Archive | June, 2012

Piadina simply eatalian!

28 Jun

 

 

Piadina simply eatalian hong kong

When I lived in Parma a few years ago, I was in foodie heaven. The fresh pastas, the Parma ham, the huge wheels of Parmesan; it was amazing. There was one dish in particular that I just could not get enough of: the piadina. Not to be confused with a wheat tortilla, a piadina is a thin Italian flatbread native to the Emilia-Romagna region (that which includes Parma), which can be stuffed with cheese, cold cuts, vegetables, you name it.

A number of months ago, I became very excited to see a restaurant called Piadina simply eatalian!, just off Hollywood Road, and knew there and then that I MUST try it. It has taken me a while to put this decision into practice, given the ridiculous number of other restaurants I have been trying in the interim, but I can happily say that I have now finally tried it.

Piadina is not really a restaurant, but a small, casual café with a tiny kitchen serving its namesake alongside a wide range of pastas and salads at pretty reasonable prices.

Piadina Simply Eatalian Hong Kong

We started with an Insalata di Pollo, a delicious salad consisting of grilled chicken seasoned with Italian herbs, romaine lettuce, grated Parmesan and croutons, lightly dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I say it was delicious…the truth is that it was only eventually delicious, as the first time round we found a lump of mud amongst the lettuce leaves – that was definitely not on the menu description! Thankfully the staff were all immediately apologetic and replaced it with a new salad with properly washed leaves.

Piadina simply eatalian Hong Kong

Forget the mud salad, however, as the real reason I was there was for the piadine. I have recently discovered that il Bel Paese across the road from my flat sells everything I need to make my favourite piadina (Parma ham, stracchino and rocket), so we chose to opt for something different, which came in the form of a Ricca, consisting of Parma ham, mozzarella, mushrooms and truffle pâté, a combination that worked perfectly. The flavour of the truffle was strong, but not overpowering, meaning the rich, salty flavours of the Parma ham were still very much there.

We also shared a Piccante (salami, mozzarella and rocket) as recommended by one of my loyal readers. The spicy salami contrasted perfectly with the mild, creamy mozzarella and the crunchy rocket was the cherry on top.

The best thing about Piadina’s piadine is that they are made fresh in-house every day, resulting in soft, floury, rustic bread that reminds me of Italy. It’s certainly not perfect, but for a soothing reminder that Parma isn’t as far as it seems, Piadina will definitely stay on my list of cheap, comforting eats.

Piadina simply eatalian!

G/F, 7 Hollywood Centre
223 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3572 0130

Grassroots Pantry

27 Jun

There is no denying that, as much as we love this city, all the running around and having lunch and dinner out most days (or maybe I’m just speaking for myself!) can start to take its toll on our bodies. I obviously love my food and eating out is part of what I do, but even my body gets tired of the amount of nasties I’m consuming every day. Thankfully Grassroots Pantry, a lovely new café serving wholesome, organic food has just come to the rescue.

I am by no means a vegetarian, yet when I was recently asked what I do when I’m trying to be healthy, my answer was: try to eat less meat and more vegetables.  Vegetarian food doesn’t have to be considered “boring” and “too healthy”; when it’s done right, it can be so wholesome and delicious, and I will often find myself craving vegetarian days just to feel good about myself.

Grassroots Pantry

Grassroots Pantry is a beautiful haven tucked away down a quiet little street in Sai Ying Pun, serving nutritious, homemade, plant-based dishes, inspired by cuisines from all over the world.

The space is gorgeous; every little detail has been clearly thought out by Peggy Chan, the chef behind the wonderful dishes. Outside, green bushy plants adorn the small patio, which seats up to eight diners at a time. Inside, vintage-looking furniture seating a further ten diners, with cute wallpaper, gorgeous homey rugs and sweet little knickknacks to complete the look. I described it as a happy-making place, as from the moment I entered, I simply could not stop smiling. It seems that the staff are similarly affected, as every one of them is super happy and friendly.

Grassroots Pantry

Most of the ingredients are locally sourced and brought in daily, making sure that everything is incredibly fresh; if something isn’t in season or isn’t as fresh as it should be, recipes are altered so that customers get nothing but the best. The final menu is still being developed, though there is still a significant range of choices on the temporary menu, as well as a special dish on the set menu, which changes daily.Grassroots Pantry Quinoa Salad

We started with a Quinoa Salad made with dried fruits and hazelnuts. I loved the fresh flavours, enhanced by sprigs of parsley, and the nuts and sunflower seeds added to the interesting textures.

Grassroots Pantry Sweet potato chips

The sweet potato fries, which were baked rather than fried, were incredible, dipped in a vegan mayo made from tofu, chickpeas and lemon juice. Normally I find mayonnaise completely unnecessary as it adds little value other than fat to the meal; this one, however, was delicious and healthy – bonus!

