Tag Archives: cheesecake

Enomod

22 Apr

the dim sum diaries hong kong

enomod hong kongI had never really heard the term ‘social dining’ used before, yet, assuming, quite rightly, that it had to do with sharing, I knew it had ‘me’ written all over it. This is precisely the term that brand new restaurant Enomod uses to describe its menu, and therefore precisely the reason I knew I must try it.

enomod hong kong

Enomod, which stands for Enoteca Moderna, is a very cool new space on lower Elgin Street. The idea of ‘social dining’ is inspired by a cultural movement that emerged in 1930s America; this concept is reflected in the décor throughout the entire space, where literally every single detail has been thoroughly considered. A single copper pipe runs from the street-level entrance and through the entire restaurant, ‘carrying’ with it people, water, electricity and, most importantly, wine.

The space is divided into five main areas – bar, deli, cellar, lounge and dining room, each area uniquely decorated and equally inviting. Enomod’s distinctive logo, made up of a plate, a spoon, a glass and a bottle, is either engraved or painted everywhere you look, reminding you of the restaurant’s principal concerns: food and wine, the latter, house wine, served only in carafes, further heightening the casual, social feel of the place.

enomod hong kong

The Mediterranean-inspired menu boasts the freshest ingredients, making it impossible to favour one plate over another. When we asked Ermanno, the owner, and Howard, the manager, to suggest some signature dishes for us to try, they said everything was a signature dish and practically brought us everything on the menu; confident, yes, but justifiably so.

enomod hong kong

The menu is broken up into ‘groceries’ and ‘social dining’, each further categorised into cheeses, cold cuts, and so on. Between four of us gluttons, we sampled no less than 18 dishes; I obviously will not bore you with descriptions of each and every one, but I will tell you that if you’re planning a meal at Enomod, go hungry. In fact, go famished, for there is little on the menu you will not want to taste. My only criticism is that a lot of dishes come at once, which can be somewhat overwhelming.

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

I would recommend nibbling on some cardamom-marinated feta with dried dates to begin with, balancing out the sweetness perhaps with some 12 month-aged Serrano ham, and most definitely the Parma ham and fig pizza; this is not a pizza in the strictest sense of the word, given that it has no tomato and the base is soft and doughy pita bread, yet it will melt in your mouth and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, even if you might wish there was just a touch more fig jam on it…

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

The salmon gravalax with crackers and caper relish is divine, marinated in orange zest to excite the taste buds. Equally delicious are the Spanish paprika sardines. Each little filleted morsel of fish is decorated with a slice of lemon, which, eaten whole, together with the fish, serves to bring out the fresh flavours of the sardine and transport you to the Mediterranean.

enomod hong kong

Having never been the greatest fan, while growing up, of capers, olives or anchovies, a puttanesca, naturally, was never my go-to choice of pasta. Now, however, as I know to appreciate the finer things in life, I adored Enomod’s linguini puttanesca; beautifully al dente and wonderfully flavoursome, I could eat this every day.

enomod hong kong

The ‘Social Dining’ section of the menu is split into four categories – woods, stones, coppers and ceramics, referring to the kind of dish the food is served on. From the ‘stones’ section, the charred saffron chicken with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt was good, but would most definitely lose in a game of trumps to the pistachio-crusted lamb rump. This incredible lamb is cooked at 57 degrees over six hours, resulting in meltingly tender meat that may well leave you speechless. Just make sure you eat the lamb as soon as it’s served, as it is definitely best hot (apply the same rule to the roasted seabass).

enomod hong kong

From the ‘coppers’ section, Enomod’s polpette are pretty special too. These are not meatballs as we know and love them; but we certainly do still love them. This very traditional recipe was passed down from Ermanno’s grandmother and comes served with the creamiest of mashed potato and crunchy pine nuts.

enomod hong kong

Even more delicious, however, and perhaps my favourite (savoury) dish of the night, were the blue mussels in white wine sauce. Just make sure you ask for some fresh-from-the-oven focaccia to soak up every drop of the sauce.

On a second visit a few days later (yes, we liked it that much), we tried the wet-aged rib eye. Whilst some argued that the charred taste was not to their liking, I think this completed the dish, giving it a crisp exterior at the same time as a juicy, pink interior. Rub on some roasted garlic and you’re in heaven.

enomod hong kong

For dessert, Enomod currently offers only two options, yet both are unmissable. The tiramisu is like no other you have ever tasted, spiked with Absinthe and spicy peppercorns, yet still maintaining that comforting creaminess. My favourite was the ricotta cheesecake with pistachio, dark chocolate chips and candied orange peel. The contrast of creamy versus crunchy, sweet versus tart, is to die for and will leave you wanting to lick the adorable jar it is served in clean.

