Tag Archives: elgin street

Enomod

22 Apr

the dim sum diaries hong kong

enomod hong kongI had never really heard the term ‘social dining’ used before, yet, assuming, quite rightly, that it had to do with sharing, I knew it had ‘me’ written all over it. This is precisely the term that brand new restaurant Enomod uses to describe its menu, and therefore precisely the reason I knew I must try it.

enomod hong kong

Enomod, which stands for Enoteca Moderna, is a very cool new space on lower Elgin Street. The idea of ‘social dining’ is inspired by a cultural movement that emerged in 1930s America; this concept is reflected in the décor throughout the entire space, where literally every single detail has been thoroughly considered. A single copper pipe runs from the street-level entrance and through the entire restaurant, ‘carrying’ with it people, water, electricity and, most importantly, wine.

The space is divided into five main areas – bar, deli, cellar, lounge and dining room, each area uniquely decorated and equally inviting. Enomod’s distinctive logo, made up of a plate, a spoon, a glass and a bottle, is either engraved or painted everywhere you look, reminding you of the restaurant’s principal concerns: food and wine, the latter, house wine, served only in carafes, further heightening the casual, social feel of the place.

enomod hong kong

The Mediterranean-inspired menu boasts the freshest ingredients, making it impossible to favour one plate over another. When we asked Ermanno, the owner, and Howard, the manager, to suggest some signature dishes for us to try, they said everything was a signature dish and practically brought us everything on the menu; confident, yes, but justifiably so.

enomod hong kong

The menu is broken up into ‘groceries’ and ‘social dining’, each further categorised into cheeses, cold cuts, and so on. Between four of us gluttons, we sampled no less than 18 dishes; I obviously will not bore you with descriptions of each and every one, but I will tell you that if you’re planning a meal at Enomod, go hungry. In fact, go famished, for there is little on the menu you will not want to taste. My only criticism is that a lot of dishes come at once, which can be somewhat overwhelming.

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

I would recommend nibbling on some cardamom-marinated feta with dried dates to begin with, balancing out the sweetness perhaps with some 12 month-aged Serrano ham, and most definitely the Parma ham and fig pizza; this is not a pizza in the strictest sense of the word, given that it has no tomato and the base is soft and doughy pita bread, yet it will melt in your mouth and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, even if you might wish there was just a touch more fig jam on it…

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

The salmon gravalax with crackers and caper relish is divine, marinated in orange zest to excite the taste buds. Equally delicious are the Spanish paprika sardines. Each little filleted morsel of fish is decorated with a slice of lemon, which, eaten whole, together with the fish, serves to bring out the fresh flavours of the sardine and transport you to the Mediterranean.

enomod hong kong

Having never been the greatest fan, while growing up, of capers, olives or anchovies, a puttanesca, naturally, was never my go-to choice of pasta. Now, however, as I know to appreciate the finer things in life, I adored Enomod’s linguini puttanesca; beautifully al dente and wonderfully flavoursome, I could eat this every day.

enomod hong kong

The ‘Social Dining’ section of the menu is split into four categories – woods, stones, coppers and ceramics, referring to the kind of dish the food is served on. From the ‘stones’ section, the charred saffron chicken with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt was good, but would most definitely lose in a game of trumps to the pistachio-crusted lamb rump. This incredible lamb is cooked at 57 degrees over six hours, resulting in meltingly tender meat that may well leave you speechless. Just make sure you eat the lamb as soon as it’s served, as it is definitely best hot (apply the same rule to the roasted seabass).

enomod hong kong

From the ‘coppers’ section, Enomod’s polpette are pretty special too. These are not meatballs as we know and love them; but we certainly do still love them. This very traditional recipe was passed down from Ermanno’s grandmother and comes served with the creamiest of mashed potato and crunchy pine nuts.

enomod hong kong

Even more delicious, however, and perhaps my favourite (savoury) dish of the night, were the blue mussels in white wine sauce. Just make sure you ask for some fresh-from-the-oven focaccia to soak up every drop of the sauce.

