Archive | July, 2013

Chef Studio by Eddy

22 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

chef studio by eddy hkNothing beats a good private kitchen, where you can spend hours over a lovely meal that has been lovingly prepared just for you in a homely setting away from the crowds. Chef Studio by Eddy, tucked away in an industrial building in Aberdeen, is one shining example of an excellent private kitchen.

chef studio by eddy hong kongFrom the moment we arrived, I was instantly impressed as the lovely Chef Eddy Leung was there to personally greet us and guide us to our table. Certificates, photos and medals line one wall, behind traditional birdcages and candles, giving the room a warm, homely feel to it and removing any hint that this was once an industrial space. It is in fact such a lovely space, that on the night we were there, a couple was getting married!

chef studio by eddy hong kongEddy is a truly genuine person who cares about nothing more than seeing his customers leave with a smile as big as his. His lovely personality comes through in his cooking, which he insists is always ‘real’ food with ‘real’ flavours. Most, if not all, of the herbs used to create these real flavours are grown on the restaurant’s balcony, again giving it that home-cooked, unassuming air. The seven to eight course set menu changes on a monthly basis, depending what’s in season.

chef studio by eddy hong kong

Ours began with what we thought would be quite a humble, simple dish: scrambled egg with smoked salmon and caviar. This was not your average scrambled egg, however. Cooked in a bain-marie, it was the smoothest, creamiest egg you could ever imagine and paired perfectly with the delicate smoked salmon and salty caviar. If I was this amazed by such a simple dish, I knew I would only continue to be amazed by what was to come.

chef studio by eddy hong kong

Indeed, the following dish of pigeon consommé, served in an adorable teacup, was equally as impressive. The rich broth had been slowly maturing in flavour over two days through a rather complicated cooking process, resulting in a heavenly, deeply comforting dish unlike any consommé I have ever tasted. Goji berries, barley and small chunks of pigeon meat were an added bonus to give it some texture.

chef studio by eddy hong kongPerhaps the best dish of the night was the lobster with rice rolls. The chunks of lobster were perfectly buoyant, generously doused in a wonderfully creamy sauce. What I loved most about it was the addition of soft, fresh cheung fun (rice rolls), adding an unexpected yet lovely Asian touch.

chef studio by eddy hong kong

As if to tease us, a glass pot containing whole truffles was then placed in front of us, before Eddy himself returned to the table to grate said truffle over a bowl of creamy risotto. This dish is not always included in the set menu, yet, knowing how truly divine it is, Eddy insists on sharing it with as many diners as possible, even if it means sharing a portion between two. The rice was wonderfully al dente and heavenly creamy, generously covered in large chunks of incredible truffle. It was certainly decadent enough for us not to need our own portion, even if I was sad when it ended!

chef studio by eddy hong kongAnother of my favourite dishes was the duck breast with vermicelli. The gorgeously tender duck was first cooked sous-vide, before being pan-fried, resulting in juicy, delicious meat that melted in the mouth. One drop of sesame oil was enough to give the vermicelli beneath it a slight Asian touch, while the buttery cubes of foie gras took it to a whole other level.

chef studio by eddy hong kong

To cleanse the palate after such a rich dish came a roselle flower sorbet – light, refreshing and did exactly what it was meant to do, before the last savoury dish of the night: Wagyu beef with roast potatoes. I wouldn’t go as far as to say it was tough, yet it was not as amazingly tender as we had anticipated it would be. Nevertheless, the flavours were spot on and the roast potatoes were a perfect balance of crispy and fluffy.

chef studio by eddy hong kong

Dessert was milk pudding topped with mango served in a sweet little glass jar. This could not have been more of a perfect dessert to finish off the perfect meal. It was refreshingly light and fluffy after so many courses, yet still had depth and plenty of flavour.

Dinner at Chef Studio by Eddy costs $780 with free corkage and no service charge. If you’re impressed by the food (which you will be) Eddy prefers you to buy one of his recipe books, of which all the profits go to building water pumps in some of the poorest areas of China. Whilst Chef Studio may be more expensive than some private kitchens, I can assure you it is 100% worth it. Eddy told us himself “I like to cook with my feelings, with my heart,” and this is evident in every single bite. I will most definitely be back.