Grassroots Pantry Thai green curry

The Thai veggie green curry served with brown rice was wholesome and comforting, with a subtle, yet notable kick at the end. The main ingredient was the hedgehog mushroom (a.k.a. monkey head mushroom), which had a ‘meaty’ consistency that would almost make real meat redundant.

Grassroots Pantry Palak Paneer

The Palak paneer served with homemade whole-wheat chapati was literally goodness in a bowl. Similar to saag, but less creamy, this dish was incredibly warming and comforting.

Grassroots Pantry vegan chocolate cake

For dessert, we tried the special of the day, vegan chocolate cake with cashew nut cream. Where some healthy desserts can have a dry and crumbly texture, this one was perfectly moist, so you’d barely even know it was healthy! We were told that the secret to getting the texture right lies in adding pulp from the juicer, which also gives it a natural sweetness, meaning no need for sugar.

The fresh juices are also a must. We tried the Digestion Booster (carrot, lemon and ginger) and the Mean Green (pear, green apple, leafy greens, parsley, celery, cucumber and ginger), both of which were scrumptious, whilst still clearly incredibly good for us.

Grassroots Pantry private room

Grassroots Pantry is not just a restaurant. It also offers culinary classes and workshops taught by specialists in the field. There is also a gorgeous space on the second floor that can be rented out for private parties.

As I have already mentioned, service at Grassroots Pantry comes with a genuine smile, showing that all the staff are passionate about what they do. Prices range from $98 to $168 for a main course, which is pretty spot on given you’re paying for deliciously fresh, organic produce. I’ve decided that Grassroots Pantry may well be my go-to place for those days when I need a food-hug.

Grassroots Pantry

12 Fuk Sau Lane
Sai Ying Pun
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2873 3353

Read my review of Grassroots Pantry on Localiiz. You might find some other exciting restaurants on there too!

Brickhouse

25 Jun

Brickhouse Hong Kong

Mexican is the flavour of the moment across Hong Kong. After complaints that there were no good tacos in the city, taco shops popped up everywhere, adding to the throng of pretty average Tex-Mex restaurants. When word got out that new kid on the block Brickhouse would be opening as yet another Mexican resto, I was excited, but I can’t say I expected grand things. Boy, was I wrong.

As we know already from many of Hong Kong’s hidden gems, some of the best places are tucked away behind the scenes. Such is the case with Brickhouse; you’ll only find it if you’re looking for it, as it’s hidden away down a random-looking side alley as you approach Lan Kwai Fong, There is no signage on or around the restaurant as the idea is to keep it cosy, exclusive and hidden. I like this idea, except the hidden part in practice doesn’t seem to be working: it’s been open for three weeks and it’s heaving every single night!

Brickhouse has a no reservations policy. Imagine the thrill and excitement that Yardbird has, a year after opening, double it, and that is what I’m expecting Brickhouse will be like, with queues all the way down the alleyway to get a table. Luckily it’s open until 2am on a weeknight, and 5am on a weekend, so I’m very excited about the idea of a midnight (taco) feast.

Brickhouse Hong Kong

I love the vibe at Brickhouse; as soon as I walked in, I was wowed by the eclectic décor consisting of graffiti-esque paintings by local artists, stickers dotted willy nilly all over the place, a very rustic floor, and obviously red brick wall panels. The quirky design makes the place look unfinished, yet in a really hip and funky kind of way. Music is blasted out at a tolerable volume making you instantly want to sing along and dance, and it looks as though even the staff are having fun; with so many miserable, moody waiters across the city, seeing staff who actually love what they are doing is really refreshing.

The menu is rather eclectic too. The choice is vast, yet portions are small, meaning you are able to choose a handful of dishes to share, which is my absolute favourite way of eating. While you’re thinking of what to order, definitely try one of Brickhouse’s exciting cocktails, my favourite being the Diabla, consisting of jalapeño vodka, raspberries, pomegranate and lemon: fruity and sharp with a subtle chilli kick.

Brickhouse watermelon salad

Our feast began with a Watermelon salad. As I’ve mentioned plenty of times, I am not a salad fiend. However, this salad, made with cubes of the freshest watermelon, strips of cucumber, goat’s feta, clusters of candied pumpkin seeds and chilli syrup was absolutely incredible, with the flavours and textures working perfectly together.

Brickhouse street corn

The Mexican street corn is a must. The sweet, juicy corn on the cob is first smothered in chilli mayo with lime, then sprinkled generously with grated cheese and coriander to give it a little something special without losing the taste of the corn itself. We both polished off our share without a word.

Brickhouse beets

Beetroot is still one of those things that I’ll eat if it’s put in front of me as I know it’s good for me, but if there were other vegetables, I’d probably choose those. The homemade beet fries, however, are something special. First roasted, then deep fried in a very light tempura batter, and finally dipped in the accompanying sweet chilli mayo, these were delicious and more-ish, yet almost 100% guilt-free.

