldn’t dream of putting your bag down on, there is nothing fancy in the slightest about this place.

Although the menu looks long, really it is broken down into three options: beef brisket noodles in soup, curry beef tendon noodles in soup, or dry noodles with oyster sauce, each with the choice of vermicelli, e-fu, flat or rice noodles and of course the option of adding a side dish of Chinese veggies to inject a little goodness to the meal.

Kau Kee Hong Kong

We first shared the curry beef tendon with e-fu noodles in soup and I was instantly blown away. Beef tendon on paper may sound a little difficult to digest, but having been braised for hours, it was incredibly tender so that even the gelatinous bits of gristle melted beautifully in the mouth. The soup base had a comforting spicy kick that definitely tried its best to chase my chest infection away.

Kau Kee Hong Kong

The beef brisket noodles (with flat noodles after our initial choice of rice noodles were sold out) were different to those of other noodle shops in that the broth was clear as opposed to a rich brown colour. Don’t take the colour to mean that it isn’t potently beefy however; the broth, laden with beef brisket, is left to simmer for hours, leaving a complex, aromatic soup base permeated by the rich flavours of the beef. The noodles added a definite egg-like flavour similar to what you get from wanton noodle soup.

Kau Kee Hong Kong

The very simple vegetables were nothing particularly special, but they needed to be ordered to make us feel slightly less unhealthy.

The total bill for two bowls of noodles, two drinks and some veggies came to $117; expensive Hong Kong restaurants need to take a leaf out of Kau Kee’s book! I wouldn’t argue against Kau Kee serving some of the best beef brisket noodles in town, yet I think I would still choose the curry beef tendon noodles; never before have I enjoyed eating tendon quite so much…

Kau Kee

G/F, 21 Gough Street
Central
Hong Kong

 

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Naughty Nuri’s, Batubelig, Bali

17 Aug

Naughty nuris batubelig bali

To celebrate my sister’s birthday in Bali, we opted not for a Balinese restaurant (although we know these are good from my previous trip, reviewed here), but for a much naughtier option: Naughty Nuri’s in Batubelig.

Naughty Nuri’s is famous for its “wicked ribs and brutal martinis”, so it was definitely the perfect place to go with a group of 20 to celebrate such a momentous birthday. Despite not being able to reserve a table, we stomped our feet, raised our voices, and eventually managed to land ourselves the biggest table in the house, albeit at rather a tight squeeze.

There is nothing fancy about this restaurant; it classes itself as a warung, a casual family-owned café with wooden tables and benches. Yet when the emphasis is on the ribs and martinis, who cares about the surroundings?

Over the course of the evening, we ordered four rounds of lychee martinis, each impossibly stronger than the last. The fun isn’t just in drinking the cocktails, but in watching the staff perform a hilarious dance as they shake up the cocktails tableside. If you know my brother, ask him for a demonstration – he knows the moves better than anyone!

Food-wise, we massively over-ordered, asking for ten servings of each of the following: pork chops, tuna steaks, chicken, corn on the cobs, potato wedges, and, of course, ribs. A little excessive you say? Perhaps, but we needed something to soak up the industrial-strength martinis.

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

Everything was pretty tasty, but I feel a special mention needs to go to the pork chops. I had no qualms about picking up the bone and finishing off every last piece of meat, for fear that any should be left to waste. The meat was succulent, bursting with flavour, and I encountered barely an ounce of fat.

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

I had initially planned on ignoring the tuna steaks: when one has ten racks of ribs, what use is there for healthy fish, right? Wrong. The tuna was cooked to perfection, lightly seared on each side leaving the middle wonderfully juicy. I was grateful everyone else had the same initial idea as me, meaning there were plenty of leftovers for the next day. (Surprisingly it still tasted good straight out of the fridge without reheating.)

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

You’ll be pleased to hear that the best part of the meal was of course the ribs. Cooked on the roadside barbecue, they were so tasty and tender that in fact not one single rib made it back to our villa in the doggy bag; a fact that provoked many a moan the next day.

Bearing in mind that each martini cost IDR110,000 alone, and the fact that we had excesses of food, somehow (with a little help from a Naughty Nuri’s VIP card – I should get me one of those) the bill per head was a mere IDR600,000 (approximately HKD500). We might as well have had another couple of lychee martinis!