Chef Studio by Eddy

Room 5B, Kwai Bo Industrial Building
40 Wong Chuk Hang Road
Aberdeen
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3104 4664

Numero 15

19 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

Numero 15

Having not been to Mesa 15 on Hollywood Road since it was merely a baby, I was intrigued to walk past recently and see that its name had changed to Numero 15. That isn’t all that has changed, however; knowing that the city is still suffering from acute tapas fever, the team behind Mesa 15, including Michelin-starred executive chef Alejandro Sánchez (good first name!), decided to give the restaurant a complete facelift to become less fine dining and more casual tapas bar. If fine dining is what you’re after, however, then don’t fret – Mesa 15 has only moved to LKF.

Numero 15 Hong KongThe space has been completely transformed and now showcases plain wooden tables and stools juxtaposed against bright, powerful murals by Hong Kong-based graphic designer Ronan Leung plastered across the walls. The upstairs is even more casual, with rustic wooden benches for relaxed communal dinners or private events.

As for the menu, it now features simple classic and modern interpretations of tapas dishes, perfect for sharing over a few glasses of refreshing sangria.

Numero 15 Hong KongThe meal started on a high note with a serving of chorizo croquetas. These were bigger than the average tapas restaurant’s offering and were simply bursting with flavour. They had the right level of crispness on the outside, giving way to incredibly creamy, salty goodness inside. They were in fact possibly some of the best croquetas I have found in Hong Kong to date.

Numero 15 Hong Kong

Numero 15 Hong Kong

Whilst the prawn skewers wrapped in pancetta were not my favourite, given that the pancetta could have been a little crispier, the ox tongue skewers were amazing. Not realising I was a fan of ox tongue, I couldn’t believe how divinely tender each piece was, drizzled in a rich spicy sauce to make them even better. Thankfully there were a few around the table too scared to try tongue, so I gladly ate their share.

Numero 15 Hong KongNumero 15 Hong KongAlthough the batter on the calamari was thicker than I normally like, it was nevertheless still light and fluffy and the squid was cooked to perfection, without a hint of chewiness. The deep fried prawns also had the perfect texture and I loved the wasabi mayo drizzled on top.

Numero 15 Hong KongMy absolute favourite dish of the day was the scallop carpaccio with crispy shallots and ‘jamon bites’. The scallops were unbelievably fresh, simply melting in the mouth. Drizzled in pesto and served with crunchy pine nuts and croutons to add contrasting textures to excite the palate, this dish was absolutely divine.

Numero 15 Hong KongThe slow-cooked Iberico pork belly buns with kimchi mayo and pickled cucumber don’t fall into the classic tapas category, yet regardless of this, even Alejandro says they are one of his favourite dishes on the menu. The light, fluffy, almost Chinese-style bun encases wonderfully tender, juicy meat that works well against the crunchy cucumber.

Numero 15 Hong KongNot only has the city gone mad with tapas fever, but the craze over mini burgers is also still very much apparent. Numero 15’s mini Wagyu beef burgers with melted mahon cheese and mustard mayo, although again not strictly tapas, are deliciously juicy, whilst the almost sweet bun and mustard kick add a little depth that makes these difficult to stop eating.

Numero 15 Hong KongAfter a small break from the meaty options with a plate of simple yet delicious sautéed mushrooms with baby asparagus, the last of the savoury tapas was AFC – Alejandro’s Fried Chicken. To make these perfectly crispy and succulent fried chicken pieces, Alejandro uses a secret recipe adapted from one of his grandmothers’ recipes.

Numero 15 Hong KongNumero 15 Hong KongMoving on to dessert, the homemade cheese cake with strawberry and red wine marmalade was far too creamy and silky to be remotely healthy, but who cares?! The 70% cacao chocolate mousse with caramelised walnuts, however, won the dessert contest hands down. Although it looked more homemade than worthy of a restaurant, it was undeniably light and smooth and I loved the crunchy walnuts, which genuinely enhanced the flavour and overall eating experience.