Brickhouse tostadas

There are two options of Tostadas, of which, of course, we tried both. While the braised octopus had a great flavour, it was a little on the chewy side. The yellowfin tuna tostada, however, with chipotle mayo and habanero mustard, was delicious melt-in-the-mouth goodness on top, with perfect crunchtastic toasted tortilla below.

Brickhouse tacos

A note about the tortillas: these corn tortillas are made fresh in-house every day, something somewhat novel amongst Hong Kong’s Mexican eateries. The taco choices are listed on a blackboard and change regularly. Our choices, of which again we tried all five, were chicken, pulled pork, market fish, rib eye with crispy manchego, and venison. All had their own interesting flavours, but the absolute shining star of the lot was the rib eye with crispy manchego, grilled tomato salsa and coriander. The meat was beautifully tender, the dressings utterly divine. Although it sounds delicious, our suggestion is that you skip the venison and get two of the rib eyes instead.

Brickhouse ceviche

Of the three Ceviche options, we tried the Back to Life (a blend of shrimp, grilled tomato, smoked chilli, horseradish and citrus dressing) and the Peruvian (yellowtail tuna, apple, daikon relish, orange, avocado and yuzu-lime dressing). The former was a little too strongly-flavoured for my palate, but I adored the delicate flavours and super tender textures of the Peruvian ceviche.

Brickhouse chilli relleno

From the main courses, we tried the Chilli relleno, a poblano pepper stuffed with quinoa, butternut squash and manchego cheese, served in a rich tomato broth. If I were a vegetarian, I would be more than satisfied with this wholesome, comforting dish.

Brickhouse beef shortrib

The beef shortrib was beautifully tender and sweet, cooked in a brown sugar reduction, served with creamy mashed potato and baby corn done in the same way as the street corn.

Brickhouse yoghurt

After this incredible feast, it would have been rude not to try dessert – so of course we tried two. The first consisted of fresh yoghurt blended with goat’s cheese, layers of buttery dulce de leche and raspberries, topped with a bar of chocolate-covered peanut butter. I suggested these incredible chocolate bars should be sold in gift boxes, to which the response was: “so I can buy them as a gift for myself?!”

Brickhouse chilli chocolate cake

The chilli chocolate cake, although I couldn’t detect even the tiniest hint of chilli, was most definitely the best chocolate fondant I have had in Hong Kong and simply oozed molten chocolate goodness at the touch of a fork.

After only one trip to Brickhouse, I think it has already become one of my favourite places in this restaurant-filled city. Everything about it from the super upbeat vibe, to the friendly waiters, dangerously tasty cocktails, delicious food (at relatively reasonable prices – the average food bill will come to $300 per person, without drinks) and the fact that no service charge is added to the bill leaves no doubt in my mind that it will be a roaring success…if it isn’t already.

Brickhouse

G/F 20A D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2810 0560

Why not have a read of my mini-review of Brickhouse on Localiiz too? You might find some other exciting restaurants on there!

Pizzeria Pubblico

21 Jun

 

 

Pizzeria Pubblico

Back in the Fussy Days (for it could be said that I used to be the world’s fussiest eater), I absolutely loathed pizza. Whenever my brother insisted on going to Pizza Hut, I would, at the age of seven, buy some chicken nuggets (or whatever it is Burger King calls them), and take them to Pizza Hut, where I would sit as far from the pizza (and my brother) as possible, only gracing him with my presence because I had been promised dessert from the infamous ice cream machine.

Now, however, I have seen the light, and in fact it was my suggestion to take my brother to brand new Pizzeria Pubblico for dinner one night. There was no promise of ice cream, but thankfully he didn’t need persuading.

Pizzeria Pubblico

Pizzeria Pubblico, tucked away in the little alleyway behind Pure by the escalator, opened earlier this month by Integrated Hospitality Management (IHM), the brains behind Posto Pubblico (hence the name) and Linguini Fini. Owners Rob Spina and Todd Darling are childhood friends who grew up in their families’ pizzerias in New York; Spina’s grandfather was a New York Pizzaiolo from Sicily. They wanted to create the same true New York style pizza in the heart of Soho, and that is exactly what they’ve done.

Pizzeria Pubblico

The space is very casual with an open façade, chequered flooring, brick walls and informal seating. In true NY style, orders are placed at the counter, where you are given a number and told to listen out for it. There are five choices of ‘pie’ visible through the counter, which you can either buy by the slice (starting from $30) or the whole pie (from $200). I find it mesmerising to watch executive chef Vinny Lauria (who you may recognise from Linguini Fini) and his team kneading and tossing the pizzas in front of you.

