Tag Archives: steak

Enomod

22 Apr

the dim sum diaries hong kong

enomod hong kongI had never really heard the term ‘social dining’ used before, yet, assuming, quite rightly, that it had to do with sharing, I knew it had ‘me’ written all over it. This is precisely the term that brand new restaurant Enomod uses to describe its menu, and therefore precisely the reason I knew I must try it.

enomod hong kong

Enomod, which stands for Enoteca Moderna, is a very cool new space on lower Elgin Street. The idea of ‘social dining’ is inspired by a cultural movement that emerged in 1930s America; this concept is reflected in the décor throughout the entire space, where literally every single detail has been thoroughly considered. A single copper pipe runs from the street-level entrance and through the entire restaurant, ‘carrying’ with it people, water, electricity and, most importantly, wine.

The space is divided into five main areas – bar, deli, cellar, lounge and dining room, each area uniquely decorated and equally inviting. Enomod’s distinctive logo, made up of a plate, a spoon, a glass and a bottle, is either engraved or painted everywhere you look, reminding you of the restaurant’s principal concerns: food and wine, the latter, house wine, served only in carafes, further heightening the casual, social feel of the place.

enomod hong kong

The Mediterranean-inspired menu boasts the freshest ingredients, making it impossible to favour one plate over another. When we asked Ermanno, the owner, and Howard, the manager, to suggest some signature dishes for us to try, they said everything was a signature dish and practically brought us everything on the menu; confident, yes, but justifiably so.

enomod hong kong

The menu is broken up into ‘groceries’ and ‘social dining’, each further categorised into cheeses, cold cuts, and so on. Between four of us gluttons, we sampled no less than 18 dishes; I obviously will not bore you with descriptions of each and every one, but I will tell you that if you’re planning a meal at Enomod, go hungry. In fact, go famished, for there is little on the menu you will not want to taste. My only criticism is that a lot of dishes come at once, which can be somewhat overwhelming.

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

I would recommend nibbling on some cardamom-marinated feta with dried dates to begin with, balancing out the sweetness perhaps with some 12 month-aged Serrano ham, and most definitely the Parma ham and fig pizza; this is not a pizza in the strictest sense of the word, given that it has no tomato and the base is soft and doughy pita bread, yet it will melt in your mouth and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, even if you might wish there was just a touch more fig jam on it…

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

The salmon gravalax with crackers and caper relish is divine, marinated in orange zest to excite the taste buds. Equally delicious are the Spanish paprika sardines. Each little filleted morsel of fish is decorated with a slice of lemon, which, eaten whole, together with the fish, serves to bring out the fresh flavours of the sardine and transport you to the Mediterranean.

enomod hong kong

Having never been the greatest fan, while growing up, of capers, olives or anchovies, a puttanesca, naturally, was never my go-to choice of pasta. Now, however, as I know to appreciate the finer things in life, I adored Enomod’s linguini puttanesca; beautifully al dente and wonderfully flavoursome, I could eat this every day.

enomod hong kong

The ‘Social Dining’ section of the menu is split into four categories – woods, stones, coppers and ceramics, referring to the kind of dish the food is served on. From the ‘stones’ section, the charred saffron chicken with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt was good, but would most definitely lose in a game of trumps to the pistachio-crusted lamb rump. This incredible lamb is cooked at 57 degrees over six hours, resulting in meltingly tender meat that may well leave you speechless. Just make sure you eat the lamb as soon as it’s served, as it is definitely best hot (apply the same rule to the roasted seabass).

enomod hong kong

From the ‘coppers’ section, Enomod’s polpette are pretty special too. These are not meatballs as we know and love them; but we certainly do still love them. This very traditional recipe was passed down from Ermanno’s grandmother and comes served with the creamiest of mashed potato and crunchy pine nuts.

enomod hong kong

Even more delicious, however, and perhaps my favourite (savoury) dish of the night, were the blue mussels in white wine sauce. Just make sure you ask for some fresh-from-the-oven focaccia to soak up every drop of the sauce.

