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Archive | August, 2013

Sawali Club

We all know the phrase “don’t judge a book by its cover.” Much the same can be said about restaurants; what might not be the finest, fanciest-looking establishment could still serve up surprisingly delicious fare. Nowhere is this truer than in Hong Kong, where hidden private kitchens in non-descript buildings, with unsightly décor and awful service offer feasts you are unlikely to forget. Sawali Club, a Thai ‘members only’ (not really) restaurant (of sorts) on the second floor of a commercial building in Wan Chai, is one such example.

The restaurant, run by sweet little Thai ladies (expect to battle with a strong language barrier), spans over three rooms that were perhaps once upon a time someone’s flat. Fold-up tables and stackable chairs cover all available space, so as to seat as many diners as possible in one night; you will get to know neighbouring diners more than you’d like to and will definitely partake in a shouting match in order to make yourself heard. As I said, there is nothing the least bit fancy about Sawali Club, yet its charm shines out from every one of its dirty, flaking, yellow walls.

Food, from the overwhelmingly large menu, comes in no particular order – you may get mains before your starters and rice long before your curries; if you want to start with dessert, I’m sure even this wouldn’t be frowned upon. According to various sources, Sawali Club generally uses a lot of MSG. Thai food is tasty enough as it is and I was pretty keen on actually getting some sleep that night, so a quick word with the only English-speaking waitress and MSG was off our menu.

Our first dish was a beef red curry, which was perfectly flavoured and carried a good level of spice. However, whilst I was lucky with my pieces of meat, others encountered nasty bits of gristle that somewhat lessened the enjoyment.

Plates of Thai-style morning glory and chicken with cashew nuts, two universal favourite dishes, were as good as we had hoped, without being laced with far too much oil.

The charcoal-grilled pork neck, despite not looking too appetising, was a winner. The thinly sliced, super tender pieces of meat had a subtle smoky flavour and were even better when dipped in the chilli soy sauce. The chicken satay also proved popular, both for the generous, tender chunks of chicken and the sweet, creamy peanut sauce, of which there was sadly not enough.

Out of the three salads we tried – squid, green mango and pomelo – the latter was by far the best, offering the perfect contrast of sweet versus spicy and juicy versus crunchy that amazed us all. It was without question one of the best pomelo salads I have ever tasted.

Despite receiving looks of disgust from the boys when we ordered, the fried tofu with basil and chilli impressed even them. Under the crisp outer layer of tofu was a beautiful, silky interior that absorbed all the delicious flavours of the dish.

The deep-fried soft-shell crab, for being the most expensive dish on the menu, seemed slightly stingy a portion, once you’d delved under the piles of crispy garlic, chilli and basil leaves. Get in there quick, as if you can actually claim one of the few pieces of crab, you definitely won’t regret it.

My favourite dish of the night was the fried yellow curry with prawns. The sauce, thickened with egg, was deliciously rich and creamy, loaded with giant, perfectly bouncy prawns. Despite having had more than my fair share, it was impossible to resist scooping up spoonful after spoonful of the delicious sauce straight from the bowl.

Amongst other less appealing options, dessert was either mango sticky rice, or mango sticky rice birthday cake… Unfortunately we had no birthdays around the table, but we didn’t let this get in the way of our fun; the lights were dimmed, music started blaring and our lovely waitresses began to serenade our ‘birthday girl’ with a hilarious rendition of Thai style Happy Birthday. Taste-wise, it was no more special than the next mango sticky rice, but it was definitely worth pretending it was someone’s birthday just to see this show!

For a ridiculous amount of food and several large bottles of beer (there is no corkage on BYO wine), we each paid a mere $200. Aside from our helpful English-speaking waitress and the ‘birthday’ entertainment, service can only be described as terrible. I can’t help but think, however, that this is all part of the experience at Sawali Club, an experience that I wouldn’t object to trying again.

Sawali Club

2/F, Wing Cheong Building
18-20 Hennessy Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2811 2360

Tags: curry, hennessy road, hong kong, private kitchen, salad, satay, sawali club, soft shell crab, thai food, thailand, Wan Chai

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Categories Cheap and cheerful, Private kitchen, Restaurant review

Tokio Joe

27 Aug

Located slap bang in the centre of Lan Kwai Fong, Tokio Joe has been pleasing its customers with its “stylish Japanese food” for over a decade, always managing to fill its seats, no matter what day of the week it is.