With delicious, fresh produce, good service, quirky décor and reasonable prices (the amount of food we ate would have amounted to around $350 per head!), Enomod definitely has what it takes to be a success. Still in soft opening phase, it is packed every night, so I fear the waiting lists once everyone knows about this cool new spot…

Enomod

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 6065

www.facebook.com/Enomod

 

The Pawn

3 Aug

The Pawn Hong Kong

The Pawn has historically had mixed reviews: “the décor and setting are amazing, but the food doesn’t quite match,” they would say. Well, “they”, you can now eat your words (and The Pawn’s food too) for British chef Anthony Fletcher, trained by Tom Aikens, joined the team last year and has successfully thrown some magic into the mix, creating incredible British food that complements the gorgeous setting.

the pawn hong kong

The setting really is gorgeous, housed inside one of Hong Kong’s few remaining heritage buildings.  The Dining Room on the second floor is lovely and cosy, with rustic wooden tables and chairs, and a spacious balcony overlooking the bustling Johnston Road. It has a terribly British feel to it (said in my best Queen’s English accent), which is as far removed as possible from the busy Wan Chai street below.

the pawn hong kong

While we nibbled on some snacks from The Living Room’s menu, we were recommended to try some Puro sparkling rosé from Movia winery in Slovenia. According to The Pawn’s beautiful and extensive Wine Journal (that’s correct: not list, but journal, complete with postcards, quotes and drawings), Ales Kristancic, the owner of Movia winery, is “making some of the strangest and most beautiful wines on the planet.” This particular sparking wine is stored upside down, so that the sediment collects in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is then opened with what looks not too dissimilar to a crow bar, under water; the sediment escapes into the water and you are left with an incredible sparkling rosé that is 100 percent like no other.

the pawn hong kong

Going back to the snacks, the mini fish and chips are lovely, but the fantastic mini Cumberland sausages served alongside them were even better. These are first poached and then fried in a mixture of Worcester sauce and honey. Trust me, you absolutely have to try these.

the pawn hong kong

The Devils on Horseback (for non-Brits: dates wrapped in streaky bacon) were delicious and strangely reminiscent of a crisp British Christmas.

I would seldom order radishes or olives, but Chef Anthony may have made a convert out of me, as both were amazing and begged me to go back for more.

the pawn hong kong

That wasn’t even the first course! Our actual first course began with six beautiful Essex oysters. Oysters, admittedly, are slightly wasted on me, as I never enjoy them enough to back for seconds. For the real oyster lover, however, this is a good thing, as it meant he was able to go back for seconds… and thirds… and fourths.

the pawn hong kong

The skilfully presented 42-degree Butter Poached Salmon was amazingly light and delicate, with the delicious chunks of pickled beetroot and lemon puree really serving to draw out its deeper flavours.

the pawn hong kong

Again something I would never order is asparagus soup; this one however, with its creamy yet rustic texture, was divine, topped with a quail’s egg and crispy shallots to make a wonderful soothing yet summery dish.

the pawn hong kong

I had my eye on the Ham Hock from the moment I looked at the menu. It was layered with chunky dried apricots and served atop a bed of onion purée and mustard fruits. Its gorgeous texture that fell apart in the mouth matched perfectly with the rustic crusty granary bread.

the pawn hong kong

A Rack of Pork served with rustic apple sauce, roast potatoes and gravy was wonderful, yet even better was the 24-hour Berkshire Pork Belly with broad beans and garden peas. When the pork had been cooking for 24 hours, I knew it would be tender, but didn’t quite anticipate how tender and how full of flavour it would be, made the more so by the sweet rhubarb puree that accompanied it.

the pawn hong kong

The Pan roasted sea bass with thin slivers of pickled fennel served on a bed of olive oil mashed potato with green beans and coriander had an ever so slightly Asian flavour to it and a definite summery freshness to match.

the pawn hong kong

First prize would have to go to the Oxtail Cottage Pie. Designed for two to share, this could happily have served all four of us (given how much other food we had!). The slow-cooked oxtail was more than tender, melting at the slightest touch of a fork and infused with red wine and shallots. The Montgomery cheddar potato topping was creamy enough to complement the meat without stealing its thunder.

the pawn hong kong

Somehow we still had room for dessert, starting with a White chocolate and ginger cheesecake with ginger brittle. The cheesecake itself was light and fluffy, verging on the texture of a mousse. The addition of the ginger drew away from the sickly sweetness that I often find with white chocolate.