On a second visit a few days later (yes, we liked it that much), we tried the wet-aged rib eye. Whilst some argued that the charred taste was not to their liking, I think this completed the dish, giving it a crisp exterior at the same time as a juicy, pink interior. Rub on some roasted garlic and you’re in heaven.

enomod hong kong

For dessert, Enomod currently offers only two options, yet both are unmissable. The tiramisu is like no other you have ever tasted, spiked with Absinthe and spicy peppercorns, yet still maintaining that comforting creaminess. My favourite was the ricotta cheesecake with pistachio, dark chocolate chips and candied orange peel. The contrast of creamy versus crunchy, sweet versus tart, is to die for and will leave you wanting to lick the adorable jar it is served in clean.

With delicious, fresh produce, good service, quirky décor and reasonable prices (the amount of food we ate would have amounted to around $350 per head!), Enomod definitely has what it takes to be a success. Still in soft opening phase, it is packed every night, so I fear the waiting lists once everyone knows about this cool new spot…

Enomod

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 6065

www.facebook.com/Enomod

 

Gold by Harlan Goldstein

8 Mar

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

 

Although I have not yet had the pleasure of meeting him, I hear Harlan Goldstein is quite a character. He must be to call one of his restaurants Gold and indeed decorate the place entirely in gold! I have always therefore been a little intrigued about Gold by Harlan Goldstein

As I mentioned, Gold is gold: gold ceiling, gold walls, not to mention a huge gold bar in the entrance. Yet it is not gold in a tacky way; everything about it speaks of elegance and class, which you’d down right expect from a one Michelin-starred restaurant, especially at the prices he charges.

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

Our meal began well, with an excellent slow-cooked Italian octopus. The taste from the fennel, black olives and melitzanosalata (a kind of aubergine caponata), as well as the octopus of course, was earthy and light. Unfortunately, however, a little too much dill slightly masked these flavours.

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

From the specials menu, the balik smoked salmon with caviar was even better. Each morsel of salmon was beautifully tender and paired perfectly with the slightly sharp blood orange and sweet chunks of beetroot.

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

According to the menu, the 8oz fillet of beef ‘will melt in your mouth’. It most certainly did. This excellent cut of beef, cooked to medium-rare perfection, was so succulent and flavoursome it needed no form of sauce whatsoever. All it was served with was a whole head of roasted garlic, which could be spread like butter over the beautiful beef.

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

The 10oz Dutch veal chop was somewhat of a disappointment compared to the beef; although the flavour of the milk-fed veal was delicious, it was ever so slightly under-cooked, resulting in a rather chewy consistency. Again it was served with the same roast garlic, which definitely helped redeem it.

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

Sides of creamy spinach with pine nuts and black truffle mash were exceptional, particularly the latter. Remember how delicious I found the mash at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon? I think this one might have trumped it. Imagine the creamiest of mashed potatoes, add a generous sprinkling of black truffle, and seriously, what else do you need in life? (Other than Chocolate.)

gold by harlan goldstein hong kong

For dessert, due to my silly decision of giving up wheat and chocolate for Lent, we opted for a slightly boring and also slightly forgettable choice: Baileys and vanilla gelato. On another occasion, I would be interested to see if Harlan’s warm white chocolate cake truly is the ‘best [I’ve] ever tasted’, as it says on the menu…

Despite our food being very slow to arrive, service was professional and very efficient. Again, this is to be expected from a Michelin-starred restaurant, yet I was impressed by the knowledge of our friendly waitress and her readiness to give us her opinion when asked.

All of the above was washed down with a beautiful bottle of Montepulciano, and amounted to a total of around $2800 for the two of us, including a further glass of wine each on the beautiful terrace. The restaurant’s name alone suggests a pricey bill; add to that Harlan’s fame and a Michelin star, and of course it isn’t going to be cheap. It is, however, rather cheap compared to his extortionately priced “8” dinner – eight courses, eight wines, eight people for a whopping $88,000! Does anyone have $11,000 lying around they’d like to spend on dinner for me?!

Gold by Harlan Goldstein

Level 2, LKF Tower
33 Wyndham Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2869 9986

www.gold-dining.com

Jason Black’s Cookbook Competition – Do You Have What It Takes?