Service at Numero 15 was efficient and prices are much more reasonable in comparison to its fine dining sister, with dishes ranging from $30 to $129. It is a fun, lively place that fulfils its wish of being a casual-chic restaurant with excellent food designed for sharing. Despite trying so many items on the menu, there are still others that are calling out my name, so I will most definitely be back!

Numero 15

15 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2363 0881

Metropolitain

16 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

metropolitain hong kongAs predicted in my little food crawl of Sai Ying Pun (read it here), the area is continuing to expand, with more and more restaurants beginning to see the draw, particularly given the near-completion of the Centre Street escalator. French Creations, the group behind much loved Pastis, Le Boudoir and other typically French creations, has jumped on the bandwagon with the recent opening of Metropolitain on High Street.

With the slogan ‘let us transport you to a happy place’, Metropolitain is based around the theme of the Paris Métro, with wrought iron arches and giant maps of Paris adorning the walls. The tables and chairs spilling out onto the awning-covered terrace instantly remind you of a bustling Parisian bistro where friends will linger over a glass of rosé or three.

metropolitain hong kong

Inside the restaurant, marble topped tables line one side of the room, whilst on the other, a long bar with metal stools looks over an open kitchen, led by the friendliest Frenchman you could ever meet, Chef Frank Lebiez. On the night we went, all tables were reserved, yet we were more than happy to sit at the bar and ogle all the food being prepared in front of us.

metropolitain hong kong

Unable to decide what not to order, as the whole menu looked delicious, we asked Frank to offer his suggestions for the best dishes on the menu, the first of which was a traditional salmon tartar. Frank says he perfected this recipe years ago and it has never changed since. It is light, well-seasoned and bursting with flavour, due to the finely chopped gherkins that added a welcome tang.

metropolitain hong kong

The warm goat’s cheese salad with lavender dressing was utter perfection. Goat’s cheese has got to be one of the best things in the world; served oozingly warm on crusty bread with lightly-dressed salad leaves, it is even better. I have eaten this exact dish in a bistro in Paris; I closed my eyes and for a second I was back there.

metropolitain hong kong

Who says you can only have two starters between two people? Frank advised us we could have a third, if we had only a small portion; so a small portion of homemade foie gras terrine is exactly what we had. The terrine was beautifully smooth and intensely rich, at which point the sweet brioche toast and apricot, prune and raisin chutney came into play to create a heavenly, dangerously moreish treat.

metropolitain hong kong

Moving on to main courses, the braised lamb shank with olive oil mashed potato was as heavenly as it sounds. The meat simply fell off the bone, melting happily in the mouth, and the mash was so tasty and creamy it must have been bad for us.

metropolitain hong kong

Surprisingly however, although I might not have initially picked it over the duck magret or the fillet of beef, the pan-fried seabass fillet was even more delicious. Every mouthful of perfectly cooked fish, complete with a dollop of sweet celeriac puree, sauce vierge and diced vegetables was light, summery and truly comforting.

metropolitain hong kong

 

metropolitain hong kong

Usually at this stage of the meal I am far too full to contemplate a whole dessert to myself. However, unable to decide between the tarte tatin and the chocolate fondant, we of course had to savour both. The tarte tatin was exceptional, with the perfect balance of flaky pastry and soft, slightly tart apples. The chocolate fondant meanwhile passed the ooze test with flying colours, where in fact there was more goo than cake, instantly bringing a smile to both of our faces. I might even go as far as saying that this is the best chocolate fondant in Hong Kong.