Having been only once in my three years back in Hong Kong, an invitation arose and I jumped at the chance to go again and see if it truly was as good as I remembered.

The space, despite being larger than I initially anticipated, remains cosy and effortlessly chic, with dark wood, dim lighting and of course the central sushi bar, where diners can watch the sushi-chefs-cum-artists hard at work.

To ease us in to the meal, we were first presented with a bowl of lightly salted edamame and a tomato salad drizzled in a tangy, garlicky soy sauce. The tomatoes were wonderfully fresh and ripe, making this very simple dish shine, before we had even tried anything from the menu.

Continuing with the salad theme, our first starter proper was a toro usu salad. Wafer-thin slices of super tender tuna belly were served with fresh, crunchy leaves and a light balsamic vinaigrette, creating an interesting blend of eastern and western flavours that came together perfectly.

Following this, a beautiful sashimi and sushi combo was laid before us, including sweet prawns, salmon and hamachi sashimi, uni sushi, tuna stuffed with spicy avocado sauce and spicy sushi cakes. Each bite was incredibly fresh and light, highlighting the sheer quality of Tokio Joe’s seafood. Whilst we were a little disappointed by the mildness of the ‘spicy’ avocado sauce, the spicy sushi cake, made with minced salmon, tuna and spicy rice, was by far our favourite.

The spicy toro tartar, justifiably one of Tokio Joe’s most popular dishes, was incredible. Little parcels of finely minced tuna, crunchy flakes and spicy sauce are wrapped up in crisp lettuce leaves, creating an explosion of flavours and textures that will more than wow you.

Moving onto the main courses, the kelp-grilled sea bass, another of the restaurant’s signature dishes, was divine. The fish, marinated in miso, was remarkably tender and had a subtle, sweet flavour, enhanced by the slightly spicy sichiminaise. I wasn’t such a fan of the pickled carrot, but it was probably designed as more of a garnish than part of the dish (greedy? Me?).

The beef goma fumi, grilled beef served in a sweet sesame sauce, was also delicious, even if a couple of pieces of beef were a little on the chewy side.

In case we hadn’t eaten enough yet, we decided to order a half portion of the house special rolls (soft shell crab, avocado and crab roe) and the dynamite rolls (similar but with tempura shrimp). Both varieties, although rather alike, packed a lot of flavour yet were light and far too easy to eat, despite almost bursting at the seams.

Dessert was not your predictable green tea or sesame flavoured ice cream – instead, it was a refreshing medley of fresh fruit, nate de coco and pineapple and mandarin sorbets, each beautifully presented in its own skin and serving as the perfect end to a wonderful meal.

The excellent service at Tokio Joe comes with a smile, even when the restaurant is at capacity. Prices, including a carafe of sake, might give you a little shock (approximately $800+ per person), but for the quality and flavour of the food, they won’t be enough to scare you away from a repeat visit.

Tokio Joe

16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2525 1889

www.tokiojoe.com

Tags: hong kong, lan kwai fong, sashimi, sushi, tokio joe, tuna tartar

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Categories Bars, Posh grub, Restaurant review

Porto Fino

23 Aug

Everyone loves the Mediterranean - the beautiful sea, the blue skies, the friendly people, the lively yet laid back feel… but most importantly, the food. There is always something wholesome and comforting about Mediterranean food that is vibrantly colourful and laced with rich olive oil. Porto Fino, a newish restaurant and grocery store on Old Bailey Street is bringing the flavours of Spain, Italy and Portugal to Hong Kong.

The space is inviting, with an open front overlooking the street, perfect for people watching. The entrance is lined with freshly baked bread, before you step into the colourful grocery store, where shelves are stacked full of pastas, sauces, coffee and other delicious treats. Entering further into the restaurant, leads you to a lovely, bright space that makes the most of the long yet narrow room.

