Tag Archives: pork belly

Restoration

4 Dec

4_oh

restoration hong kong

Magnolia does it, everyone loves it, so it’s about time someone else did it too. I’m talking about delicious, soul-hugging Creole cuisine, and Wyndham Street newbie Restoration is doing it in style.

This New Orleans inspired eatery sits where Skylark once was, bringing with it a gorgeous interior consisting of a host of rustic furnishings and distressed wood salvaged from Hurricane Katrina. Chef and owner Jack Carson, formerly associated with Dining Concepts’ Bistecca, Blue Smoke and BLT Steak, hails from the Deep South and wanted to bring a slice of his hometown to Hong Kong.

restoration hong kong

We began our feast by sharing a couple of starters, family style. The crabmeat cheesecake was light and fluffy, though perhaps more of a quiche than a cheesecake. At first bite I couldn’t detect any hint of crabmeat, yet the Creole meunière sauce later brought this out.

restoration hong kong

One bite of the braised pork belly, however, and the cheesecake was long forgotten. These ever so crisp chunks of pork were bursting with flavour and dangerously moreish. The sweet and rich BBQ sauce was the cherry on top and we made sure we kept the two pots of this to smear on the rest of our food.

restoration hong kong

Although I was surprised there were no ribs on the main menu, there were other typical dishes from the Deep South, including blackened catfish (which I didn’t try but was apparently was rather tasty) and a very generous portion of fried chicken. There is not a thing I could fault about this dish: the chicken was succulent, without a trace of dryness, and the batter was wonderfully crispy without being too oily.

restoration hong kong

The pepper duck, marinated in five-spice and served with a pepper jelly, was divine. The meat from both the breast and the leg was cooked to medium-rare perfection and full of that delicious, gamey flavour.

restoration hong kong

My choice was the braised NZ lamb, a beautifully cooked lamb shank that fell apart at the slightest prod. Tender root vegetables and a rich lamb demi-glace make this the ideal dish for these miserable drizzly days we’ve been suffering of late.

restoration hong kong

As we had only had two starters between four of us, we went a little overboard on the sides: a never-ending bucket of seriously addictive rosemary matchstick fries, a pot of mouth-numbing spicy fire-roasted peppers, a pot of hush puppies (balls of deep-fried corn bread) and an incredible Creole jambalaya. Needless to say it was impossible to reach the bottom of any of these dishes.

restoration hong kong

As our first choice of wine wasn’t available, we were given free dessert – now that’s good service! We simply couldn’t resist trying the ‘ridiculousness’, a chunky chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich, drizzled in chocolate sauce. The name and description suggested it would be ridiculously good, but actually we were a little underwhelmed, as the cookie was a little too hard; with an almost half-cooked gooey chocolate chip cookie this truly would be ridiculously amazing.

restoration hong kong

The pumpkin pie was a special and isn’t normally on the menu, so, again, we obviously had to try it. The base was perfectly crunchy and the sweet pumpkin custard deliciously creamy. Maybe Restoration should consider putting this on the regular menu.

Service was excellent throughout the meal (obviously made the more so by the free desserts!). What’s even better is that service charge isn’t added to the bill, meaning we were actually more willing to tip. When it comes to prices, no, Restoration is not cheap, as without dessert we paid around $500 each, including a bottle of wine and a tip. However, we must remember its prime location, and I can guarantee that even if your bill gives you a bit of a shock, you will be filled to the brim with delicious, real, soul-warming food.

Restoration

1/F, 63 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2536 0183

www.restoration.hk

Spasso

16 Nov

spasso hong kong

DiVino Group is obviously known for its Wyndham Street restaurants DiVino and Goccia, and of course newbie DiVino Patio in Wan Chai (I’m still dreaming about that burrata…), yet Spasso, one of the group’s two restaurants on the ‘dark side’, has received much less love.

All this is changing, however, as Puglian Chef Antonio Totaro has joined the scene, bringing with him a vast book of experience from working at the highest Michelin-rated restaurant in Southern Italy, Don Alfonso 1890, to cooking for Hollywood stars such as Danny DeVito, Mike Tyson and Monica Bellucci, to working as a private chef for billionaires in the Maldives, Monaco, Moscow and Geneva.

spasso hong kong

Spasso spans 8,500 square feet in Harbour City’s Ocean Centre, including a lovely terrace overlooking the harbour. Inside, the décor is elegant and modern, using clean white shades set against marble and wood. I couldn’t help but notice the fresh fish station where diners can choose their fish before it is carved up in front of them to make gorgeously fresh carpaccio. This is something Chef Antonio insisted on bringing to Spasso, given his Puglian roots.