Service was exceptional from start to finish, something you wouldn’t even expect of a true French bistro. The total bill for two of us including an excellent bottle of 2009 Bordeaux came to around $1200. We left Metropolitain after a lovely evening, full to the brim of delicious comfort food and already planning our next visit to make sure we are one day able to try every single item on the menu…except perhaps the snails…

Metropolitain

G/F, 46 High Street
Sai Ying Pun
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 6271 6102

www.french-creations.com/metropolitain

Terrazza at Galaxy Macau

11 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

terrazza galaxy macauIt always amazes me how easy it is to get to Macau, yet how insanely different it is to Hong Kong once you get there. A recent trip across the water took me to the gigantic, glitzy Galaxy Macau for the first time, to try out its signature Italian restaurant, Terrazza.

terrazza galaxy macau

Much like all of Macau’s big hotels, nothing is done in halves at the Galaxy; everything is big, everything is bold and everything is intentionally exaggerated. The same can be said for Terrazza; as you enter, you feel a million miles from the Galaxy’s shiny casino, as if you have been transported to an elegant restaurant somewhere on the Mediterranean coast. Soft shades of bronze and deep reds give the space a warm, inviting feel, enhanced by dim lighting and elegant, modern chandeliers. Attention is naturally drawn to the semi-open kitchen at the back of the room, where diners can watch the chefs hard at work through a big glass window.

The team is led by Chef Gleb Snegin, who has previously worked at many Michellin-starred Italian restaurants in Europe and Asia. He does not focus on one specific region of Italy, but takes inspiration from the entire country, using only the finest seasonal ingredients to create delicious yet unfussy Italian fare, which he insists he wants to be “beautiful in its simplicity”.

terrazza galaxy macau

After unavoidably gorging on the delicious freshly baked breads on offer, we were each presented with a slice of Trentino pizza. This white-based pizza, laden with taleggio, mozzarella, broccoli, zucchini, spinach and speck, was insanely good, whilst somehow remaining light and summery. Knowing there were still four courses to go, I refrained from reaching for a second slice.

terrazza galaxy macau

The crispy veal roll served with vegetable caponata was heavenly. Beneath the crispy outer layer, was wonderfully tender meat, which contrasted well with the slightly al dente vegetables, all brought together by a drizzle of sweet and sour honey mustard dressing.

terraza galaxy macau

One of Chef Gleb’s favourite dishes is the spaghetti chitarra, and quite rightly so. Here, slightly square spaghetti is effortlessly presented with pine nuts, bottarga, burrata, dill and saffron. Alone, these seemed like very simple ingredients, yet together they exemplified the perfect, comforting Italian (specifically Sicilian in this case) dish.

terrazza galaxy macau

Given the choice between black cod and rack of lamb, I chose the latter, and was served a perfectly pink, incredibly juicy, and most importantly wonderfully tasty herb-crusted rack of lamb that simply melted in the mouth. Not only were the colours on the plate beautiful to look at, but also worked together to create what was without a doubt my favourite dish of the night.

terrazza galaxy macauBeing a chocoholic and usually leaning heavily towards any chocolate dessert on the menu, the idea of Chef Gleb’s Giardino – a herb sponge with white melon ice cream, sage mint macaron and white chocolate sauce – filled me with intrigue, yet didn’t sound utterly convincing. I was, however, taken completely by surprise; the herb sponge was light, fluffy and wonderfully summery, enhanced by the deep, sweet flavour of the white melon ice cream. Picture a beautiful garden on a warm summer’s day – if you could put a flavour to that garden, this would be it.

Service at Terrazza is excellent and prices, for an Italian restaurant of this calibre, aren’t too outrageous, with starters around MOP70-200 and main courses mostly under MOP300. It is definitely somewhere worth visiting, whether the night ends with a ferry back to HK or a good night’s sleep in one of the Galaxy’s gigantic, comfortable beds.

Terrazza

201, 2/F, Galaxy Macau
Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença
Cotai
Macau

Tel: +853 8883 2221

www.galaxymacau.com

Eastside Tavern

8 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

eastside tavern hong kong

Shore Hospitality is on a roll at the moment. Not long after contracting tapas fever with the opening of Pico, the group has now brought us Eastside Tavern, a New York style gastropub and sports bar where patrons can ‘eat, drink [and] play’.

eastside tavern hong kong

Eastside Tavern is in fact located in the same building as Pico, with an open front overlooking busy Mody Road. It is a huge space, seating up to 120 diners looking for a casual meal or happy hour drinks (the bar prides itself on stocking 18 craft-style beers from around the world). The décor resembles a lofty warehouse, with bare wooden tables, high ceilings and raw, unfinished touches. At the back of the space is a games’ room complete with electronic dart boards, a pool table and a soon-to-come foosball table; perfect for boys who will always be boys.