Normally when visiting any Asian country, I like to embrace said country’s culture and cuisine, and indeed I frown upon anybody who doesn’t. Yet Naughty Nuri’s has shown a definite exception to this rule; we could not possibly have had a better night anywhere else if we’d tried.


Naughty Nuri’s

Jalan Batubelig 41
Kerobokan Kelod
Kuta
Bali

(Original outlet in Ubud)

Tel: +62 361 847 6722

www.naughtynurisbali.com

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Lantana

15 Aug Lantana Hong Kong

 

 

 

Lantana Hong Kong

When we tire of Hong Kong’s bustling city life, we often crave little holidays to take us away from it all. The beauty of living here means that we are able to escape from the city without even needing to leave the country. On a recent mini ‘holiday’ to Lantau for what we thought would be a comfortable ‘glamping’ trip (trust me, camping in August, whether glam or not, is most certainly not advisable), we were recommended to dine in newly-opened Italian restaurant Lantana on Lower Cheung Sha Beach.

Everyone knows Cheung Sha for The Stoep. I do love The Stoep and keep giving it more chances, yet every time I go, I am without fail disappointed: the service is terrible, the food is average; it’s just the setting that makes it worthwhile. Lantana, a few doors down from there, has the same beautiful setting, yet manages to produce some great food to match.

The menu is limited to salads, pizza and pasta, with only two dessert options. I feel that you can look at a small menu in two ways: either it is too restrictive and thus boring, or, as it is sticking to what it knows best, it is bound to be good. Lantana’s menu falls into the latter category; no one tried the salads, but the pizzas and the pastas did not disappoint.

Lantana Hong Kong

One of the great things about reviewing restaurants is that people feel compelled to let me try their dishes, knowing I need to get a feel for as much of the menu as possible. I therefore was able to try five varieties of pizza – Country, Feta Florentine, Vegetarian, Parma and Pepperoni – all of which were delicious. The base is paper-thin, exactly how I like it, with crispy edges yet enough doughiness to make it still feel a little bit naughty.

Lantana Hong Kong

One of the best was the Florentine: a classic favourite with the bonus addition of feta cheese. Egg on a pizza may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but there is no denying the perfection of this soft, runny egg that completed the already delicious pizza.

Lantana Hong Kong

My all-time favourite pizza is a Parma, made with good quality Parma ham, rocket, Parmesan and in this case juicy cherry tomatoes and soft chunks of garlic. My only complaint is that they could have been a little more generous with the ham.

Lantana Hong Kong

Lantana caters not only to vegetarians, but also to several common intolerances, happily accepting requests for cheese-free pizzas. A vegetarian, cheese-free pizza to me sounds about as exciting as pancakes without maple syrup, yet Lantana made up for the lack of excitement by heavily loading it with red, green and yellow peppers, cherry tomatoes, sundried tomatoes, red onions, artichokes and garlic on a thick, fresh tomato paste.

Lantana Hong Kong

The Vongole pasta was interestingly made not with linguini but with spinach fettuccini. The pasta was fresh, the clams were flavoursome, and the white wine garlic sauce was spot on. However, I was glad to be sharing it, as portion sizes are not for the feeble-stomached.

Lantana Hong Kong

Any of the pasta sauces can also be served with gluten-free pasta, provided you call ahead to ask the chef to buy some for you. The GF version of the vongole was just as delicious and you could barely tell it wasn’t regular pasta.

With plans to return to camp to make s’mores around a barbecue, we passed on the options of tiramisu or panna cotta, although I would be interested to see how well these are executed.

The bill for 16 people, including what seemed like endless supplies of rosé, came to only $250 a head. Aside from being very accommodating to dietary requirements, service left a little to be desired and dishes arrived at completely different times. Service charge isn’t added to the bill so it surprised me that the staff didn’t work harder to earn it. Overall, however, I am definitely a fan of Lantana and will know now to bypass the other restaurants and head straight there for some casual Italian fare in a setting that makes me feel like I’m far, far away.

Lantana

40 Lower Cheung Sha Village
Lantau
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 5465 5511

 

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La Cantoche

13 Aug

 

 

 

 

la cantoche hong kong

Some restaurants open with a bang, shouting out their arrival for all to hear. Others open quietly, safe in the knowledge that people will find them on their own and fall in love. La Cantoche, tucked away on a side street off Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, did the latter and, having only been open for a couple of months, is packed full every night.