We began our meal with a generous portion of char-grilled chorizo. These wafer-thin slices of authentic Spanish chorizo, served on crusty bread, were rich and salty, without being overly so, and went down a treat with our berry caiproskas.

To follow came some perfectly bouncy grilled scallops, topped with carrot puree, raisins and bacon. The flavour of the scallops alone was a little on the mild side, yet thankfully the salty bacon and sweet raisins completed the dish, bringing out some deeper flavours.

For no other reason than because we were curious (and perhaps a touch gluttonous too), we ordered a third starter of mushroom and truffle oil soup. Decadent and rich are the only words to describe this soup; the moment it was laid before us, the strong, heavenly aroma of the truffle oil filled the air. Unfortunately, the richness outweighed the deliciousness and we could barely make a dent in our respective bowls.

Moving on to main courses, one of Porto Fino’s signature dishes is the Espetada, a huge beef and tiger prawn skewer, suspended from a gigantic metal frame. Despite asking for medium-rare beef and getting closer to well done, it was still beautifully tender, pairing well with the slightly crispy braised rice and the equally tender and fresh prawn, making it completely deserved of its signature status.

My personal favourite, however, was the grilled ‘bacalhau’. Cod, done well, isn’t widely found in HK, yet this one, with its lovely flaky, delicate texture, generously drizzled in olive oil and served with ‘punched’ potatoes (crisp on the outside and wonderfully fluffy on the inside), sautéed asparagus and slightly tart confit cherry tomatoes, was delicious, and definitely one I would order again.

Dessert was a girl-sized (as requested) portion of warm chocolate brownie. This flourless, gooey dessert was more of a cake than a brownie (and a very rich one at that, made with 85% chocolate), yet it served its purpose of providing a sweet end to a pleasant meal. The cinnamon-topped vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce was a bonus, even if the berry sauce was a touch unnecessary.

Service at Porto Fino is exceptional, to the point where you start to wonder if perhaps it is a little too efficient, with waiters almost watching your every move. With its relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere and scrumptious Mediterranean ingredients just a stone’s throw away from bustling Soho, Porto Fino offers something different to so many HK restaurants. Therefore, hopefully, despite its $500+ price tag per head, it might just stand a chance of sticking around.

Porto Fino

28 Old Bailey Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2668 0430

Tags: bacalhau, chorizo, cocktails, espetada, french, grocery store, hong kong, italian, Mediterranean, porto fino, portuguese, scallops, Spanish

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Categories Bars, Posh grub, Restaurant review, Vegetarian

La Viola

20 Aug

As the completion date for the new MTR stations draws nearer, the up and coming neighbourhood of Sai Ying Pun continues to draw in restaurateurs, eager to get a foot in the door before rental prices rocket. The newest kid on the block is La Viola, an elegant bar and restaurant specialising in ‘southern European’ cuisine.

The quaint little restaurant, located at Island Crest is just what the neighbourhood needs: a place to go for a slightly more fancy dinner or drinks into the early hours. The French windows that run the length of the entire restaurant allow diners to spill out onto the street, something we know Hong Kongers seem to love to do, particularly during cooler climes.

Inside, contrasting shades of light grey and dark brown lead you past the bar, into the intimate restaurant, adorned with ornate grey wallpaper and high fan-clad ceilings, evocative of a grand Italian dining room.

The menu, although predominantly Italian, given the Italian consultant chef behind it, takes inspiration from other European cuisines, therefore allowing it the broader classification of ‘southern European’ food. The first of our starters was a goat’s cheese salad with beetroot, green apple and caramelised walnuts, a gorgeous marriage of fresh flavours and contrasting textures. I took a particular liking to the crunchy layer of caramel atop the creamy goat’s cheese, adding an unusual yet very pleasant sweetness to the dish.

The pan-seared foie gras with apple puree, ripasso red onion and Port sauce lacked the richness usually associated with foie gras; perhaps this would make it tolerable for those who aren’t particularly keen on foie gras, but for me there was definitely something missing.

The Kobe beef carpaccio with rocket, Parmesan and black truffle was immediately appealing to the eye, given its beautiful presentation and vivid colours. Whilst the beef was wonderfully tender, on its own it didn’t score particularly highly on taste. Thankfully, however, the rich truffle, sweet Parmesan and peppery rocket worked to bring out the beef’s deeper flavours and created a winning dish.