On a second visit a few days later (yes, we liked it that much), we tried the wet-aged rib eye. Whilst some argued that the charred taste was not to their liking, I think this completed the dish, giving it a crisp exterior at the same time as a juicy, pink interior. Rub on some roasted garlic and you’re in heaven.

enomod hong kong

For dessert, Enomod currently offers only two options, yet both are unmissable. The tiramisu is like no other you have ever tasted, spiked with Absinthe and spicy peppercorns, yet still maintaining that comforting creaminess. My favourite was the ricotta cheesecake with pistachio, dark chocolate chips and candied orange peel. The contrast of creamy versus crunchy, sweet versus tart, is to die for and will leave you wanting to lick the adorable jar it is served in clean.

With delicious, fresh produce, good service, quirky décor and reasonable prices (the amount of food we ate would have amounted to around $350 per head!), Enomod definitely has what it takes to be a success. Still in soft opening phase, it is packed every night, so I fear the waiting lists once everyone knows about this cool new spot…

Enomod

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 6065

www.facebook.com/Enomod

 

Tate Dining Room & Bar

17 Sep

 

 

tate dining room hong kong

After hearing mixed reviews about Tate Dining Room & Bar, I had to check it out for myself, firstly to see if the food exceeded the rather low expectations, and secondly, more importantly, to see if I was still hungry after nine courses, as many who had gone before me were.

tate dining room hong kong

The setting is gorgeous, elegant and girlie, designed by Candace Campos, the same amazing designer behind MANA! and Heirloom Eatery. A lot of white and cream shades with good use of lighting make the space, which seats only around 26 diners, appear much larger than it is.

Set menus come in two forms: a six-course sensualist set (priced at $680) or a nine-course gastronomy set (for a whopping $980). It is clear to see just how much thought has gone behind each and every dish, as chef Vicky Lau (formerly of Cépage), creates her ‘edible stories’, each entitled with a lovely name.

tate dining room hong kong

Our nine-course menu began with a ‘Potato Ice Cream’. This interesting contrast between the crispy hot potato croquette and smooth cold potato ice cream, broken up by a line of peanut sand, was apparently inspired by what Chef Vicky pictures when thinking of the beach on a hot summer’s day. I loved the croquette and the peanut sand but couldn’t quite work out my feelings towards the ice cream. The smoked salmon and caviar were welcome additions, although perhaps the flavours were a little too strong for the mild potato purée.

tate dining room hong kong

tate dining room hong kong

The ‘Autumn Delight’ that followed was lovely; consisting of chestnut purée, whole chestnuts, smoked eel, a quail’s egg and vegetable crisps, it was a combination of flavours and textures that I would never think to put together, yet somehow they worked to create a wonderfully comforting and definitely autumnal dish.

tate dining room hong kong

The ‘Foie Gras Terrine’ was one of the star dishes of the night; buttery smooth cubes of foie gras were paired with grapes, candied walnuts, crumbs of Sauternes jelly and goma sesame sauce, served alongside a perfect brioche. I was in foie gras heaven and definitely took advantage of the fact that I was dining with a non goose liver lover.

tate dining room hong kong

Unfortunately the dish that followed, ‘Forest Essence’, was nowhere near as good. The single scallop was overcooked and rubbery, the mushrooms were dry and tasteless and the black garlic paste was smeared so thinly on the plate that it needn’t have bothered being there at all. Possibly the most exciting thing about this dish was the line of crushed chilli.

tate dining room hong kong

A ‘Tomato Consumme’ (was the misspelling intentional?) came beautifully presented in an adorable little teacup. Although the actual soup looked rather boring, I liked the delicate flavours and found it lovely and comforting, with the basil oil and sprig of thyme serving to add a hint of summer.

tate dining room hong kong

The cleverly named ‘Hamgoustine’ consisted of ham and – you guessed it – langoustine ravioli, served in a ham broth, topped with parmesan foam and strips of Serrano ham. The ravioli were cooked to perfection, and I loved the contrast of the two distinct fillings, however my only complaint is that the broth was a little too salty.

tate dining room hong kong

The absolute star of the night was the ‘A4 – Kagoshima Beef Rib’. The medium-rare meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender and beautifully flavoured, paired with a miso potato purée and crunchy grilled asparagus: utterly faultless.

tate dining room hong kong

A pretty ‘Zen Garden’ appeared next, but unfortunately it wasn’t exactly our idea of bliss; as much as I like green tea as a drink, I’m never a fan of green tea desserts, so the matcha green tea mousse just didn’t work for me. Served on top of white chocolate mousse and alongside sesame panna cotta and peanut sand, the whole thing was just unbearably sweet for my taste.

tate dining room hong kong

‘Tate’s Mini Dessert Cart’, however, made up for it in both appearance and taste. It was a chocoholic’s dream, offering mini chocolate mousse, a rich chocolate drink, dark chocolate brownie and last but by no means least, a chocolate hazelnut truffle.