David Sung, the restaurant’s French-born owner, never had a background in hospitality or F&B, yet after years in unsatisfying jobs, he dreamed of creating a place of his own, where he could serve his childhood memories in a fun and casual space. This is exactly what La Cantoche is; get to know David and you’ll instantly see how much of his personality has gone into the design and the overall flavour of the place.

la cantoche hong kong

 

The space is lovely, spanning over two small floors, with whitewashed brick walls dotted with the odd bit of graffiti and contrasted with brightly coloured mismatched chairs. Chilled out hip-hop beats are heard while old-school films such as Back to the Future or Ghostbusters are projected onto one of the walls and a foosball table welcomes guests in the entrance. The aim is for diners to feel at home and relaxed in a completely unpretentious environment.

The food isn’t pretentious either; obviously it is French, yet as the name of the restaurant suggests (it translates to ‘canteen’), the food is kept simple and homely.

la cantoche hong kong

Despite protestations that it was a Monday evening and therefore should have been an alcohol-free day, David insisted we try a glass of rosé, which he claims is the best in Hong Kong. I haven’t tried enough to be able to judge if it is the best, but it certainly is delicious: delicate in colour as well as flavour, making it more than easy to quaff.

la cantoche hong kong rice krispies

We began our meal with some ‘Rice Krispies’, one of David’s mother’s recipes. This dish involves crispy puffed rice mixed with minced pork and exciting Vietnamese herbs and spices (David’s mother was born in Vietnam). David’s advice was to scoop a serving into one of the accompanying lettuce leaves, take a bite, wait a couple of seconds and then smile. It was hard to disobey the final command, as this dish was absolutely incredible, packed full of flavours that did indeed instantly make me smile.

la cantoche hong kong

The Nems au chevre (goat’s cheese spring rolls) were also amazing, oozing with molten goat’s cheese yet still, somehow, delicately light…or maybe that’s just what I told myself to ease the guilt of eating deep fried cheese? You’ve got to love a bit of deep-fried cheese!

la cantoche hong kong

Our final starter was a selection of crudités, namely leeks in gribiche sauce, mimosa egg and shredded carrots. Each of these had a distinct flavour, ranging from the slightly sharp carrots in vinaigrette, the beautifully soft and moreish leeks, to the delicately flavoured hard-boiled egg, my favourite of the three. The leeks’ gribiche sauce also served as the perfect dip for the still-warm fresh baguette.

la cantoche hong kong

Moving on to main courses, to keep Food Envy at bay, we also shared a couple of these. The Poisson Papillote, a fillet of barramundi cooked in a tinfoil parcel, was divine. There was little added to it other than soft leeks, cherry tomatoes and capers, so the flavours were all natural and light, leaving a jus that again doubled up as the perfect dip for the bread.

la cantoche hong kong cordon bleu

The rustic Cordon Bleu was also a winner, stuffed with flavoursome ham and melted cheese and then lightly breaded and fried, again without that overly heavy feeling. My attempt to only have half of my share failed due to it being far too delicious to waste!

la cantoche hong kong ratatouille

Each main comes with complimentary side dishes: we had some wholesome and comforting ratatouille as well as three different kinds of potato: homemade mash, homemade chips, and pommes noisettes. Ever had a tater tot? Pommes noisettes are exactly that, but with a fancier name: deep-fried crispy balls of pure potato goodness reminiscent of childhood days gone by.

la cantoche hong kong

It seems David loves his old-school child-friendly food, as the desserts are just the same. A thin, semi-cooked chocolate cake is served not with a scoop of vanilla ice cream as regulation normally requires, but in a puddle of crème Anglaise (English custard). The cake is gooey and perfect, without being too sweet.

la cantoche hong kong

The most incredible dessert is the homemade nougat ice cream with crushed M&Ms. I am not exaggerating when I say that this was heaven on a plate, and again it left a permanent smile on my face from the first mouthful until the last, when I realised there was no more left.

la cantoche hong kong

Prices at La Cantoche match the unpretentious feel of the restaurant, with starters around the $70 marker and mains around $130. It has also jumped on the no-service-charge bandwagon, where guests are encouraged to tip if they appreciate the service. It is impossible not to appreciate the service, as waiters are genuinely friendly and David himself does frequent rounds of the restaurant to make sure all his guests are happy; happiness is precisely the emotion that La Cantoche will instil in you.