One of La Viola’s most popular dishes is apparently the seafood linguini, and quite rightly too. The pasta was perfectly al dente, laden with fresh mussels, clams, king prawns and fish, and then gently kissed with a delicious seafood sauce, which had a hint of creaminess, whilst still remaining light and fresh, so as not to steal the seafood’s thunder.

From the daily specials menu, we ordered the seared tuna with anchovy sauce, olive paste and mashed potato. The tuna could not have been fresher if we had eaten it straight off the fishing line. However, although the olive paste was not unpleasant, I felt it overpowered the taste of the tuna and wasn’t 100 percent necessary.

Without a doubt, the dish that stands out the most in my memory is the grilled lamb rack with basil crust, tahini, confit tomato and char-grilled baby corn. The lamb was cooked to utter tender perfection, melting beautifully in the mouth, and each accompanying ingredient, particularly the smoky tahini, served to make it even more delicious.

Moving onto the desserts, the banana pudding with toffee sauce and chocolate ice cream was an interesting choice. Although the taste of banana was lost amidst the nutmeg and I couldn’t help but think of Christmas, it did have a lovely, comforting texture that would have benefitted from just a touch more toffee sauce.

The daily dessert on the night of our visit was a crème brûlée. Given the satisfying thickness of the caramel layer on the goat’s cheese starter, we were expecting something similar on this dessert, but unfortunately the layer was wafer thin and barely uttered a ‘crack’. The crème itself was delicious, however, infused with plenty of real vanilla pods.

Finally, although the warm chocolate fondant looked slightly shorter and wider than we are used to seeing, it had the perfect level of ooze to satisfy any fondant fanatic.

A three-course meal at La Viola, without drinks, costs around $400-500 per person. Service is efficient and friendly, where staff actually enjoy what they are doing, helping to make your dining experience even more enjoyable. All in all, I was pleasantly surprised by La Viola and can imagine that, given both its enviable location and tasty food, it will continue to do well.

La Viola

G/F, Island Crest
Second Street
Sai Ying Pun
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2503 3325

Tags: carpaccio, chocolate fondant, creme breulee, European, european cuisine, foie gras, goats cheese, hong kong, island crest, la viola, lamb rack, pasta, sai ying pun

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Categories Bars, Posh grub, Restaurant review, Vegetarian

Chachawan

14 Aug

Warning: If you can’t handle your spice, stop reading now and don’t even think about eating at Chachawan!

Thai food is up there amongst the best in the world in my opinion. It’s what I crave when I need something hearty and comforting; it’s what I crave when I’m feeling under the weather; it’s generally what I crave a great deal of the time.

There are Thai restaurants and there are Thai restaurants, yet there are no Thai restaurants quite like Chachawan, a brand spanking new, uber cool Thai restaurant in Sheung Wan, specialising in Isaan cuisine, from the northeast of Thailand. In this regional version of the tasty cuisine, coconut milk is pushed aside, making room for hotter, bolder, drier flavours that fall in line with the warning on the menu that states, “Isaan cuisine is VERY SPICY.”

Chachawan, which fittingly translates to “sweet, sweet love,” is brought to us by Yenn Wong, the restaurateur behind next-door neighbour 208 Duecento Otto, 22 Ships and Duddell’s, and chef Adam Cliff, who has previously worked with the likes of Nahm’s David Thompson and Dylan Jones of Bangkok’s Bo.lan, all by the young age of 26! It makes me wonder, at the same age as Adam, what I’ve accomplished in my life!

The décor is unusual in comparison to your average Thai place – a raw, rustic feel is achieved through the use of vintage Hong Kong-style posters with Thai illustrations, or eye-catching murals, all of which matches the fun vibe expressed through the loud music that reverberates around the two floors of dining, split between table seating and bar seating.