27 Feb

I think you are all aware of how much I truly love food. If I wasn’t eating out all the time visiting as many restaurants as possible to try to give you, my readers, a comprehensive guide to Hong Kong dining, I would be found in the kitchen, putting my love of food to good use and cooking up a feast. Now it is time to see how much you truly love food, and in particular how much you truly love cooking.

jason black cow pig chicken

The wonderful Jason Black, chef behind Shore and my favourite, The Salted Pig, is writing a magnificent cookbook entitled ‘Cow, Pig, Chicken’. It will contain recipes from his two already well-established eateries, as well as an exciting new concept, which will be coming soon.

I am honoured to be working as Jason’s editor on this project and, having seen the recipes, I know this is going to be a pretty phenomenal cookbook.

cow pig chicken jason black hong kong

We need you!

In the final stages of putting the book together, Jason now needs your help! In order to make sure that his recipes are spot on and will work in a home kitchen as opposed to a just a restaurant, Jason needs some able cooks to volunteer as recipe testers.

cow pig chicken jason black hong kong

The prize

The five lucky winners will be provided with the following:

  • Ingredients to test a selection of the recipes in their home kitchen
  • Inclusion in the credits of the book
  • Photos in the book of them testing the recipes (either in their own kitchen or in Jason’s test kitchen)
  • A free copy of the book, with their name on the front cover

How to enter:

All you have to do to enter and stand a chance of being included in Cow, Pig, Chicken is answer the following question:

What makes you think you have what it takes to be one of Jason’s elite recipe testers?

Please send an email with the subject heading ‘Cow, Pig, Chicken’ with your answer to thedimsumdiaries@hotmail.com before Friday 15th March.

Jason and I will handpick the five lucky winners based on the five best answers and contact these winners at the end of March.

Recipe testing will commence after Easter.

Good luck and happy cooking!

This competition is now closed. Thank you for all your excellent responses.

Wild Grass

19 Nov

 

 

wild grass hong kongThe global organic food craze is taking Hong Kong by storm, as more and more restaurants are seeking to provide their customers with nothing but the best quality organic food. Brand new restaurant Wild Grass on Arbuthnot Road is doing exactly this, serving ‘real food the way it should be – fresh ingredients prepared simply’.

As I walked up the beautiful tiled staircase into the adorably decorated restaurant, I already knew I would love it. The scent of aromatherapy candles and orange blossom immediately filled the room as I made my way to the bar to sip on a refreshing Wild & Fresh Cucumber Cocktail – the perfect antidote to a long Monday in the office.

wild grass hong kong

Wild Grass, set up by multi-restaurateur and chef Jean Paul Gauci (with restaurants such as Casa Lisboa, Cococabana and Bistro Manchu under his belt), is not only serving eco-friendly food, but also uses reclaimed, recycled wood from all over the world, giving the whole place a relaxed, cottage-like feel with mis-matching yet gorgeous furniture. The restaurant works with art galleries around Hong Kong, showcasing some unique pieces of art; yet even more unique is the restaurant’s resident artist, who creates his modern paintings while you eat.

The seasonal menu, which varies daily depending on what’s freshly available, follows the ‘farm to table’ concept, using mostly locally sourced, sustainable and 70-80% organic food.

Chef Jean-Paul grew up helping his father prepare bread in his bakery, first in Corsica and then in London, so naturally the bread we were served was delicious, made the more so by the herb butter and goat’s cheese butter, both of which are made in-house.

wild grass hong kongOur first of the starters was finely diced Scottish ocean trout with capers and whiskey sour dressing, topped with perfect quail’s eggs and served with a fresh bread roll. The tender chunks of trout melted beautifully in the mouth, yet for me there was a little too much dill, which overpowered the taste of the fish.

wild grass hong kong

I’m normally not overly fond of kidneys, a sentiment shared around the table, yet these kidneys with bacon, malt vinegar, celeriac purée and onion were delicious; they were wonderfully tender without that overriding offal taste.