La Cantoche
G/F, 5 Wa Lane
227 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2426 0880

 

 

 

 

 

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Chesa

10 Aug

Chesa Hong Kong

I love living in Asia and having the ability to travel to idyllic beaches for long weekends at any time of year. However, being so close to Asia’s paradise does remind me how far away I am from Europe; when living in England, I was lucky enough to be able to escape to Switzerland for a quick ski fix at least every couple of months. Since being here however, I feel light-years away from the cosiness of a ski resort and the warm, comforting Alpine food. Yet the Peninsula’s Chesa might just be the next best thing.

Step into The Peninsula and you feel that long-forgotten elegance of colonial Hong Kong. Step into Chesa and you’re not only stepping back in time, but also travelling 6,000 miles deep into the Alps.

Swiss Restaurant Chesa, which is designed to look like a Swiss chalet complete with dark wood, dim lighting and Alpine paintings and knick-knacks, first opened in 1965 and it is clear that not a great deal has changed since then.

So I had ascertained that the décor was authentic, but what about the food? Would I be filled with the warm, comforting mountain food I had so longed for? Or would it be a cringe-worthy Chinese imitation gone wrong? Think about it; it’s The Peninsula – what do you expect?!

Chesa Hong Kong

We started with a crabmeat pancake with lobster-Armagnac cappuccino. Apparently this is one of the most popular dishes at Chesa and I can completely understand why; the flavours were so delicate, the texture so smooth, made the more so by the delicious lobster sauce that was creamy yet still somehow light. It was a shame we had to share it but I made sure I mopped up every trace of sauce with the dangerously more-ish pretztel-esque bread roll.

Chesa Hong Kong

I couldn’t come to Chesa without eating my bodyweight in cheese, so we opted for the Fondue Montagnarde. Made with Emmental, Appenzeller and Gruyere, with the delicious addition of smoked mountain bacon, this fondue was indulgently rich, creamy and more than filled the gap I had created by my four consecutive daily classes of Circuit25!

Chesa Hong Kong

Luckily we held back from finishing the entire fondue in order to save space for the Sliced veal with mushrooms in a light cream sauce. Again the cream was not too heavy (which was obviously a blessing after the heavy fromage), and the veal was beautifully tender. A healthy serving of rösti was the perfect complement for this already incredible dish.

Chesa Hong Kong

Partly because I was intrigued about what ‘spätzli’ would entail, we also shared a Boneless beef spare rib braised in beer with spätzli. This very simple dish was wonderfully comforting; the beef so tender it barely needed a knife to cut it. It turns out spätzli are a kind of little dumplings that didn’t add a great deal of flavour but definitely made the dish more indulgent (just in case we hadn’t reached our indulgence quota) and even more of a comfort-food dish.

Chesa Hong Kong

To round the meal off, although we were tempted by the chocolate fondue, we listened to our almost-full-to-bursting tummies and opted instead for the Swiss chocolate mousse. Thankfully, after the rest of the meal was outrageously rich, this smooth chocolate mousse was pretty delicate and light, meaning it was near impossible to put my fork down!

Chesa may be geographically a million miles away from the real deal, but experience-wise and food-wise, it is a lot closer than you’d imagine. Obviously prices are a little higher than you would expect to find in the Alps, but that’s to be expected when dining in such a prestigious hotel as The Peninsula.

Chesa
1/F The Peninsula
19-21 Salisbury Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2696 6769

www.peninsula.com

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Brunch at ROKA

9 Aug

 

 

 

 

ROKA Hong Kong brunch

Since Zuma opened in Hong Kong a few years ago, everyone has been waxing lyrical about its weekend brunch. I wholeheartedly concur that it is one of the better brunches in the city, yet every time the bill comes, it leaves a giant hole in my wallet, meaning I will only ever go there for a special occasion, having left a large gap since my last visit.

What about those occasions that aren’t so special? Those times you’re just really craving a feast full of sushi and sashimi and everything else a Japanese-style brunch can bring? For those times, there is ROKA in Pacific Place, which starts at only $298 – a fraction of the price you’d pay at Zuma.