As I may have mentioned once or twice, Chachawan isn’t for the wusses; although the menu states you can ask them to “tame it”, the dishes are designed to be hot hot hot, particularly the papaya salad with crispy pork. The heat in no way overpowers this dish, however, as the super fresh flavours seep through each bite, complemented by the awesome contrast in textures. Unlike other versions of this dish, the overriding flavour is neither fish sauce nor dried shrimp, but the beautiful blend of sweet and sour tamarind dressing that plays against the salty chunks of crisp pork belly.

The Lap Moo, a salad of minced pork, shallots, fresh herbs and crispy pork skin, also packed a serious punch. This dish, bursting with fresh, sour versus spicy flavours, has always been one of my favourites, and Chachawan’s version was just as good as I had hoped it would be, if not better.

An unusual choice, yet one that beckoned to us, was the Kai Jiaw – a crisp Thai omelette with pork and spring onions. Perhaps one of the only non-spicy dishes on the menu on its own, load it up with the Thai chilli sauce that accompanies it and it’ll fit right into the mix. The egg had the perfect balance of crisp and fluffiness, packed full of delicious Thai herbs that made it almost seem healthy and light.

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the salt-crusted sea bass stuffed with lemongrass, pandanas and lime leaves. This whole, deliciously tender fish was cooked over an open fire, giving it a gorgeous smoky flavour that worked well with the slightly sour green chilli dipping sauce. It was probably enough to feed the 500, although we gave it a pretty good go between just two of us!

This did, unfortunately, mean less room for the khao pad, a delicious variation of the classic Thai fried rice dish, but in this case made with fresh crabmeat. Carrying a delicate, yet comforting flavour, this dish was lovely on its own, yet also worked as the perfect accompaniment to mop up the rich sauces of the other dishes.

After a complimentary plate of juicy pomelo served with chilli sugar (yes, even some of the dishes you’d least expect to set your tongue on fire attempt to do exactly that), came our final dish – warm coconut rice dumplings served in salted coconut cream. Biting into these soft dumplings gave way to refreshing, crispy chunks of sweet coconut that easily made this dessert one of the best things on Chachawan’s menu. If you’re a fan of things like salted chocolate or salted caramel, this is Thailand’s variation on the same theme, and a jolly good one at that.

For far too much food than we could manage, the total bill for two of us came to just over $800, including two mocktails (at the time of writing the restaurant is still awaiting its liquor licence). Service charge is not added to the bill, and yet staff are incredibly friendly and helpful, making you want to tip generously. Given its solid attempt at fitting in with our city’s other new and trendy eateries, Chachawan, naturally, has a no-reservations policy; go early, and have a drink next door, no matter how long the expected wait is, for this is one Thai restaurant that is has earned its right to have a long waiting list.

Chachawan

206 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2549 0020

Tags: 208, 22 Ships, adam cliff, bangkok, bo.lan, chachawan, chilli, david thompson, duddell's, dylan jones, hollywood road, nahm, sheung wan, spicy food, thai cuisine, yenn wong

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Categories Bars, Cheap and cheerful, Posh grub, Restaurant review

A Very Grand (Hyatt) Staycation and Brunch at Grissini

13 Aug

No matter how much we love our beautiful city, with its fast-paced lifestyle and endless variety of things to do, every so often it can get a little too much and we begin to plan all kinds of escapes. Being so close to tropical Southeast Asian getaways, it’s not difficult to jump on a plane in search of a tranquil beach; but if time or budget don’t allow for such luxuries, a staycation at the Grand Hyatt may just be the next best thing.

During perhaps the only sunny weekend in June, I was invited to stay at the Grand Hyatt with a friend, where we of course made the most of its beautiful sun-drenched pool (in fact the largest outdoor hotel pool in Hong Kong), super relaxing spa facilities and, most importantly its wide selection of restaurants.

The main aim of the staycation was to showcase the hotel’s recent adoption of a new enhanced guest experience scheme, in line with the Hyatt group’s global vision: to offer better options and amenities for guests, particularly women, making each stay completely hassle-free. These new initiatives include everything from lighter options at each of the restaurants, to yoga mats and free weights available in your room, to even the option of borrowing things like hair straighteners or curling irons if you left them at home! All in all, things that truly make this hotel stand out and make you feel genuinely looked after.