wild grass hong kong

My favourite of the starters however, was the baked goat’s cheese on bacon puff pastry with beetroot. The cheese was lovely and creamy, contrasted with the flaky pastry and sweet, juicy beetroot: amazing.

wild grass hong kong

Moving onto the mains, the roasted halibut with fermented garlic came beautifully presented and tasted divine, with perfectly flaky fish and amazing slow-roasted garlic that had become a sweet paste just right for spreading over the fish.

wild grass hong kong

The suckling pig with apple, parsnips and deep mustard had been cooked sous-vide for 16 hours before being tied together and roasted, leaving it exceptionally tender and juicy.  The sweet flavours of apple and thyme were reflective of the cooler autumn days we have finally been blessed with.

wild grass hong kong

As the slow-grilled rump with basil peppercorn relish was served, there were gasps of delight all around the table. Having been cooked on a low heat for six hours, the OBE organic Australian beef was amazingly tender, served atop a bed of thin chips soaked in the beef’s own jus, which were impossible to resist.

wild grass hong kong

Last of the mains was a five-hour stewed organic beef shin topped with steamed goats cheese dumplings. This hearty stew was the ultimate comfort food that instantly made me smile…

wild grass hong kong

…A smile that continued throughout the farm cheese plate, laden with Gouda, Bleu d’Auverge, Brie and Liverot, sprinkled with prunes, apricots, raisins and figs. I don’t think I could live without cheese.

wild grass hong kong

We had been complaining about being full even before the cheese was served; yet upon laying eyes on the three desserts, our second stomachs appeared out of nowhere. Firstly the crème brûlée tart, a crumbly layer of biscuit topped with soft buttery custard and a thick layer of burnt sugar, was a divine modern take on the traditional version we all know and love.

wild grass hong kong

Following this came a stewed apple turnover with vanilla cream. Hints of cinnamon amidst the sweet, delicately crispy pastry were lovely, whilst I would have much preferred it to be served with a scoop of thick vanilla ice cream.

wild grass hong kong

Finally, my favourite of the three desserts, was a hot rhubarb oatmeal crumble with dairy frozen cream. Although the latter was a little confusing, this dessert offered generous helpings of both crumble and fruit that put it up there with some of the best crumbles I have ever had.

Service at Wild Grass is not yet perfect, but it has only been open a couple of weeks. Prices for individual main courses hover around the $250 mark, yet you can get a 3-course set lunch for $220 or a 3-course set dinner for $390 (where you can choose any three dishes off the menu), which, for such delicious organic food brought straight from the farm to your table, is an absolute bargain, I’d say. Wild Grass, you will most definitely be seeing more of me.

Wild Grass

1/F, 4-8 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2810 1189

www.wildgrass.hk

The Boathouse

18 Sep the boathouse stanley hong kong

the boathouse stanley hong kong

Part of the lure to Hong Kong is that there are so many beautiful places to visit on weekends that barely require leaving the city. A recent weekend ‘staycation’ at The Stanley Oriental Hotel led me to finally try Café Deco Group’s The Boathouse.

The moment we arrived in Stanley on a Friday night after work, we immediately felt as though we were holidaying at a European seaside town. The Boathouse was consistent with this feeling; as we were led up to the roof on the third storey of this beautiful marine-themed building, all the worries and stresses from a long week at work melted away, allowing us to fully believe we were on holiday, even if just a brief one.

the boathouse hong kong

As we ogled the gorgeous, peaceful bay beneath us, we were served a selection of starters. While the seared scallops with celeriac purée, pancetta and semi-dried tomatoes had a wonderful texture, they were unfortunately somewhat lacking in flavour. The smoked salmon and crab rolls with a cherry tomato and apple salad however were utterly perfect in both texture and flavour. The crostini with roasted pumpkin, feta and Parma ham weren’t anything to write home about; again they lacked flavour and the bread was a little soggier than I’d have liked. But really, the absolute star of the starters were the black mussels in white wine garlic cream sauce; the mussels themselves were wonderfully fresh and meaty, bathed in a delicious broth that I could not refrain from using as a dip for the crusty bread.