Pizzeria Pubblico HK

Pizzeria Pubblico

Vinny’s roots are also from Sicily, meaning the choices are classic and unpretentious, offering Plain (a la margarita), Pepperoni (my favourite; the pepperoni is made in-house), Sausage (again, homemade), Brooklyn Special (with fried aubergine, tomato sauce, roasted peppers, roasted garlic and Pubblico mozzarella), and another of my favourites, Pubblico (topped with Pubblico mozzarella, ricotta, tomato sauce, fresh basil, parmesan and extra virgin olive oil). The bases are not Napoli-thin, but nor are they ciabatta-thick; they are a perfect middle ground between the two, topped with nothing but the freshest ingredients and made before your very eyes. Personally I like my pizza generously sprinkled with chilli flakes, a pot of which awaits you on every table.

Pizzeria Pubblico Italian Sub

Aside from the pizzas, there are a small number of salads and ‘subs’ on offer. We tried the Italian Sub, liberally filled with three different kinds of meat (Mortadella, Salami Milano and Capicola – similar to coppa), pickled peppers, lettuce, tomato and onions. The bread is baked fresh daily and is wonderfully soft. Though the focus is obviously on the amazing fillings, the subs would not be complete without the deliciously fresh bread.

Pizzeria Pubblico Insalata

The Insalata Mercato Fresca, made with fresh ingredients from the Homegrown Foods farm, works well as a side dish, though I’m not sure I would be satisfied with it on its own. After all, Pizzeria Pubblico is really all about the pizzas.

 

Staying true to the team’s Sicilian roots, the only dessert offered is cannoli, an essential part of Sicilian cuisine. A tube of crispy pastry is lovingly filled with a blend of mascarpone and chopped pistachios. Though I’m not always a fan of creamy desserts, this definitely won me over.

Pizzeria Pubblico isn’t exactly cheap as chips, and although it may be slightly more expensive than its rival from down the street, personally I think it might actually be better. What’s even better is that the slices are smaller and less doughy, which obviously means you can have two slices and not feel like a complete fatty. At the moment, pizza is served until 11pm, with plans to stay open later to feed the late-night crowds. So if you’re worried that ordering two slices might be a bit gluttonous, you could always have one for dinner…and one several hours later as a snack on your way home!

Pizzeria Pubblico

G/F Tsun Wing Lane
Soho
Hong Kong

Tel: 2530 2779

Chautari Restaurant

18 Jun

The Dim Sum Diaries ratings

 

 

Chautari restaurant hong kong

The Queen Street Cooked Food Market in Sheung Wan is not your average array of dai pai dongs. When I visited ABC Kitchen earlier this year, I learnt that cooked food centres can in fact serve gourmet food, complete with tablecloths and ‘proper’ cutlery. It was on that same visit that another restaurant, Chautari, attracted my senses and I knew I had to savour its Indian and Nepalese curries.

So we already know that this cooked food centre serves delicious Italian food, I’m assuming its Chinese food must be delicious, but I can now safely tell you that its Indian and Nepalese cuisine is out of this world.

Obviously it’s in a cooked food centre, so the atmosphere is not what you would normally find in an Indian restaurant; it is lively, noisy and frankly more fun than a civilised Indian restaurant. The waiters are attentive and forever smiling, which makes a change from many dai pai dongs where food is practically thrown before you with a frown.

Chautari Restaurant

Vegetable Samosas

After starting with the complimentary poppadoms with Indian-style mint sauce (delicious), we cut open some incredible vegetable samosas. As I said in my review of The Chinnery, a wise friend once told me that the best samosas are those that have the ability to stand up on their own. Well, wise friend, you are certainly right in this case; these 3D samosas had the most deliciously flaky pastry encasing delicately spiced vegetables. I detected more than a hint of cinnamon, which is definitely one of my absolute favourite spices.

Chautari Restaurant

Vegetable Pokora

The vegetable pokora were divine, a wonderful selection of assorted vegetables deep-fried in spicy batter. Somehow, however, although they were in batter, they still seemed light and far from oily.

Onion Bhaji chautari restaurant

Onion Bhaji

Here comes the hilarious point of the night when we thought we had ordered three pieces of onion bhaji and had in fact ordered three BASKETS! We still managed to get through at least one basket of these deliciously crispy yet tender bhaji, and the lovely waiter offered to only charge us for two due to the clear misunderstanding. He must have thought we were absolute fatties when he took our order!

Fish tikka chautari restaurant

Fish Tikka

The fish tikka, made with the most tender pieces of sole you could ever taste, was utterly divine. While the flavour of the fish itself was light and delicate, the spices it was infused with really shone through. Amazing.

Bhundi Masala

A side dish of Bhundi masala, a blend of okra, onions, tomatoes and mild chilli, was lovely and fresh, adding some wholesome goodness to our indulgent meal.