The staff at Tate are very welcoming and knowledgeable about each dish. Service is swift, but not to the point of feeling rushed. With Chef Vicky’s creativity and passion it has the right tools to be something really special, but there are still a number of issues that need resolving first.

Now to answer the question you’ve all been waiting for: Was I hungry after my nine-course meal? No, but neither was I bursting at the seams, and I’m not sure I agree with paying $980 and to not feel like I’m going to pop.

Tate Dining Room & Bar

59 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 2172

www.tate.com.hk

 

 

Bouchon Bistro Français

25 Apr

Another fairly newcomer to Elgin Street, Bouchon Bistro Français opened in January this year. From the outside, it looks like your typical French bistro, but once you get inside, this is even more apparent; with an array of vintage French posters lining the walls, hung amidst various blackboards and a shelf full of oddly shaped glass bottles, reminiscent of a French apothecary. A little Parisian window in the heart of Soho.

We originally had the intention of having a light lunch at a place called Pop Bites on Old Bailey Street but it appears to have metamorphosed into yet another Toni & Guy.  Although it offers good hair cuts, I wouldn’t suspect it offers good lunches. Or even bad lunches at that. The point I’m trying to make is that, as Bouchon was a last minute plan B choice (not because it was lower on my iPhone notes list than our plan A, but merely because I did not want the huge meal which I ended up having), I hadn’t had the chance to scope out the menu, which I’m sure many of you know by now is what I always like to do.

Nevertheless, they did offer a good menu, albeit with pricier options than necessary: braised beef cheeks bourguignon for $238, roasted chicken bistro for $328 – not the kind of money I like to spend on the average lunch, but there is always a trusty set lunch menu: $108 for a starter and a main. All the dishes are very simple but also very traditionally French, with options such as country paté with toasted baguette, Bayonne ham with cornichons, or (my selection) onion soup gratinée. 

We were sat on a table overlooking the very small kitchen, led by French chef Jerome Billot, and we watched as one of the chefs sliced more onions than I have ever seen in my life and slid them into a saucepan big enough to hide me in. I then watched with a big excited smile on my face, as the chef layered not one, not two but three slices of gruyere on top of my soup before putting it under the grill so that I was served a beautifully golden, perfectly cheesy soup in an iron pot. It was a little on the heavy side and I couldn’t manage it all, as I feared it might mean not being able to eat anything else, but it tasted good and the mild creamy cheese helped to counteract the strong taste of the onion. My friend ordered the tomato salad with goat’s cheese, which was apparently very nice but I think my soup was the winner.

For our main course, having seen another table being served the roast of the day with French fries, we were unable to turn the same down. It was roast pork on this particular day, served in a beer sauce. It definitely wouldn’t win top marks for presentation, as I would describe it more as very simple home-cooked comfort food, but it would score fairly highly on taste and the beer sauce was the perfect complement.

Almost unable to find the dessert compartment in our tummies, we very nearly walked away without one, until we looked at the menu and were intrigued by the chocolate marquisse with pistachio, which we ordered to share. A melt-in-the-mouth chocolate mousse cake, served on a pistachio sauce, this dessert was delectable. Ever so slightly too sweet and rich, I definitely couldn’t have managed it solo, but I wouldn’t decline ordering it to share again.

The service was very good and the waiters frequently asked if we were happy with our meal. I wouldn’t say the food was as amazing as your typical Parisian bistro, but they certainly make an effort in trying to make it so and it seems to be very popular even amongst HK’s abundant French crowd.

Our meal for two, without drinks and a shared dessert came to about $140 each. The wine list is reasonably priced and offers some great French wines from across the country, but I think the food coma alone was enough to make me struggle through my afternoon; a glass of wine would have certainly made me fall asleep at my desk!