the boathouse stanley hong kong

Onto the mains, the grilled T-bone steak was delicious and tender, served with feta cheese rosti and crunchy asparagus. My side of the T-bone was unfortunately a little on the fatty side, but, once the fat was out of the way, the juiciness and rosemary-infused flavour of the meat made up for it.

the boathouse stanley hong kong

The king prawn jambalaya with chorizo, tomatoes and coriander was comfort food at its very best, with a distinct spicy kick that made it even better. My only request would be for more chorizo, as it was so tasty that we both battled over the last remaining pieces!

the boathouse stanley hong kong

For dessert, it would have been a sin not to have the ‘Death by chocolate’. This warm chocolate fondant passed the fork test with flying colours, oozing delicious molten chocolate at the gentlest prod and pairing wonderfully with the sweet vanilla ice cream.

the boathouse stanley hong kong

We also shared the Boathouse coupe, the restaurant’s version of an ice cream sundae, with chocolate and vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, fresh berries and macarons. Unfortunately said macarons were rather dry, suggesting they were far from fresh and certainly not homemade. The highlight, for me, was really the chocolate ice cream, containing exciting hidden chunks of smooth dark chocolate.

the boathouse stanley hong kong

Service at The Boathouse is very good, particularly if you’re one of the restaurant’s many regular customers. The staff are welcoming and friendly, always ready to give their valuable advice about the menu. Prices aren’t low, but neither are they extortionate, with starters between $100 and $300 and main courses ranging from $200 to $300. The food isn’t out-of-this-world amazing, but it is wholesome, down to earth and pretty tasty, served in a setting that will instantly transport you to the beach holiday of your dreams; what more could you wish for?

The Boathouse

88 Stanley Main Street
Stanley
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2813 4467

www.cafedecogroup.com

Blue Butcher

5 Jul

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

Blue Butcher is probably the most talked about restaurant in town right now. Ever since I heard about it opening its discreet doors between Press Room and Classified on Hollywood Road, I have been desperate to get there. However, the mixed reviews and accounts of terrible service and over-priced food did make me somewhat reluctant to go until its problems had been fixed. Without being able to wait any longer, I gave it a month and put it to the test.

When I took my seat at the head of the high marble table and opened my menu, the excitement grew and I was like a small child at Christmas; I hadn’t managed to get away for the long weekend, and yet I felt so far removed from Hong Kong, as if I were on a little culinary holiday for the night. The décor is reminiscent of somewhere in the Meatpacking District of New York, with high, dark ceilings, polished wooden floor, very grand leather furniture and a busy-looking open kitchen. All this sounds rather pretentious, yet there is also a rustic edge to it that made me absolutely love it.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

We started the night with some cocktails from the Prohibition-inspired menu. Having seen the boys drinking beer from a jar, the girls decided we too wanted to drink from a jar, so we had a round of Maddy’s Apple Pie Moonshines, which were not only served in a jar, but also in a brown paper bag, true to the speakeasy theme. This moonshine is laced with apple and cinnamon to create a wonderfully refreshing cocktail that was dangerously easy to drink.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

For starters, as everything on the menu looked incredible, we asked the waiter to help us select a variety to share. Starting with my least favourite, the Belgian Endive with orange, candied bacon, stilton cheese and sweet truffle dressing was fine, but nothing to write home about. I tried to scavenge all the little pieces of stilton, as those were what made it.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

The special of the day was a mozzarella and tomato salad, lovingly drizzled with balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with parsley in place of the standard basil, giving it something a little different.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

The Organic smoked beetroot with feta, cucumber and pistachio vinaigrette was amazingly comforting: soft thin chunks of beetroot topped with crumbly feta and chopped nuts.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

I loved the Norwegian salmon tartare, made with incredibly fresh chunks of salmon, infused with a subtle horseradish kick, and served on a bed of soft, buttery avocado.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

My absolute favourite of the starters however, was the Pig’s head terrine accompanied by a caramelised onion salad and a rather measly dab of mustard that really brought out the rich flavours of the meat. I was sadly one of the last people to receive the dish, so I definitely feel the need to order it again and eat double my fair share.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