Chautari curry

Dal Tadka, Saagwala Paneer, Chicken Masala, Lamb Kadai

Moving on to the curries, starting with the two lighter ones, the Saagwala paneer was decadently creamy and mild, while the Dal tadka was deliciously comforting with a definite, yet still gentle spice. I loved the beautifully tender Chicken Masala, which had a richly aromatic flavour, but my absolute favourite was the Lamb kadai. Having never even heard of a kadai curry, we took a gamble, but definitely came out winning. The chunks of lamb were incredibly tender, infused with cumin and cinnamon amongst other delicious spices. They must have known that our table of girls could handle our spice, as the latter two curries were not for the faint-hearted, but neither were they overpowering.

Chautari Chennai roti

Chennai Roti

While the naan and garlic naan were wonderfully soft and fluffy, even better was the Chennai roti; on its own it was amazing, but dipped into the curry or used to encase chunks of tender meat, it was absolute perfection. Even when I was bursting at the seams, it was all I could do to stop myself from reaching for the roti and dipping it into the few leftovers we had.

When deciding what rating to give Chautari, I thought first about how I could fault it. I soon realised that there was nothing to fault; the atmosphere was lively and fun, the service was excellent, the food delicious…and all for just $140 each, including a tip and soft drinks. Will I go back? Absolutely.

Chautari

Shop CF6 Queen’s Street Cooked Food Centre
1 Queen’s Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2600 4408

Brunch at The Principal

13 Jun

 

 

 

The Principal Press Room Group

Everyone loves a good Champagne Brunch on a Sunday. As much as we complain that we don’t like Sunday drinking or waking up hungover on a Monday, it is still hard to find a reason to turn down an occasion that involves far too much food and far too much Champagne, especially when it’s actually Champagne, and not some cheap ‘sparkling wine’. Having never tried Press Room Group’s newest venture, The Principal, I jumped at the chance to check out its Sunday brunch.

The Principal Press Room Group Hong Kong

Press Room Group is known for its British home-comforts, elaborate décor and relaxed atmosphere. The Principal on Star Street, however, has gone for a completely different approach; the space is very minimalistic with white walls and red-brick detailing. Tables are not crammed in to seat as many diners as possible, but rather, diners are given more space than the usual Hong Kong restaurant, including a row of dining booths at the back of the room. Said booths are adorned with cute and comfy tartan cushions that contrast beautifully with the leather benches.

The Principal press room group hong kong

Hailing from the Canary Islands, Chef Jonay Armas uses influences from his hometown to create a menu that is totally different to any other brunch in Hong Kong. Rather than having to get up from the comfortable booths, starters are brought to the centre of the table, so you can lazily indulge in your own little buffet.

the principal press room group hong kong

Yoghurt mousse, berry compote and granola

Starting light and healthy, the brunch begins with a Yoghurt mousse, berry compote and granola. It’s hard to find good yoghurt in Hong Kong, so usually I avoid it altogether, which meant that The Principal’s yoghurt was even more of a treat and, even better, it seemed light and less creamy than your average yoghurt. The berries were sharp and juicy, perfectly complementing the crunchy sweet granola.

the principal press room group hong kong

Queso – embutidos

‘Queso – embutidos’, a plate of cold cuts, cheese, figs and grapes followed. These were all of the highest quality, cut especially for us from the central cheese and meats station that dominated the main dining area.

the principal press room group hong kong

Homemade ‘tins’

The Homemade ‘tins’ were incredible: what looked like three adorable little sardine tins were laden with paprika-escabeche mussels, natural cockles with lemon zest and anchovies in vinegar, garlic and olive oil. All three had such intense and interesting flavours, but the ultimate winner were the cockles; they were merely marinated in olive oil and lemon, but that was enough to give them a wonderfully refreshing zing.

the principal press room group hong kong

Ceviche

Three little jars of Ceviche were also delicious. The tuna with mango, lemon, young coconut and avocado sounded exciting, but was actually my least favourite of the three; the flavours combined were excellent, but the tuna alone had absorbed very little of the flavours and left something to be desired. The prawn with orange, grapefruit and tomato was divinely refreshing, citrusy and light, enhanced by sprigs of chopped fresh parsley. Best of all, however, were the scallops, marinated in lime, ginger and cauliflower, with an added touch of chilli. The meaty scallops melted in the mouth and were bursting with refreshing flavours.

the principal press room group hong kong

Frituras

Of the Frituras, the green asparagus tempura were a little overcooked and lacking in flavour, the chicken croquetas were also a little on the bland side, but the cod buñuelos were absolutely amazing: little bite-sized, dreamy fishcakes that tasted divine on their own but even better dipped in the garlicky aioli.

the principal press room group hong kong

63˚C egg with parmentier and chorizo

Main courses are selected a la carte from a choice ranging from quiche to French toast. I was tempted by the 63˚C egg with parmentier and chorizo, one of The Principal’s specialities. The egg is slow cooked for 45 minutes leaving it creamy and delicate, the yolk wonderfully soft and runny. The salty chorizo brings out the flavour of the delicate egg, though I perhaps would have liked some toast to mop up the creamy mixture of egg and potato.