Admittedly ROKA isn’t nearly as fancy as Zuma, yet it doesn’t try to be. It’s inside a shopping mall, but unlike so many restaurants in Hong Kong that ignore this and try to be something they’re not, ROKA offers a casual, informal vibe perfect for a laid-back feast mid-shop. The décor is minimalistic, using a lot of wood, balanced with soft light panels to give it a calming, natural feel.

$298 will get you only food (but a lot of food), $388 also includes unlimited wine, sake, beer and fresh juices, but $598 for the Premium Brunch includes all of the above, plus more food and free-flow Mumm Champagne. Yes, ok, there isn’t much difference between the price of this and Zuma’s brunch, but the fact is that there are options; if you don’t want the free-flow, you aren’t obliged to pay the earth for your sushi.

ROKA Hong Kong

The brunch starts with a sprawling buffet, ranging from soup, to soba noodles, to robatayaki, to sushi, to sashimi and back again, as many times as you like.

Although it may look dodgy, the strange egg, beef and tofu soup was divine and wonderfully hearty, and I adored the miso-glazed grilled fish, which simply melted like butter in the mouth.

ROKA Hong Kong brunch

It seems that a huge focal point of the brunch is on the selection of cold soba noodles, with their array of accompaniments. I added a generous dollop of minced ginger and some spring onions to mine to really shake away the cobwebs from the weekend.

ROKA Hong Kong brunch

The main attraction however is certainly the sushi and sashimi; the fish was incredibly fresh and choices were more creative than the average sushi bar, although my favourite was a rather traditional tempura prawn roll. What’s dangerous about these kinds of brunches is that I insist on trying at least one of everything that I see in front of me; this is exactly what I did with the sushi, meaning that by the time the main courses were served, I already verging on full.

ROKA Hong Kong Brunch

This was only a minor setback, however, as the second I saw the main courses, which we had previously ordered from the robata menu, any hint of fullness evaporated. I’d recommend ordering a different dish each and sharing them between you: a foolproof way of avoiding food envy. We first shared some Hokkaido scallop skewers. These are possibly some of the sexiest scallops I have ever seen, served like lollipops (which is of course how we ate them), sprinkled with shiso and finished with a dollop of wasabi mayonnaise. The texture and taste is utter perfection too.

ROKA Hong Kong brunch

We also shared the 300-day grain fed Australian Black Angus tenderloin, a beautifully tender piece of meat served with pickled vegetables and a rich soy sauce that perfectly enhanced the flavour of the beef.

ROKA Hong Kong brunch

Moving on to desserts, a selection of daily desserts is presented before you on an ice-laden platter. Everything was lovely and fresh, with strong hints of summer. The fresh fruit (even the normally-boring dragon fruit) was gladly welcomed after such a vast amount of food, but it was the oreo trifle (or something along those lines) that really wowed us: layers of crumbly chocolate biscuit interspersed with layers of cream and a sort of panna cotta, topped with caramel pop corn.

Brunch at ROKA is presented with a smile every Sunday from 11.30am to 3pm, providing the ideal respite from a day of hardcore shopping. And if you feel like you’ve gained a few pounds by eating your bodyweight in sushi, then worry not, for shopping is the perfect way to burn them straight off again!

ROKA
Shop 002, LG1
Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3960 5988

www.rokarestaurant.com 

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The Pawn

3 Aug

The Pawn Hong Kong

The Pawn has historically had mixed reviews: “the décor and setting are amazing, but the food doesn’t quite match,” they would say. Well, “they”, you can now eat your words (and The Pawn’s food too) for British chef Anthony Fletcher, trained by Tom Aikens, joined the team last year and has successfully thrown some magic into the mix, creating incredible British food that complements the gorgeous setting.

the pawn hong kong

The setting really is gorgeous, housed inside one of Hong Kong’s few remaining heritage buildings.  The Dining Room on the second floor is lovely and cosy, with rustic wooden tables and chairs, and a spacious balcony overlooking the bustling Johnston Road. It has a terribly British feel to it (said in my best Queen’s English accent), which is as far removed as possible from the busy Wan Chai street below.

the pawn hong kong

While we nibbled on some snacks from The Living Room’s menu, we were recommended to try some Puro sparkling rosé from Movia winery in Slovenia. According to The Pawn’s beautiful and extensive Wine Journal (that’s correct: not list, but journal, complete with postcards, quotes and drawings), Ales Kristancic, the owner of Movia winery, is “making some of the strangest and most beautiful wines on the planet.” This particular sparking wine is stored upside down, so that the sediment collects in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is then opened with what looks not too dissimilar to a crow bar, under water; the sediment escapes into the water and you are left with an incredible sparkling rosé that is 100 percent like no other.

the pawn hong kong

Going back to the snacks, the mini fish and chips are lovely, but the fantastic mini Cumberland sausages served alongside them were even better. These are first poached and then fried in a mixture of Worcester sauce and honey. Trust me, you absolutely have to try these.

the pawn hong kong

The Devils on Horseback (for non-Brits: dates wrapped in streaky bacon) were delicious and strangely reminiscent of a crisp British Christmas.