Our very helpful waiter had informed us that the special of the day was a giant 32oz rib-eye steak from Australia’s Mann River Farm that would feed 8-10 people. As we were nine, including one pescatarian, this sounded like the perfect option. Before I go on to explain how incredible the steak was however, a note on Blue Butcher’s steaks: it is (so far) the only restaurant in Hong Kong to have a walk-in pink salt brick-lined dry ageing room, meaning the meat is hung to dry in-house to maintain all the juices and the natural flavour.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

I’ll tell you what, this dry-ageing malarkey definitely works; the meat was so incredibly tender, juicy and simply packed full of flavour. The only complaint, from more than one person, was that there was no wholegrain mustard to accompany it.

The sides change daily, always including some greens and some form of potato. For our big group we ordered at least one (and in some cases three) of each of the five sides on offer. We were most excited about the roasted fingerling potatoes, but it was actually the bacon mac n’ cheese that had us all drooling. When considering whether I preferred the bacon or the mac, a very wise friend commented that the inability to compare them is in fact a good thing, as she would otherwise find it heartbreaking to have to choose between them. Well said.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

The line-caught seabass was a beautiful sight, served in a cast-iron pan. The fish was perfectly flaky, bathed in a comforting broth with succulent prawns and little chunks of toasted bread. It’s good to know that Blue Butcher’s chef Danny Chaney can execute non-meat dishes just as well as he can the meat ones.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

For dessert, we accidentally ordered three, regardless of the fact that we were bursting at the seams. The Granny Smith apple crumble with walnut and port ice cream was served in a cute little mug. The actual crumble part was just as crumbly (for want of a better word) as it should be, yet the apple was too thinly sliced for my liking; I like my apple crumble chunky.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

The Eton mess would never be my choice of dessert, yet this one wasn’t too sweet or laden with far too much cream. The basil sorbet completed it. Blue Butcher Hong Kong

The most amazing of the three desserts, however, was definitely the Chocolate bread and butter pudding, served with a scoop of rum banana ice cream. This is a dish we used to get about twice a year at school and I have never since seen it on any menu; can you imagine my excitement?! Thankfully it was just as good as I had hoped: smooth, creamy and comfortingly warm. I would never have thought to pair it with rum banana ice cream, yet it could not have matched more perfectly.

Blue Butcher Hong Kong

For more than our nightly quota of food, plus cocktails and wine, we each paid only $610, which I think is totally reasonable for such delicious food. Perhaps it was because it was a public holiday and the restaurant was far from full, but the service we received was outstanding. Those who have previously given it a bad review based on service, I beg you to give it another chance; after all, everyone deserves a second chance. I plan on giving Blue Butcher many, many more chances to wow me.

Blue Butcher

108 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2613 9286

www.bluebutcher.com

Why not have a read of my mini-review of Blue Butcher on Localiiz? You might find some interesting restaurants on there too!

Tango

20 Apr

Having spent numerous holidays in Uruguay and Argentina and having eaten a ridiculous number of their delicious cows, Tango had a lot to live up to in my eyes. I had been recommended it by several people and was eager to try it to see how it compared to the real deal. My expectations were not very high as there is no way that a restaurant overlooking Wyndham Street could even come close to a restaurant on a cobbled street in San Telmo, Buenos Aires. No chance. But we can’t have it all, can we? We live in HK, not BA, so I told myself to forget about the location and let Tango become my Argentina for the night.

 It definitely made a great attempt at doing this. We walked in to a typically Argentine wine cellar: the walls in the reception area were stacked floor to ceiling with a huge array of wine bottles – mostly all Argentinean with a few Italians and Spanish thrown into the mix, staying true to the Argentine roots. Bare brick walls and wooden floors give it that rustic look common to many Argentine parrilla restaurants. Not to mention the parrilla itself, which is always the centre of attraction at any Argentinean meat restaurant and is very much the case at Tango: a huge wood-fire barbeque where they usually cook literally everything they serve you – meat, vegetables, cheese, you name it, the Argentines can barbeque it.