the principal press room group hong kong

Steak tartare

The steak tartare was one of the best I have tasted. The well-seasoned beef was of the highest quality, topped with two quail’s eggs and served with sweet potato crisps that complemented the saltiness of the beef perfectly.

the principal press room group hong kong

The biggest wow-factor of the meal is definitely the desserts. Although I was full even before the main course, on seeing the array of desserts that were presented before us, I managed to find the room. The raspberry pop rocks (raspberry white chocolate, raspberry puree, fresh raspberry and snap, crackle and pop) reminded me of childhood days: as you bite into it, the whole thing explodes, pops and fizzes inside your mouth! The lime meringue pies were delicious balls of a kind of lime ice cream encased in soft meringue; it could have done with being a little crispier on the outside. These were served amidst a glass of the most interesting popcorn I have ever tasted: popcorn, peanuts, cornflakes, toffee and cayenne pepper – amazing. I found the piña colada marshmallow unexpectedly delicious; the fresh flavours of coconut and pineapple, plus the grated coconut on the outside made for an exciting, summery treat.

the principal press room group hong kong churros

Churros

The churros, dipped in bittersweet 70% Valrhona chocolate were incredibly moreish, but the absolute star of the show, which I cleverly left till last, were the mini homemade “Snickers”. These little beauties, made from nougat, melted marshmallow, caramel, chocolate and chopped peanuts, I think may actually be better than the real thing. Saddened by the thought that it would have to end, I took the smallest bites I could manage and made it last as long as possible.

Service at The Principal was top notch; the waiters and even the super-friendly General Manager were constantly checking to see if we were happy and re-filling our Champagne glasses before we could see the bottom of them. The one thing I can fault, however, is the price. At $690 (for the free-flow option) per person, plus service charge, it’s more expensive than some hotel brunches, and even more expensive than Zuma! However, for a special occasion, or if I ever feel like being indulgent, I will most likely be back…Even if it’s just for the “Snickers”.

The Principal
9 Star Street
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2563 3444

Red Kitchen

11 Jun

 

 

Since starting The Dim Sum Diaries over a year ago, I have become much more adventurous and strive to travel further afield to feed my tum in areas I consider outside of my comfort zone. That said, I have, until now, kept my ‘adventures’ to still fairly well-trodden areas. However, last week, I ventured into the ‘ghetto’ that is Cheung Sha Wan to try Red Kitchen.

I say ‘ghetto’ because I was quite honestly surprised by how eerily quiet and empty the streets were, bar the odd pedestrian standing on a street corner, or group of drunk locals enjoying a game of cards and some dinner. Had I been in any other country, I might have been a little apprehensive about walking the unknown streets; in Hong Kong, however, we felt safe as houses. Though perhaps not as safe as the run down houses (slash apartments) that lined the streets as we came out of the MTR station.

After almost getting lost due to the restaurant being on the opposite end of the street than we had originally thought, we arrived at Red Kitchen, an unassuming, small restaurant tucked away between residential buildings. Signage is in Chinese, all menus are in Chinese and the staff speak only Cantonese; it is as local as they come. Fortunately we had a Cantonese-speaker amongst us, who was able to understand the descriptions of dishes given by the waiter, although some ingredients were so unusual that she was unable to translate them into English. We knew, therefore, that the meal would put our taste buds to the test to try to decipher the ingredients present.

As we were only four people, we were restricted to ordering the ‘Set A’ menu. A nine-course meal for a mere $200 each was fine by me, so although I had no clue what we were getting, I had no complaints about menu ‘Set A’.

It began with a cucumber and fish maw salad: paper-thin slivers of cucumber doused in rice wine vinegar were topped with jelly-like sheets of fish maw, a refreshing combination of flavours and textures that set the bar high for the rest of the meal.

To follow, a rather ominous-looking pot of black soup arrived. Rather like being in the sea and not knowing what’s underneath me, this deathly opaque soup frightened me a little bit. However, to taste, it was comforting and delicious, almost like a more flavoursome vegetable broth, rich with mushrooms and root vegetables. According to the waiter, this is a very healthy soup that is ‘good for the body’. Glad to hear it.

Next up, and definitely more appealing to look at, were some humungous deep fried oysters. These plump, creamy oysters were deliciously crispy on the outside, finished with a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

The next dish, which apparently translated to something like ‘fish in a purse’, was hands down the best dish of the night. Little bundles of meaty, boneless white fish were wrapped around some smoked ham and abalone mushrooms, then encased in Chinese cabbage and served in a bowl of delicate broth.

A bowl of pork and bean curd sheets braised in fermented red beans followed. Although the pork wasn’t much to look at and was difficult to eat, it was beautifully tender and intensely flavoured. The bean curd sheets were just as tasty too.