I would seldom order radishes or olives, but Chef Anthony may have made a convert out of me, as both were amazing and begged me to go back for more.

the pawn hong kong

That wasn’t even the first course! Our actual first course began with six beautiful Essex oysters. Oysters, admittedly, are slightly wasted on me, as I never enjoy them enough to back for seconds. For the real oyster lover, however, this is a good thing, as it meant he was able to go back for seconds… and thirds… and fourths.

the pawn hong kong

The skilfully presented 42-degree Butter Poached Salmon was amazingly light and delicate, with the delicious chunks of pickled beetroot and lemon puree really serving to draw out its deeper flavours.

the pawn hong kong

Again something I would never order is asparagus soup; this one however, with its creamy yet rustic texture, was divine, topped with a quail’s egg and crispy shallots to make a wonderful soothing yet summery dish.

the pawn hong kong

I had my eye on the Ham Hock from the moment I looked at the menu. It was layered with chunky dried apricots and served atop a bed of onion purée and mustard fruits. Its gorgeous texture that fell apart in the mouth matched perfectly with the rustic crusty granary bread.

the pawn hong kong

A Rack of Pork served with rustic apple sauce, roast potatoes and gravy was wonderful, yet even better was the 24-hour Berkshire Pork Belly with broad beans and garden peas. When the pork had been cooking for 24 hours, I knew it would be tender, but didn’t quite anticipate how tender and how full of flavour it would be, made the more so by the sweet rhubarb puree that accompanied it.

the pawn hong kong

The Pan roasted sea bass with thin slivers of pickled fennel served on a bed of olive oil mashed potato with green beans and coriander had an ever so slightly Asian flavour to it and a definite summery freshness to match.

the pawn hong kong

First prize would have to go to the Oxtail Cottage Pie. Designed for two to share, this could happily have served all four of us (given how much other food we had!). The slow-cooked oxtail was more than tender, melting at the slightest touch of a fork and infused with red wine and shallots. The Montgomery cheddar potato topping was creamy enough to complement the meat without stealing its thunder.

the pawn hong kong

Somehow we still had room for dessert, starting with a White chocolate and ginger cheesecake with ginger brittle. The cheesecake itself was light and fluffy, verging on the texture of a mousse. The addition of the ginger drew away from the sickly sweetness that I often find with white chocolate.

the pawn hong kong

Next up, carrot cake served with condensed milk ice cream. Although the cake was good, I was actually more impressed with the ice cream, and might even go as far as to say that I think my own carrot cake might be better. Chef Anthony, I challenge you to a carrot cake-off!

the pawn hong kong

We were all surprised that our favourite of the three desserts was the Melon & Strawberry. This is made with vacuum-compressed watermelon and cantaloupe melon, topped with strawberry sorbet. It tasted like a juicier, healthier version of a watermelon Jolly Rancher. It is then finished with chocolate-mint leaves (think After Eight in leaf version) to give it an added refreshing yet decadent touch.

the pawn hong kong

And then came the cheese; if there is a separate stomach for dessert, I think there is a third stomach for cheese. The Pawn’s cheese is flown in from Neal’s Yard in London. Of the four kinds we tried – Isle of Mull cheddar, Ogleshield, Innes goat’s cheese and Cashel Blue – it was the blue cheese, with its rich, creamy texture, that stole my heart.

The Pawn is not just your stereotypical British restaurant. The design is British, many of the ingredients and the flavours are British, but The Pawn goes so much deeper than just bangers and mash, with prices to match – it isn’t cheap as chips, but, really, what did you expect?!

The Pawn

62 Johnston Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2866 3444

www.thepawn.com.hk 

Have a read of my mini-review of The Pawn on Localiiz. You might find other exciting restaurants on there too!

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