 As usual, I had a sneaky peek at the menu online (which, I might add, is actually quite difficult to track down. I had to Google ‘Dining Concepts HK’ after a search of ‘Tango restaurant HK’ only came up with the usual suspects of review forums). The menu made me immediately nostalgic and excited and of course I started to plan my meal. I insisted on ordering a few starters to share and didn’t really give my fellow diners much of a choice in the matter. We had octopus ceviche, which was supposed to be spicy but definitely wasn’t. It was good….but I’ve had better. Peruvian ceviche is the best there is, so finding anything comparable is never easy. We also had a selection of empanadas, one with hand-cut beef, a second with goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, and a third with sweet corn. I LOVE empanadas. Little parcels of delight. These were great, but again… I’ve definitely had better. Most countries in South America have their own version of empanadas, and I would say that Argentinean ones are up there on my ‘best empanadas’ list. Although not always, they are usually baked rather than fried, and the pastry is so light and delicate that it simply melts in your mouth. These ones were fried and a little heavy on the pastry. 60 bucks an empanada also seems to me an absurd price. The chorizo we ordered was very tasty but there was nowhere near enough of it: there were four small pieces. Luckily there were only four of us eating, so we each had a piece but it left us wanting more, especially as there was still so much delicious chimichurri sauce left over. The last (but by no means least) of our starters was calamari with a green salad and lemon aioli. This. Was. A-mazing. Some people can get squid so wrong and cook it for too long so that you might as well be eating a wellington boot, but not Tango’s head chef, Argentine Ignacio Elizondo. The squid here is so tender that you barely even need to chew it, and that lemon aioli… wow.

 For mains, although there are lots of yummy looking dishes on the menu which aren’t cut from a cow, such as pasta, barbequed trout, chicken or lamb, we thought “when in Rome..” and went straight for the steak. After all those starters I wasn’t particularly hungry, but I had been to fitness training earlier in the evening and worked myself extra hard to make room for a big, juicy steak, so I ignored my nearly-full stomach and ordered a fillet steak, medium-rare, or, as I used to order in Uruguayan restaurants, “quemado afuera, jugoso adentro”. The steak (imported from Argentina of course) was incredible. As with the calamari, it was so tender that it barely needed chewing at all. I think the steak knives they provide you with are made for giants. The knife might have been bigger than my head! All it needed was a gentle push and it slid right through the tender steak. I would not want to get into an argument with anyone in this restaurant!

 In Argentina, steaks are generally not served in any kind of sauce. As delicious as black pepper sauce is on a steak, Argentine steak is so delicious on its own that it just doesn’t need it. It is almost considered an insult to smother the steak in sauce. So what you are served at Tango is a selection of six accompanying ‘salsas’: Criolla (which our waiter struggled to pronounce, so quickly mumbled over the word three times. It’s a combination of onions, olives and peppers), Chimichurri (the most typical accompaniment to Argentine steaks, consisting of olive oil, vinegar, chilli, garlic, onion, oregano, thyme, pepper and bay leaves – delicious), spicy tomato, Dijon mustard, whole-grain mustard and horseradish. The steak really was so amazing that it could have been eaten on its own without a problem, but these sauces served to enhance the flavour.

 The menu contains a range of ‘guarniciones’ – side dishes – which are big enough to share. We ordered roasted peppers marinated in garlic and olive oil (always one of my favourites), marinated eggplant escabeche and a very pleasing ‘rustic’ potato and spring onion mash. Rustic because the potatoes were still wearing their skin when they were mashed. There are several other choices including oven roasted sweet potatoes with rosemary which I would like to try next time. I’m certain that there will be a next time.

 The meal was teamed with a delicious Malbec from Argentina’s best wine-growing region, Mendoza. This fruity, velvety wine was the perfect companion to our beautiful steaks.

I know there is usually a separate compartment in my stomach for dessert, but on this occasion it was nowhere to be found. I actually couldn’t even finish my steak which upset me ever so slightly. Had there been room for dessert, however, I would have devoured the dulce de leche crepe, or the warm apple empanada. Or both. You can even buy a jar of dulce de leche to take home… I’m struggling to remember why I didn’t do this.