spasso hong kon

In order to taste as many things as possible on the menu, we were served small tasting portions, so if you’re looking at these photos thinking these dishes would never fill you up, worry not, for the real versions are double the size!

spasso hong kong

The first dish in our feast was a slow-cooked premium Lofeten Island cod fish, served with potatoes, capers and black olives, on a bed of crisp rocket leaves. The flakes of fish were so flavoursome and tender, and due to their rather saline quality, it would be easy to mistake them with Spanish-style bacalao. The contrast of the rich, salty olives and slightly bitter rocket paired with the lovely cod made for an excellent start to the meal.

Making the most of Chef Antonio’s inherent love of seafood, next up was a tuna loin marinated with ginger, lemon and orange zest, served with citrus and peppermint-infused pea purée and roasted beetroot. The wonderful contrasting textures, radiant colours and incredibly fresh flavours completely explain why this is one of the chef’s signature dishes.

spasso hong kong

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the tortelli with burrata cheese. The handmade pasta was the perfect, slightly al dente consistency, bursting full of creamy burrata. A blob of fresh stracciatella di bufala on top was heavenly, whilst a simple drizzle of pesto and cherry tomato sauce served to bring out the delicate flavours. I could have easily gobbled up a whole plate of this.

spasso hong kong

I’m normally a little frightened of sea urchin, yet the chef’s signature sea urchin risotto with Sicilian red prawns and Sicilian orange was divine. It had just the right level of creaminess and the carnaroli rice had the perfect bite to it, topped with a generous lump of melt-in-the-mouth sea urchin and tender little prawns hidden amongst the hearty grains of rice. Flavour-wise, however, it was a little on the bland side, yet nothing that a sprinkling of salt couldn’t fix.

spasso hong kong

The crispy Berkshire breeds Kurobuta slow-roasted pork belly was lovely and comforting. Each bite was beautifully tender, as the juicy meat and fat became one. Served alongside the pork was a sweet pumpkin purée and cannellini beans, all finished with a delicate espresso glaze and a coffee bean to enhance the flavour.

spasso hong kong

Our selection of mini-desserts was a feast for both the eyes and that beloved second stomach: chocolate ice cream cones, tiramisu, chocolate and raspberry tarts, and baked beignets. Despite the fact that we had four desserts each, they were all wonderfully light, particularly the tiramisu, which was strangely yet pleasantly lacking the lady fingers and was only delicately dusted with chocolate and coffee. My absolute favourite, however, was the beignet, which was lovely and crispy on the outside and filled to the brim with delicious vanilla-infused crème pastissière: heavenly.

Prices at Spasso are slightly steeper than the group’s other ventures, with starters from $128 and mains between $168 and $450. Personally I would pick a casual dinner at DiVino Patio over Spasso, yet if a day of shopping in Harbour City leaves you craving some scrumptious Italian food with true and fresh Mediterranean flavours, where you can while away a few hours gazing at our beautiful harbour, then Spasso is definitely worth a try.

Spasso

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre
Harbour City
17 Canton Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2730 8027

www.divinogroup.com/restaurants/spasso/about-us/

The Salted Pig

21 Sep

the salted pig hong kong

The pig has always been one of my favourite animals, mainly when it’s served on a plate in any of its delicious forms. I wouldn’t say I disliked se sa me, but when I heard it had closed and would be replaced by a restaurant specialising in PIG, do you think I was upset? Most definitely not. In fact, quite the opposite: when I heard about The Salted Pig’s imminent opening, I was like a child (or myself) on Christmas Eve, excitedly calculating just how much pig I could physically eat.

The Salted Pig is brought to us by the team behind highly successful Shore Restaurant and Bar, complete with its wonderful chef Jason Black; so he’s not only a specialist in cow, but pig too…it makes me wonder how exciting he could make chicken…

the salted pig hong kong

The space is entirely transformed from its se sa me days; it is a casual, down to earth eatery with bare wooden tables, simple wooden chairs and creative hanging lights. Above a row of tables in the centre of the room, all sorts of knick-knacks, pots and pans hang precariously.