We had high expectations of the signature stuffed duck, but were sadly let down by the blandness of it. The whole duck was deboned, stuffed with rice, chestnuts and salted egg, before being sewn back together and roasted. There was far too much rice, not enough meat and, although I feel like a total gweilo saying this, it would probably have benefitted from a sprinkling of soy sauce. It was the sweet chestnuts and salted egg that really stood out in this dish.

The tofu and baby pak choy was again not as good as it could have been: the vegetables were delicious and crunchy, whilst the tofu, although wonderfully silky, was lacking in flavour.

The last savoury dish of king prawns cooked in honey, though difficult to extract from their shells, were perfectly cooked and deliciously moreish; sadly there was only one each.

To finish, we were served a plate of red date cake. Although not everyone’s cup of tea, I loved this dessert, which was decadently sweet and wonderfully gooey. I was quite pleased not everyone liked it as it meant more for me!

Although Red Kitchen still has some imperfections, it has proven that trips outside of our comfort zone are very much worthwhile. The beauty of Red Kitchen is that, as dishes are prepared to cater for the exact number in your party, you are able to try nine different dishes without being overwhelmed or uncomfortably full. Where in Central would we find a comparative gem that serves a nine-course feast for only $200? Nowhere, I tell you.

Red Kitchen

542 Fuk Wing Street
Cheung Sha Wan
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 6769 0299 or 9094 0584

Mandy’s Private Kitchen

8 Jun

 

 

 

 

I am slowly accomplishing my mission of trying every private kitchen in Hong Kong… even if it may take me my whole lifetime to get there. The latest on my list was Mandy’s Private Kitchen, a Caribbean feast in Sai Kung set up by Mandy Nathali in her own home overlooking Sai Kung town and the outlying islands.

British-born Mandy is of Punjabi Indian descent but, after marrying her Trinidadian husband 20 years ago, moved to Trinidad with him and developed her already-strong passion for cooking by learning to cook Caribbean cuisine from her mother-in-law.

 

Mandy’s Private Kitchen stemmed from the number of successful dinner parties Mandy would host for friends and family on her beautiful terrace. We organised a dinner for 16 on one of the only sunny Saturdays we’ve had for some time… or so it began.

 

Wanting to make the most of Mandy’s terrace and pool in what was left of the sunshine, we made the winding journey up to Mandy’s house mid-afternoon. Hopes of lazing in the sun were put to bed due to the average weather and lack of lounging space; unfortunately, by the time we arrived the sun had gone behind the clouds. A few of us ignored the iciness of the water, however, and built up an appetite by trying to swim against the resistance jet, something I found incredibly entertaining.

Meanwhile, starters were served buffet-style for us to pick at at our leisure from around 4pm and included Pokora, Jamaican Beef Patties, Caribbean Potato Salad and Traditional West Indian Corn Bread. I could not get enough of the latter, with its fluffy, cake-like texture and savoury-sweet flavour. Smothered in some of Mandy’s homemade spicy sauces, it was even better. Mandy even made a gluten-free corn bread as an alternative. The beef patties were also delicious – flaky on the outside and warm, tender goodness on the inside.

A couple of side dishes of St Vincent Coleslaw and Mango Chow Chow were also served. The coleslaw wasn’t anything to write home about but I loved the sour-spicy contrast of the green mango chow chow. I also kind of loved the name.

After a few hours of enjoyment before the rain came in, the main courses were served, again buffet-style. By this time we had watched the leg of lamb and jerk chicken being cooked on the barbecue, so were more than ready to eat them!

The Steel Pan Leg of Lamb is one of Mandy’s signature dishes. Marinated for five days in a secret blend of Trinidadian spices, the lamb is then slow cooked for around two and a half hours on the barbecue, leaving it intensely flavoured and incredibly tender.

Mandy’s slow BBQed Jerk Chicken Pieces, a Caribbean must-have, were delicious: having been marinated for two days, the chicken was wonderfully succulent, with a fiery sweet flavour. Apparently Trinidadian jerk chicken differs to Jamaican in that it is sweeter and less spicy; either way, it worked!

 

Perhaps even more delicious was the Trinidadian Fish Curry. A recipe taught to Mandy by her father-in-law, known to the family as ‘Papa’, this curry is not like any Indian curry; rich and zesty, Papa’s curry is infused with a lot of fresh lime and a lot of chilli; the side dish of rice n’ peas was definitely necessary.

Other side dishes of Pumpkin Talkari and Spinach Callaloo were deliciously comforting. Both were decadently buttery and taste bud-tinglingly spicy. In Mandy’s words, “healthy with a little bit of naughty is what food is all about.” I wholeheartedly agree.

One aspect of Trinidadian cuisine that I love are the baked bread pockets. They remind me of Venezuelan arepas: just slit them open and stuff them with anything you like. I even took some home and tried them filled with cheese for breakfast the next morning – obviously not quite the same as arepas, but I wouldn’t dream of comparing the two.