The menu is…shall we say….not exactly light. It ranges from pizzas to burgers to homemade pies, to perhaps the odd salad here and there. It is man food. It is American food. It is true comfort food.

eastside tavern hong kong

We began with the spiced cracklin’ pork belly – incredibly tender cubes of satisfyingly crispy pig, generously smeared in Chef Sammy Flores’ homemade hickory-smoked barbecue sauce, giving the perfect balance between sweet and salty.

eastside tavern hong kong

Next up, the crab cakes served with homemade roast garlic aioli were also delicious, packing a bountiful amount of fresh crabmeat, without all the unnecessary additions that are usually included to bulk them up.

eastside tavern hong kong

The Serrano, fig and Persian feta salad, apparently one of Sammy’s favourites, was light and refreshing, ideal for these hot summer days. The sweet figs were incredibly ripe, perfectly contrasting against the super salty yet wonderfully soft Serrano ham and chunks of feta.

eastside tavern hong kongObviously any good American bar can and should be judged on its burger, and I think EST’s burger would definitely pass the test of a good American bar. The patty was cooked to juicy perfection, topped with gherkins, melted cheese and tomatoes, encased in a soft, fluffy (perhaps a tad gigantic) bun, which altogether carried a smoky flavour guaranteed to satiate any intense burger craving. To make it even better, a tower of hand-cut wedges perched temptingly beside it. For some reason I always feel that chips that still carry their skin are more healthy than those that don’t; yes this is obviously complete nonsense, but please just humour me a little!

eastside tavern hong kong

Following manager Jose’s recommendation, we saved space for a slice of black forest pizza (and took the rest home in a doggy bag, of course!). The base was neither too thin nor too thick and was loaded with wild mushrooms, spinach, pine nuts and shaved Parmesan, resulting in an almost healthy, wonderfully earthy-flavoured pizza.

eastside tavern hong kong

eastside tavern hong kong

In true New York style fashion, Eastside Tavern prides itself on its desserts. There isn’t currently a dessert menu per se, as it varies daily from one classic to another, but it seems to be a case of ‘ask and you shall receive’ – within reason. We tried the daily dessert of baked NY cheesecake, served with vanilla bean ice cream and red berry compote. It was light and fluffy, yet a little too sweet for me. The banoffee pie had perfect biscuity base and the right balance of banana, cream and toffee, yet, contrary to the cheesecake, it actually could have been a little sweeter!

Prices at Eastside Tavern hover around the $100 mark for starters, and $150-200 mark for mains. It is a fun space, with good service and a great atmosphere, where one can while away a few hours eating and drinking oneself into a comfortable food coma.

Shore Hospitality’s mission to make its mark in TST does not stop at Pico and Eastside Tavern… HK fave The Salted Pig will soon be sharing its piggy love with Kowlooners as it is set to open a second location in Knutsford Terrace this summer. What else can this group do?

Eastside Tavern

Shop 29, G/F, Empire Centre
68 Mody Road
Tsim Sha Tsui East
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2367 8770

eastsidetavern.com.hk

Cuca, Bali

2 Jul

cuca bali

* One of the most rewarding things about having a blog is the steady flow of emails I receive from my readers, whether it be to recommend a favourite restaurant, ask for recommendations, or – my favourite kind of email – one from a restaurateur who would love me to try their restaurant. Just as I was planning a trip to Bali for a half marathon, in pops an email from a yet-to-open Bali-based restaurant called Cuca.