The menu reflects the décor; there is not an air of fancy fine dining where you’re paying top dollar for a measly crumb that happens to be beautifully presented. Instead, the majority of the dishes are for sharing, family style, and are certainly hearty portions.

the salted pig hong kong

Our ‘oink-fest’, as Chef Jason likes to call it, began with a Pre-appetizer charcuterie platter, consisting of five kinds of cold cuts, pork terrine, pork rillettes, scotch eggs and piccalilli. I was particularly impressed by the quality of the cold cuts, the smoothness of the rillettes and the sheer perfection of the homemade scotch eggs.

the salted pig hong kong

To follow came a dish of gorgeous bacon-wrapped scallops with broad bean, pea and mint ‘mash’, with cider dressing. The scallops were only lightly seared, giving them the most perfect, firm yet never rubbery texture. Whilst I loved how the scallop and the bacon went together, my only suggestion is that the bacon could perhaps have been just a touch crispier, to add a deeper contrast in texture to the buttery scallop and creamy ‘mash’.

the salted pig hong kong

A green bean, broad bean and sweet pea salad with baby lettuce hearts, feta and warm bacon dressing came next. This was summer in a bowl. The sharp crunch of the lettuce and radicchio paired perfectly with the creamy feta, sweet veggies and salty bacon.

the salted pig hong kong

Moving on to the mains, we shared three between the four of us, as two are designed as sharing plates. The “Rub n Tickle” belly, having been cooked sous-vide, was packed full of flavour and incredibly juicy. Obviously it was a fatty piece of meat, but that’s what pork belly is all about, especially when the pork and fat are beautifully cooked so that they both melt into one. This came served with a lovely potato and egg salad, coleslaw, and amazingly crunchy crackling, alongside an adorable cute mini Le Creuset pot of special sauce.

the salted pig hong kong

From the accurately named ‘Porker Feast’ section of the menu, we shared The Rack, an incredible mouth-wateringly tasty and succulently tender slow cooked pork loin rack.  Served alongside roasted carrots, onions and fennel, with a jug of creamy mustard sauce, this was indeed a feast on its own.

the salted pig hong kong

A sage and mustard-crusted pork loin steak with white mushroom and marsala cream sauce was incredible: faultlessly juicy with a lovely flavoursome crust. I particularly loved the fact that it was served with roasted Granny Smith apples, which added a tartness to complement the sweetness of the sauce and the saltiness of the pork.

the salted pig hong kong

Although we didn’t really need sides, we tried the classic mac ‘n cheese (the ultimate comfort food), the pancetta braised creamy Brussels sprouts (would definitely add magic to any Christmas meal), and, just to be healthy, the cherry tomato salad with basil (wonderfully refreshing and light).

the salted pig hong kong

After all this, we tried not one, not two, but all five desserts from the blackboard menu: Chocolate and citrus tart, Pistachio and white chocolate mousse, Raspberry marshmallow with rhubarb compote, Banana and fudge Eton mess, and Carrot cake. I would imagine it would be too much to ask to suggest you save space for all five, but I strongly recommend at least saving space for the latter three, and particularly the incredible carrot cake, made with olive oil and topped with a carrot crisp; I think it actually rivals my own carrot cake…

Prices for this ‘oink-fest’ will surprise you. In a good way. For an abundant three-course meal with wine (served by the carafe), you won’t be paying much more than $350-$400 a head. The Salted Pig is not only doing something completely different to anywhere else in Hong Kong, but it is doing it well, with excellent service, for very reasonable prices. I’m very excited about how close it is to my office…but it does make me slightly fear for my waistline!

The Salted Pig

2/F, The L Place
139 Queen’s Road Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2870 2323

P.S. since writing the original review, I have already been back for lunch (can you tell I loved it?) and wowee what a lunch. Go for the ‘Porker Set Lunch’ and definitely get the shredded pork knuckle sandwich – it’s seriously worth the food coma it will send you into afterwards…

Do you know what makes The Salted Pig even better? They have kindly offered a 10% DISCOUNT to all my loyal readers – simply mention The Dim Sum Diaries when you ask for your bill and you’ll get 10% off until 31st October 2012. Enjoy your oink-fest, you porker!