the pawn hong kong

Next up, carrot cake served with condensed milk ice cream. Although the cake was good, I was actually more impressed with the ice cream, and might even go as far as to say that I think my own carrot cake might be better. Chef Anthony, I challenge you to a carrot cake-off!

the pawn hong kong

We were all surprised that our favourite of the three desserts was the Melon & Strawberry. This is made with vacuum-compressed watermelon and cantaloupe melon, topped with strawberry sorbet. It tasted like a juicier, healthier version of a watermelon Jolly Rancher. It is then finished with chocolate-mint leaves (think After Eight in leaf version) to give it an added refreshing yet decadent touch.

the pawn hong kong

And then came the cheese; if there is a separate stomach for dessert, I think there is a third stomach for cheese. The Pawn’s cheese is flown in from Neal’s Yard in London. Of the four kinds we tried – Isle of Mull cheddar, Ogleshield, Innes goat’s cheese and Cashel Blue – it was the blue cheese, with its rich, creamy texture, that stole my heart.

The Pawn is not just your stereotypical British restaurant. The design is British, many of the ingredients and the flavours are British, but The Pawn goes so much deeper than just bangers and mash, with prices to match – it isn’t cheap as chips, but, really, what did you expect?!

The Pawn

62 Johnston Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2866 3444

www.thepawn.com.hk 

Have a read of my mini-review of The Pawn on Localiiz. You might find other exciting restaurants on there too!

mini dans la ville

8 May

 

 

 

Having made it my mission to check out every single one of The Pemberton’s many restaurants, I confess that I am not doing too well. However, I am one step closer after trying mini dans la ville last week.

mini dans la ville is a rather random spot set up by someone who is clearly far too obsessed with Mini Coopers. The first thing you see as you come in is a real life old-school Mini posing for photos. Once in the restaurant, the walls are dotted with photos and sketches of…you guessed it – Minis! Although a very strange concept, I kind of like it; the design is very fresh and clean, making good use of the space. There’s a glass-fronted bar/deli where you can order a smoothie or a coffee and delicious-looking pastries to go, and then there’s a fairly comprehensive menu offering choices from pastas to burgers to mussels and oysters.

Since we were there at lunch, we went for the set lunch. Ranging from $78 to $158 depending on the main course, the set includes a soup of the day, a main and a drink (with an additional cost for smoothies or juices).

Minestrone soup

The minestrone soup, served in an adorable little bowl, was just the right size and tasted divine. Possibly because mini seems to focus all its energies on the design of the restaurant, I had anticipated very sub-standard food, and in particular expected the soup to taste as if it were out of a tin. However, it was fresh, chunky and well seasoned. My only complaint is that the spaghetti was far too soft.

Spring Chicken

The Spring chicken, normally served with mashed potato, was wonderfully tender and far from dry. The thick gravy could well have been made from a Bisto equivalent powder, but it added to the lightly seasoned flavour of the chicken. Although the waitresses were very accommodating in swapping the mash for veggies, this was just about the only bit of good service we received; the rest of the time they seemed to be on another planet.

Cheeseburger

I opted for a cheeseburger, as it’s important to know how well a restaurant can execute a burger. The first thing I noticed was how enormous the sesame-topped bun was, making my stomach tremble just at the thought of eating it. As my stomach doesn’t take too well to bread, I rarely eat burger buns anyway so this wasn’t a big deal. The part of the bun I did try was wonderfully fluffy, perfect for any normal stomach. As far as the beef patty was concerned, if you like your beef practically still mooing, as I do, then you’d enjoy this burger. It was deliciously soft and smooth, made the more so by the gooey melted cheese. It did lack a little seasoning, but nothing that a sprinkling of salt and pepper couldn’t fix. Though a little pale in colour, the chips were delicious – crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and not too oily.

New York Cheesecake

For an extra $15, you can choose a slice of either New York cheesecake or chocolate cheesecake. Our choice of the New York version was, quite honestly, pretty awful. I’m not sure when it was made, but it didn’t taste fresh at all and had developed a rather off-putting hard crust to it. I normally hate food wastage, especially when it comes to dessert, but this was one dessert I just could not eat.

In summary, mini dans la ville is an interesting new spot that serves mostly decent food at reasonable prices, although the service leaves a lot to be desired. Steer clear of the desserts, but definitely try their fresh juices and smoothies; I had the ‘Fighter’ juice consisting of a delicious blend of apple, lemon, ginger and mango. Will it last? Who knows, but it’s a quirky little place that’s already attracting quite a following, and I think I can safely say there is no other place like it in Hong Kong.

mini dans la ville

UG/F, The Pemberton
22-26 Bonham Strand
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2868 2002

Davis

18 Aug

 

For dinner on Wednesday night, we wanted to explore an area we had not ventured to before, somewhere easy to get to, relaxed and very casual. Davis in Kennedy Town ticked all these boxes.