Moving back to the food, whilst the enormous buffet spread for dinner at Tiffin Lounge was both impressive and delicious (whatever you do, do NOT fill up on foie gras before you’ve tried the homemade gelato bar), and our gourmet selection for breakfast in the VIP Club Lounge (that’s how I roll these days) was more than satisfying, the real star at the Grand Hyatt is without a doubt Grissini, so it is inevitable that my review about my stay at the Grand Hyatt was always going to focus on this.

Brunch, as we know, is part of the way of life in Hong Kong – what is there not to love about a meal that combines all the best elements of breakfast and lunch, paired with glass after glass of bubbles? Having previously tried the brunch at the Hyatt’s poolside Grill and deemed it far too hot for a sunny June day, we booked a large table at Grissini for Sunday brunch with a group of friends.

The name obviously comes from the traditional Italian breadsticks we all know and love. These, however, are not just any grissini; these are probably the biggest and doughiest grissini you have ever seen. I challenge you to try to resist reaching for one and see how you fare. Remember, however, the vast array of food you will have already walked past to reach your table, and you might want to hold back…at least slightly.

The first thing you’ll see as you enter the restaurant is a colourful selection of freshly baked flatbreads topped with all sorts of delicious Mediterranean ingredients. Move a little further into the room and you have before you platter after platter of delicious cured meats, creamy Italian cheeses and colourful salads.

Beyond this, and perhaps the highlight of my day, was the pasta cooking station – a huge table offering all kinds of fresh pasta, ingredients and sauces; simply tell the chef what you’d like and you will have your own unique pasta dish created before you. Ignore what some brunch amateurs may tell you about avoiding carbs to make room for other food; when there in front of you lies a PASTA STATION, it would be utterly foolish to miss out.

I would suggest not going too crazy on the pasta, however, as a little further into the restaurant you have the option of not only succulent roast beef with all the trimmings, but also a table boasting pots of mussels, clams, prawns, stewed lobster, Italian sausage stew…if you’re of the same mentality as me, at these sorts of meals it is imperative to try at least a morsel of everything on offer, so serve yourself wisely; you can always (and indeed will always) go back for more.

Regardless of how full one may be at this point (not helped by the numerous glasses of prosecco one may have consumed), take a look at the display of desserts and, out of the depths of your being, that much-loved second stomach will appear, making room for chocolate cake, hazelnut and chocolate torte, cannoli, panna cotta, tiramisu, ice cream, fruit and other tasty treats you never thought you’d have room for.

Service at Grissini, in the same way as throughout the entire hotel, was excellent. Staff are friendly and ensured that we never saw the bottom of our prosecco or wine glasses. Including unlimited prosecco, wine and soft drinks, brunch costs $798 per person ($658 without drinks) – not something we can afford every weekend, but as a treat every so often, or as the perfect end to a lovely, relaxing holiday without even needing to travel anywhere, Grissini would definitely be up there amongst my favourite brunches in Hong Kong.

If you’re interested in having your own little staycation at the Grand Hyatt, take advantage of its 8-2-8 deal. For HK$828 per person, this includes:

- One night’s accommodation overlooking the beautiful harbour
- Early check in from 8am
- Late check out the following day at 8pm
- Breakfast buffet for two at Grand Café (either on the day of arrival or the following morning)
- Access to the pool, 24-hour fitness centre and sauna facilities
- Complimentary parking for one vehicle

And whilst you’re there, if you’re feeling hungry for brunch, you know where to go…

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong

1 Harbour Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2588 1234
Email: [email protected]

http://hongkong.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

Tags: brunch, dessert, grand hyatt, grand hyatt hong kong, grissini, harbour, hotel, italian, pasta, roast beef, tiffin lounge, view, Wan Chai

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Categories Brunch, Making a difference, Posh grub, Restaurant review

Tramshed, London

7 Aug

Cows and chickens have played a large part in my life recently, starting with Jason Black’s wonderful cookbook COW PIG CHICKEN. Needless to say, when, on a recent jaunt back to London, I heard about Tramshed, a restaurant specialising in solely cow and chicken (not sure what they have against poor pigs), I thought it quite a fitting choice for dinner.