Bouchon Bistro Français
49 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2525 9300

Date visited: Tuesday 19th April 2011

Mostaccioli Brothers

20 Apr

At the far end of Elgin Street, tucked away around the back of the buildings, you’ll find this sweet little restaurant. A newcomer to Soho, Mostaccioli Brothers (AKA Mo Bros) arrived on the scene a mere three months ago, yet if it’s as busy as it was a couple of Fridays ago every day, then it appears to have hit the ground running.

I have seen it mentioned online and wanted to give it a shot, but have actually never noticed it whenever I’ve walked past. You have to look up for a green sign saying ‘Mo Bros’ hanging above a little alley way. At first glance, this alley way looks somewhat dodgy and you’d never guess that it would lead to this quaint little spot. In fact we almost decided to give it a miss and stick to one of our regular haunts. Down the alley and round the corner, you come first to Mo Bros Bar, consisting of mostly alfresco seating with a nice little bar inside. Down a few steps and you reach the actual restaurant. We managed to get the last table available, outside on the terrace, which was ideal as it was such a beautiful day. It’s also a bit of a novelty to find somewhere in Soho (not including rooftops) where you can actually sit outside. The terrace is made to look like a pretty little Italian walled garden, albeit with very fake looking ivy and windows with scenic landscapes painted in. However, regardless of the fake accessories, it still feels like you could be somewhere other than Hong Kong. At least until you look up and see the buildings towering overhead. I love people watching, but it was a nice change to have no people to watch, and no traffic disrupting our conversation.

The interior of the restaurant is very small and cosy, with attention drawn to a large painting of an Italian countryside. To give you an idea of the size of the restaurant, there was a large birthday party of about 12 diners who took up the length of the room. There is amazingly cheesy American-Italian music blaring out, even through speakers in the loo (but unfortunately not in the terrace) which for some reason immediately brought to mind the scene in Beauty and the Beast where Gaston and his friends are drinking beer in a tavern! Everyone loves a good Disney film, so, although the particular song that was playing whilst I was in the little girls room had absolutely nothing to do with a Disney film, it still put a smile on my face and made me want to sing along (regardless of not knowing the lyrics).

Image courtesy of the wonderful Karen Fong

The attentive staff immediately served us a delicious loaf of warm ciabatta with a tomato and garlic dip whilst we decided on our food. There was the option of an “all you can eat” set lunch which includes a free-flowing supply of bread, soup, salad, a signature pasta dish and a drink for $128, which seemed a reasonable price but far more food than we could stomach. Instead we decided to share the buffalo mozzarella and order a plate of pasta each. The mozzarella was beautifully fresh, imported from Italy like most of their ingredients, drizzled in olive oil and pesto and served with only three cherry tomatoes (very stingy!) and, rather bizarrely, Carr’s water biscuits. Two of us ordered the signature ‘baked Mostaccioli’ and our third diner tried the cream-free spaghetti carbonara. The signature dish, which is apparently ‘Chicago style’ (definitely Chicago style portions!) was a variation of penne pasta with sausages and red onions in a tomato sauce, generously covered in mozzarella and baked. The ideal comfort food. I was feeling fresh as a daisy, but I can imagine this being incredible hangover food, particularly with the amount of salt they used. The first few bites were delicious but the saltiness became a little overwhelming and I could only manage half of the enormous serving. The cream-free carbonara looked and tasted rather dry, which is, I suspect, why most people nowadays use cream when preparing this dish. I like that they put in the effort to make an original carbonara by replacing the cream with eggs, but unfortunately it was not a successful dish and my friend actually ended up finishing my dish instead of hers!

The dessert menu is rather disappointing, with only three options: tiramisu, cannoli or ice cream served with chocolate or whisky, none of which particularly appealed to us. I would have liked to have had a few other choices like perhaps a ricotta cake or anything to do with chocolate. Unimpressed with the selection, we opted instead for a frozen yoghurt en route back to the office! 

Total bill was $135 each which didn’t include a drink. A great new addition to Elgin Street which I would come back to for some unpretentious home-style cooking. If you’re looking for some alfresco dining in the heart of Soho, this little place is just the ticket… but make sure you come with an appetite as they serve American portions! 

 

Mostaccioli Brothers

B/F & G/F 16 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2525 5770  

Date visited: Friday 8th April 2011         

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,808 other followers