Dessert, after such yummy food, for me, was a little bit of a disappointment. Although I loved the Christmassy-spiced flavours of the Caribbean rum cake, it was a little on the dry side. I’m never a huge fan of trifle, so the Rum Trifle didn’t excite me too much either. Fortunately, I had eaten so much already that I hardly needed dessert anyway.

By the time we were half way through our main courses, unfortunately the heavens opened, as they seem to do every weekend of late, and we were forced to come inside, something that regrettably did dampen our moods (excuse the pun). Inside, as we huddled around the table, we couldn’t help but feel that we were intruding on Mandy’s private home, especially as she and her family sat eating their dinner just metres away, and this inevitably took a lot of the enjoyment away.

Prices at Mandy’s Private Kitchen vary depending on the menu you choose. Our menu was $500 a head; not too bad on its own, but once you take into consideration the costs involved in getting there and back, the added 10% service charge, on top of a $95 corkage charge per bottle (and we drank a fair bit of vino!), plus beer charges and coffee(?!), it can turn out to be quite a pricey meal, so do beware and give your wallet a little pep-talk to prepare it.

Mandy’s Private Kitchen

Sai Kung (address only given on confirmation of booking)

Tel: +852 9816 9946

Email: mandy@mandysprivatekitchen.com

MANA! Fast Slow Food

5 Jun

 

 

The organic, slow food movement has taken the world by storm. Although Hong Kong has been pretty slow to jump on the bandwagon, little steps are being taken to catch up with the rest of the world and fulfill the growing demand for healthy, vegan food. First we had the ever-popular Life Cafe, which then opened up a deli on Ship Street; now we have MANA! Fast Slow Food, set up by Bobsy (the founder of Life Cafe and the Bookworm Cafe on Lamma) and Christian, a chef who previously worked with the likes of Alain Ducasse in France.

MANA!’s motto is ‘Eat like it matters’ and specialises in organic, vegan and raw food, with many gluten-free options. Personally, there’s only so much airy-fairy health food I can handle, but when it tastes sooo good, and when I know that every bite I take is filling me with guilt-free goodness, I do get a little bit excited. I have been to MANA! a number of times and think I can safely say that I have tried, if not everything, then at least most things on the menu. In all honesty, there isn’t a single thing I have tried that I really didn’t like; there are things I would not order again (like the Earth Juice, but only because I prefer my beetroot on a plate as opposed to in a glass), but generally I actually have to refrain from going back there most days for fear that the staff might think I’m a little bit obsessed.

Potato and zucchini soup

Starting with the soups, MANA! offers two kinds: the soup of the day that obviously varies depending on the day, and a dhal. Whilst the potato and zucchini soup on this particular day was delicious, light and comforting, I’d recommend going for the dhal, which is beautifully spiced and that little bit more exciting.

Large salad box

The salad selection is also delicious, offering choices such as beetroot and mandarin, grilled vegetables, potato salad and quinoa. Because I eat there fairly often, I would quite like them to offer different options every now and then, but then again, as the old saying goes, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Autumn flatbread

The flatbreads are what MANA! is all about, though. The bread is freshly baked in MANA!’s handmade brick oven, smothered in ‘zaatar’ (a combination of sesame seeds, thyme, sumac and sea salt), filled with all sorts of goodies and then wrapped, ready to go. Try the Autumn Flat filled with grilled haloumi, grilled veggies and rocket. I like to ask them to add a dollop of babaganoush for good measure. If I may make one complaint about the flats, however, it’s that the price seems a little high for what it is. Effectively, the flats are like glorified sandwiches, and I would find it difficult to part with $80 for a sandwich.

Haloumi and tofu burger

The haloumi and tofu burger sadly isn’t as delicious as I had imagined, but then again I was probably imagining something unattainably perfect. The ‘healthy’ fries, however, are dangerously moreish. I think they must call them ‘healthy’ to make you feel slightly less bad about gorging on them.

Raw hazelnut torte and raw chocolate truffle

Definitely save space for dessert, especially as they are healthy desserts! The raw, vegan coconut ice cream is pretty special, whilst the raw hazelnut torte is divine – gooey and intensely chocolatey with an added nutty crunch at the bottom. Though delicious, raw chocolate truffles are rather rich, so all you really need is one little ball of goodness.

It’s not just MANA!’s food that is green; the whole space is built to respect and give back to the environment, with free water, energy-saving lights, water-saving toilets, reclaimed furniture and paper straws (note: make sure you drink your juice before the straw becomes soggy). Considering how un-eco-friendly the majority of Hong Kong is – think of how much energy the light show every evening must waste – I think Bobsy and Christian’s concept is very refreshing. I wonder how long it will take for the rest of the city to follow suit, if at all…

MANA! Fast Slow Food
92 Wellington Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2851 1611

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