Run by a lovely couple called Vivien and David, Davis classes itself as a wine and tapas bar. I personally would not categorise the food as tapas at all, as a lot of it is not really designed for sharing, but they certainly do offer some truly delicious down to earth food.

The first thing I was told about Davis was that their homemade cheesecake of the day was a Mars Bar cheesecake. Conveniently I was just on my way to Fiji Fitness when I heard this, so even though I was already stiff from the day before, I knew I had to push myself that little bit harder to make extra cheesecake-space.

The décor is very rustic and cosy: bare-brick walls, stone floor, stone-topped high tables and high wooden stools under a fairly dim light. The blackboard menu in the doorway is enough to draw you in for a very laid back dose of the kind of food that my aching muscles were craving: comfort food.

Between four of us, we decided to share three starters: Deep fried shrimp balls stuffed with blue cheese, Fresh Boston mussels in white wine cream sauce and Baked Portobello mushroom topped with spicy sausages and blue cheese.

Deep fried shrimp balls stuffed with blue cheese

The shrimp balls were definitely not something I would have thought to pair with blue cheese, yet I was pleasantly surprised. Obviously the blue cheese made them fairly salty, but this was balanced by the sweet chilli sauce and fresh watercress, making this really quite an interesting dish and leaving us craving more than just the one ball each.

Boston mussels in white wine cream sauce

This craving soon passed and was replaced by the incredible mussels. They were so fresh and full of flavour, soaked in the delicious creamy white wine sauce, which was the perfect dip for the accompanying garlic bread. I had to resist scooping up the sauce and eating it like a soup.

Baked Portobello mushroom with blue cheese and spicy sausage

The stuffed mushroom was just as delicious, served alongside a goat’s cheese and cherry tomato salad. Again, salty blue cheese, but it was evened out by the sweetness of the salad. My one complaint was that the table was too small for all these dishes, meaning we had to eat the mussels a little too quickly to be able to fully enjoy them before the mushroom stole all the available table space.

For mains, choices ranged from fish and chips, to lamb meatballs to crab, chicken or beef burgers, to a broad selection of pasta and accompanying sauces. Two people chose the penne pasta with chicken and red curry sauce. An interesting combination as the obvious choice for curry is rice, not pasta, but nevertheless a successful pairing and the sauce had a comforting kick to it.

 

Homemade wild mushroom ravioli

The homemade wild mushroom ravioli in a Pernod cream sauce was very fresh and light although a tad too salty for my liking. Fortunately the extra salt was a blessing for my friend who was suffering from a slight cold so her taste buds weren’t as responsive!

Linguini with prawns in spicy tomato sauce

My choice was the Linguini sautéed with prawns in a spicy tomato sauce. If you like a lot of garlic then look no further than this dish as there were a lot of whole lumps of garlic, which I thoroughly enjoyed. It could have done with being a little spicier for my liking but certainly had a little kick. The prawns were fresh but still had their tails on which delayed the eating process ever so slightly.

Portion sizes are very generous at Davis so definitely don’t bother coming if you’re not particularly hungry. Unless of course you are just after the cheesecake, as I would most definitely go again just for the cheesecake!

There were in fact three cheesecake options: butterscotch, amaretto or Mars bar. We were going to have two between the four of us but then realised that it might be rude not to try the third one, so we asked for a small slice of each (they ignored the ‘small’ request and brought us three regular slices!). In increasing order from least favourite to most favourite: the first mouthful of the amaretto one was pleasing but soon became overwhelmingly rich; the butterscotch one was incredible; but the Best Cheesecake Award definitely goes to…. (drum roll please) the Mars Bar one. It had an amazing caramel surprise at the bottom, which oozed out at the touch of a fork. At times like these it’s best not to even consider the caloric intake and just close your eyes and enjoy it. Until tomorrow when I would definitely suggest some hardcore exercise!

The winner: Mars bar cheesecake

Service was exceptional. Vivien came and spoke to us directly several times as she remembered my sister from another restaurant that they used to own on Gough Street. The familiarity and the fact that she even remembered my sister’s name about three years after having last seen her added a personal touch to a delicious and very relaxed meal.

The bill (including no wine but two beers) came to $300 a head, which isn’t cheap as chips but, seriously, those cheesecakes make it 100% worthwhile.

Davis

Shop 7, G/F
Grand Fortune Mansion
1 Davis Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 281 2727

Date visited: Wednesday 17th August 2011

 

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