 I guess I must make a comment about the service. Even though we were bang smack in the centre of the restaurant, we were pretty much ignored by the waiters. Had we been in a rush, it would have bothered us, but I actually think the slow service added to the authenticity of the experience and made me feel like I could well have been in Argentina.

 It goes without saying that the prices here are ludicrously expensive compared to the real deal. On first sight I was outraged, as we could get incredible steaks in Uruguay which were sometimes cheaper than a loaf of bread (albeit a rather pricey loaf of bread!) If we consider, however, that all the meat, wine and even the chef are imported from Argentina (which is a jolly long way away!) it’s not as awful as it could be. Dinner for four, including two bottles of wine, came to around $800 per person. A little bit punchy but to be expected, and, for an almost authentic Argentinean experience on our very own Wyndham Street, definitely worth it. It seems that they do a great lunch set too (2 courses for $98) so I have every intention of trying that out very soon.

Tango
1/F 77 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 25255808

Date visited: Monday 4th April 2011

The Press Room

20 Apr

I am somewhat embarrassed to admit that, having lived in Hong Kong a total of almost nine years, it is only on my most recent stint here that I ventured for the first time into Sheung Wan. I’m a bit lazy with new places so I usually like to stick to what I know. Back in September I walked past The Press Room which I thought looked right up my street, yet it has taken me this long to actually get myself down there. I went for brunch on a Saturday with a group of friends and am definitely glad that I did. From the moment you walk in, there’s a really great atmosphere. It used to be part of a newspaper printing building, so has high ceilings and a great use of space. It’s has a sort of French style New York feel to it with wood panelled walls mounted with paintings, tiled floors and obviously a huuuuge blackboard detailing the daily specials – a modern take on a French brasserie.

 First thing I did when I was notified of our brunch venue was obviously check out the menu. (I was very pleased to see that The Press Room does actually have it’s own website. Well done Press Room.) So I narrowed it down to steak sandwich, Eggs Benedict, Croque Madame or The Press Room Burger, depending how hungry I felt on the day. Come brunch-day, I had wisely not gone out the night before and managed to get up at 9.30 to walk up to The Peak. Every time I do this I ask myself why. It’s a ridiculously steep climb and I always wonder why I didn’t just get the peak tram up. Nevertheless, got to the top, very sweaty but felt great and instantly thought “yup, burger it is then.”

 Although I knew I was going for the burger, I obviously still looked at the menu and considered my options. Steak sandwich was still up there… But I followed my instincts and went for the burger (medium-rare) with bacon and cheese. The burger is actually not in the ‘brunch’ section of the menu which is what most of my fellow diners went for. Evidently the meals from outside the ‘brunch’ area of the menu are perhaps about twice the size! Corned beef hash = tiny and apparently not incredible. Smoked salmon bagel = self-explanatory but, again, small. Macaroni au gratin = delicious and cooked in an individual iron pot, but not quite what I’d call a hearty portion. The burger, however…well I couldn’t even get my teeth around it! I usually take the top part of the bread off anyway as too much bread disagrees with my stomach, but, unless I chose to take out my rolling-pin (which I obviously always carry in my handbag) and squish it down to bite-size, removing the top bread was absolutely necessary this time! Jolly good burger though: the meat was cooked to perfection and the chips were spectacular! Ask for the garlic mayo…deeeelish. It tastes like a real homemade Aioli. Be careful though as it’s rather pungent. The taste stayed with me for hours afterwards and even made me feel a little queasy. Hmm… maybe avoid the  garlic mayo if you’re on a hot date.

 Not much of an oyster person myself, but The Press Room prides itself on its oysters and crustaceans so I’m guessing they’re rather tasty if you’re that way inclined.

 Service was not five-star but we were tucked away right in the corner so can’t expect them to get round corners quite that fast.

 All in all a very pleasant experience, made the more so of course by wonderful company. I will add here, however, that although when it comes to bars and clubs, you can say that it’s the people that make it; this is absolutely not the case when it comes to restaurants. For me, it’s always the food.

The Press Room

G/F 108 Hollywood Road

Tel: +852 2525 3444

Date visited: Saturday 19th February 2011

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