The Pawn

3 Aug

The Pawn Hong Kong

The Pawn has historically had mixed reviews: “the décor and setting are amazing, but the food doesn’t quite match,” they would say. Well, “they”, you can now eat your words (and The Pawn’s food too) for British chef Anthony Fletcher, trained by Tom Aikens, joined the team last year and has successfully thrown some magic into the mix, creating incredible British food that complements the gorgeous setting.

the pawn hong kong

The setting really is gorgeous, housed inside one of Hong Kong’s few remaining heritage buildings.  The Dining Room on the second floor is lovely and cosy, with rustic wooden tables and chairs, and a spacious balcony overlooking the bustling Johnston Road. It has a terribly British feel to it (said in my best Queen’s English accent), which is as far removed as possible from the busy Wan Chai street below.

the pawn hong kong

While we nibbled on some snacks from The Living Room’s menu, we were recommended to try some Puro sparkling rosé from Movia winery in Slovenia. According to The Pawn’s beautiful and extensive Wine Journal (that’s correct: not list, but journal, complete with postcards, quotes and drawings), Ales Kristancic, the owner of Movia winery, is “making some of the strangest and most beautiful wines on the planet.” This particular sparking wine is stored upside down, so that the sediment collects in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is then opened with what looks not too dissimilar to a crow bar, under water; the sediment escapes into the water and you are left with an incredible sparkling rosé that is 100 percent like no other.

the pawn hong kong

Going back to the snacks, the mini fish and chips are lovely, but the fantastic mini Cumberland sausages served alongside them were even better. These are first poached and then fried in a mixture of Worcester sauce and honey. Trust me, you absolutely have to try these.

the pawn hong kong

The Devils on Horseback (for non-Brits: dates wrapped in streaky bacon) were delicious and strangely reminiscent of a crisp British Christmas.

I would seldom order radishes or olives, but Chef Anthony may have made a convert out of me, as both were amazing and begged me to go back for more.

the pawn hong kong

That wasn’t even the first course! Our actual first course began with six beautiful Essex oysters. Oysters, admittedly, are slightly wasted on me, as I never enjoy them enough to back for seconds. For the real oyster lover, however, this is a good thing, as it meant he was able to go back for seconds… and thirds… and fourths.

the pawn hong kong

The skilfully presented 42-degree Butter Poached Salmon was amazingly light and delicate, with the delicious chunks of pickled beetroot and lemon puree really serving to draw out its deeper flavours.

the pawn hong kong

Again something I would never order is asparagus soup; this one however, with its creamy yet rustic texture, was divine, topped with a quail’s egg and crispy shallots to make a wonderful soothing yet summery dish.

the pawn hong kong

I had my eye on the Ham Hock from the moment I looked at the menu. It was layered with chunky dried apricots and served atop a bed of onion purée and mustard fruits. Its gorgeous texture that fell apart in the mouth matched perfectly with the rustic crusty granary bread.

the pawn hong kong

A Rack of Pork served with rustic apple sauce, roast potatoes and gravy was wonderful, yet even better was the 24-hour Berkshire Pork Belly with broad beans and garden peas. When the pork had been cooking for 24 hours, I knew it would be tender, but didn’t quite anticipate how tender and how full of flavour it would be, made the more so by the sweet rhubarb puree that accompanied it.

the pawn hong kong

The Pan roasted sea bass with thin slivers of pickled fennel served on a bed of olive oil mashed potato with green beans and coriander had an ever so slightly Asian flavour to it and a definite summery freshness to match.

the pawn hong kong

First prize would have to go to the Oxtail Cottage Pie. Designed for two to share, this could happily have served all four of us (given how much other food we had!). The slow-cooked oxtail was more than tender, melting at the slightest touch of a fork and infused with red wine and shallots. The Montgomery cheddar potato topping was creamy enough to complement the meat without stealing its thunder.

the pawn hong kong

Somehow we still had room for dessert, starting with a White chocolate and ginger cheesecake with ginger brittle. The cheesecake itself was light and fluffy, verging on the texture of a mousse. The addition of the ginger drew away from the sickly sweetness that I often find with white chocolate.

the pawn hong kong

Next up, carrot cake served with condensed milk ice cream. Although the cake was good, I was actually more impressed with the ice cream, and might even go as far as to say that I think my own carrot cake might be better. Chef Anthony, I challenge you to a carrot cake-off!

the pawn hong kong

We were all surprised that our favourite of the three desserts was the Melon & Strawberry. This is made with vacuum-compressed watermelon and cantaloupe melon, topped with strawberry sorbet. It tasted like a juicier, healthier version of a watermelon Jolly Rancher. It is then finished with chocolate-mint leaves (think After Eight in leaf version) to give it an added refreshing yet decadent touch.

the pawn hong kong

And then came the cheese; if there is a separate stomach for dessert, I think there is a third stomach for cheese. The Pawn’s cheese is flown in from Neal’s Yard in London. Of the four kinds we tried – Isle of Mull cheddar, Ogleshield, Innes goat’s cheese and Cashel Blue – it was the blue cheese, with its rich, creamy texture, that stole my heart.