Everything was set to be finished prior to our visit to Bali, so plans were in place to visit Cuca the night after the race for the perfect celebration. However, as Cuca’s owners Kevin and Virginia have learnt, you can’t believe deadlines that construction workers on a tropical island promise you! Instead of going to the restaurant, we were therefore kindly invited to Kevin and Virginia’s beautiful home to taste the dishes that will be on the menu.

cuca bali

Kevin Cherkas, who has previously worked at Daniel, El Bulli and other high-end restaurants, including ones at various Shangri-La hotels, wanted to move away from fine dining to a more casual concept, whilst still ensuring the intensity, attention to detail and of course flavour of a fine dining establishment. Cuca’s menu is therefore kept very simple, split into cocktails, tapas and desserts. Although the dishes are more western than Indonesian, every dish and every cocktail is made using only ingredients that can be found in Indonesia; if the ingredient is imported, they simply will not use it. The same applies to wine, meaning the wine list is very small; after all it doesn’t exactly fit under the ‘cocktails, tapas, desserts’ concept!

cuca bali

We began our evening with a ‘Sun-gria’ (as opposed to a ‘Moon-gria’, their white wine version), which immediately impressed us. Rather than using ice cubes and chopped fruit as in a regular sangria, the ice cubes are in fact made of fresh fruit juice. As the ice begins to melt, you will therefore begin to notice a stronger hint of watermelon or pineapple, for example, exploding through the fruity, summery drink.

cuca bali

Once at the table, our meal began with a bowl of warm edamame, sprinkled with Bali sea salt (there’s even a touching story about how they source that!), Szechuan pepper, citrus zest and chilli flakes. I love edamame at the best of times and these certainly did not disappoint.

cuca bali

Alongside these, came pan con tomate, a plate of crisp, thinly sliced, rustic bread served with aioli and tomato chutney. Both dips were delicious and homely, setting the scene for what was to come.

cuca bali

A beautifully presented chilled watermelon salad followed this. With juicy, fresh watermelon, crisp radish, seaweed, sesame and coriander, each bite delivered the perfect combination of varying textures and flavours to create a healthy yet deliciously moreish dish.

cuca bali

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the BBQ octopus, served with Asian gazpacho, sliced apple, caramelised cauliflower and sweet corn. Having been par-boiled before barbecuing, the octopus was incredibly tender, far from the rubbery texture so often associated with grilled octopus. The accompanying flavours worked well together to enhance the taste of the wonderful seafood.

cuca bali

A plate of gambas a la plancha came next. This was a very simple dish of grilled tiger prawns sprinkled in Bali sea salt; they were so utterly delicious and fresh that they needed nothing else.

cuca bali

The last of the tapas was crispy fried chicken. Taking inspiration from the super unhealthy fried chicken we all know and love, Kevin has created his very own version that tastes just as good (if not better) yet doesn’t feel greasy or unhealthy in the slightest. The lightly battered chicken, coated in black sesame seeds, has the perfect level of crunch and is served alongside red cabbage, sesame dust and lemon basil leaves, which somehow combine on the palate to resemble fresh coleslaw.

cuca bali

Our dessert of the night, the Cocoa 8, was inspired by one of my favourite chocolates – the After Eight. Warm dark chocolate mousse provided a bed for homemade fresh mint ice cream and cocoa croutons, creating a perfect balance of textures and comforting flavours; close your eyes and it is indeed as if you are eating an After Eight. Apparently to create the croutons, a chocolate cake is baked, cut into cubes and then dehydrated – who’d have thought of that!

cuca bali

Cuca doesn’t stop at merely a restaurant; Kevin also offers ‘tasting classes’ to teach excited foodies which flavours go together and why. They also sell their Cuca Salts, each meddled with different herbs and spices to create the perfect seasoning for all kinds of meats and vegetables.

Although we didn’t have the pleasure of seeing the beautiful finished restaurant described to us, we were honoured to be able to be Cuca’s first customers and taste the delicious, creative and exquisite cocktails, tapas and desserts that will soon be served. All being well, Cuca is set to open on 23rd July; I’m already trying to think of a valid reason to go back as soon as possible to see the finished product!

Cuca

Jalan Yoga Perkanthi
Jimbaran
Denpasar, Bali
Indonesia

Tel: +62 821 8999 1977

www.cucaflavor.com

* Having not seen the restaurant nor experienced the service, I wasn’t able to give Cuca a rating. Based on the food and beverages that we tasted however, all I can say is that there is so far nothing at all that I could fault; if service and ambiance at Cuca is consistent with this, then there is no reason why I wouldn’t give it a perfect ‘oooooh’ rating!

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 3,872 other followers