Tramshed, in the heart of uber trendy Shoreditch, is the seventh restaurant opened by renowned chef, restaurateur and food writer Mark Hix. As you may be able to gather from its name, the grade-II listed building was once an electricity generating station for trams; its toweringly high ceilings and steel arches also give testament to this. The main focal point as soon as you enter the vast restaurant, however, is the specially commissioned piece of artwork by Damien Hirst: a giant formaldehyde-filled tank containing a real cow and chicken. Just in case anyone is still unsure what this place is all about, at the back of the restaurant, a huge painting (also by Damien Hirst) of the cartoon Cow and Chicken adorns the wall of the mezzanine level.

The menu, of course, is pretty much limited to cow and chicken. The starters (designed for sharing) change on a regular basis, whilst the main courses consist of either chicken or steak (for one or to share) with a range of sides to go with either. There are of course vegetarian options if you insist on being difficult, but, generally speaking, if you don’t love a bit of chicken or steak then perhaps Tramshed just isn’t the place for you.

To begin, we couldn’t resist ordering the Yorkshire pudding with whipped chicken livers. Living in Hong Kong, Yorkshire puds are not something I regularly come across, which made this gloriously crispy yet doughy pud even more of a treat. Who cares if the deliciously smooth, rich chicken pate served alongside it made the whole dish even more unhealthy – it tasted wonderful and that’s surely all that matters, right?!

To chase this, we each had a shooter of pea and ham soup. Served chilled, it was refreshingly minty and light, topped with crispy pork crackling, making it the perfect prelude to the chicken and steak feast that was to come.

Wanting to make sure we tried a bit of both animals, we opted for individual portions of each. Having had pre-starters at Callooh Callay down the road before our actual starters (fatties), the individual portions stretched more than far enough to serve as sharing portions for two. Tramshed’s chickens come from the village of Goosnargh in Lancashire, where they are apparently treated and fed like royalty, resulting in “memorable poultry that really is a joy to eat.” I concur; the interestingly presented spring chicken was succulent and flavoursome without even a hint of dryness. I rarely order chicken in a restaurant, given that it is one of the easiest things to cook at home, yet I would certainly order this one again.

The Glenarm ‘Mighty Marbled’ sirloin steak was even better, however – beautifully tender, sweet and flavoursome, achieved through dry-ageing it in a Himalayan salt chamber.

Sides of Scrumpy fried onions, minted peas and broad beans, as well as the chips that came with the steak, were the perfect complement to all of the above. I’m not usually an onion ring kind of girl, yet these slightly sweet, not too heavy rings of goodness were decidedly moreish.

To finish, despite the food babies that were quickly growing inside us, we stuck to what we had already decided at the beginning of the meal: that the Cornish salted caramel fondue needed to be tasted. A cute ceramic pot of bubbling salted caramel sat atop a tealight candle, alongside fluffy homemade marshmallows and crispy doughnut chunks – yes, it was every bit as delicious and indulgent as it sounds!

Service at Tramshed was spectacular, as our friendly waiter offered us recommendations and personal tips to make every bit of our meal all the more enjoyable. One thing that mildly annoyed me, however, is the fact that a 10% service charge was automatically added to the bill – something that, unlike in HK, UK restaurants never used to do. We obviously would have been more than willing to tip generously had it been our choice, but having this choice taken away from us left a slightly sour taste. Regardless, for a satisfying meal of this calibre, washed down with a bottle of ‘Tramshed Red’, we paid £48 (approx HKD570) each, which, given how much a similar restaurant would charge in HK, wasn’t unreasonable at all. Tramshed, you really know how to make those cows and chickens of the world truly shine, thank you.*

Tramshed

32 Rivington Street
London
EC2A 3LX
UK

Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 0478

www.chickenandsteak.co.uk

*Apologies to all the food photo critics out there – I get frowned upon every time I get my Canon out in the UK, so these are quick low-light iPhone snaps that clearly do not do the food any justice!

Tags: bar, callooh callay, chicken, cow, cow pig chicken, damien hirst, Jason Black, london, shoreditch, steak, tramshed, Yorkshire pudding

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Categories Bars, DSD on tour, London, Posh grub, Restaurant review

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