The Pawn is not just your stereotypical British restaurant. The design is British, many of the ingredients and the flavours are British, but The Pawn goes so much deeper than just bangers and mash, with prices to match – it isn’t cheap as chips, but, really, what did you expect?!

The Pawn

62 Johnston Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2866 3444

www.thepawn.com.hk 

Have a read of my mini-review of The Pawn on Localiiz. You might find other exciting restaurants on there too!

Harrington’s

19 Apr

With its vast array of restaurants serving every cuisine under the sun, the one thing that Hong Kong is missing is a lovely pub in which to enjoy a long casual lunch or a drink and some snacks at a place that reminds us of home. Many have tried to recreate the gastropub feel, but failed miserably. Until Harrington’s came along.

When choosing somewhere for lunch on Easter Sunday, I decided it would be very fitting to try Harrington’s and see how pathetic its attempt of being a gastropub was. However, pathetic it certainly was not. The large space is amazing, offering a long bar facing the entrance and a spacious dining area with comfy seats. Had I not known I was in Lan Kwai Fong, I could just as easily have been in an upscale gastropub somewhere in the countryside of England. Even before the food arrived, I knew I would like this place.

Just as in Castello Concepts’ other ventures, the menu at Harrington’s is enormous, meaning that unless you have narrowed it down to what sort of food you are after, you may well take a good half an hour to decide what to eat! While you’re browsing the never-ending menu, however, try the Crusty Garlic and Parmesan Loaf. Along with chocolate, I also gave up bread for Lent, meaning this beauty of a soft, garlic-filled, Parmesan-crusted loaf was even more enjoyable, especially dipped in the delicious pesto it comes with.

Devilled Whitebait

Following this, we shared the Devilled whitebait. Described by a fellow diner as ‘whitebait on steroids’, these were not your regular whitebait: they were huge (for whitebait at least) and deliciously meaty. For me, they could have done with a touch more seasoning to make them perfect.

Cracklin' Pork Belly Skewers

The Cracklin’ Pork Belly Skewers were incredible; beautifully tender meat with deliciously salty (if a little bit chewy) crackling, dipped in hickory smoked barbecue sauce: amazing.

Baked Brie in Puff Pastry

Not realising quite how large it would be, we also shared the Baked Brie in Puff Pastry. I absolutely adore cheese and when it’s baked to oozing point, there are few things I love more. The fact that it was baked in puff pastry made it even more amazing, as I have never seen anything like it before. It was perfectly complemented by a wild berry compote, although I don’t think there was quite enough of this.

Roast Chicken

The roast of the day was roast chicken served with roast potatoes and vegetables. Although a small portion compared to the rest, the chicken was perfectly cooked, bathed in a rich gravy. The only complaint was that it was a little fiddly to cut the meat out of the wing and other bones.

Crispy Skin Pesto Chicken

The Crispy Skin Pesto Chicken was also delicious, sitting on a bed of fresh peas and green beans. The chicken breast was wonderfully tender and remained nice and juicy.

Old Fashioned Fish and Chips

I often avoid ordering fish and chips in restaurants for fear that there will be more batter than fish. The Old Fashioned Fish and Chips at Harrington’s, however, were only lightly dusted in beer batter and the flaky white fish was very generously meaty.

Steak and Guinness Pie

Star of the show, however was the Steak and Guinness Pie. It was so beautifully presented that I almost didn’t want to cut it open. I’m very glad that I eventually did though, as it tasted utterly beautiful too. The chunks of steak were wonderfully tender, the pastry perfectly flaky and the green pea mash deliciously comforting. The last pie I ate before this was one of those nasty ones at the Sevens; this one puts those Sevens Pies to shame.

Toblerone Filo Parcels

Just because I think it’s almost rude not to have dessert when trying a new restaurant, we shared the Toblerone Filo Parcels. These little bite-sized parcels of delight were amazing, especially as I had suffered without chocolate for over 40 days! In the same way as the starters are definitely designed for sharing, I’m not sure I could have coped with a whole dessert to myself. Maybe that was just because of the unnecessarily vast quantity of food we had already consumed!

The prices at Harrington’s aren’t terrible: we paid just under $400 a head for faaaar too much food. Service isn’t awful either: the waiters have a sense of humour and actually care about their job. For all the times when I want a simple yet deliciously hearty plate of food and want to feel like I’m not quite so far from a cosy British gastropub, I will definitely be frequenting Harrington’s. And that’s a promise.

Harrington’s

1/F Ho Lee Commercial Building
17 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2522 1823

Date visited: Sunday 8th April 2012

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