Tag Archives: foie gras

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

4 Mar

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Whoever thinks five-course meals can only be enjoyed in the evening needs to go to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon for lunch. Ignore the fact that you will without fail enter into a deep food-coma post lunch, as dining in this three Michellin-starred French resto is more than worth it.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

The restaurant is split into three sections: L’atelier, where diners eat around an open kitchen; Le Jardin, a beautiful dining room; and The Terrace, exactly what it says on the tin. We ate in L’atelier, a gorgeous room decorated with red velvet and dark wood, giving it an elegant and chic look. From wherever you’re seated, you can watch the skilled chefs, led by executive chef Olivier Elzer, prepare your meal with utter passion and precision.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

At Robuchon, they have thought of every little detail, where even the bread basket seriously impressed me. Provided you ask them in advance, they can also make some incredible gluten-free bread. I was almost full from the delicious bread and lobster amuse bouche before the real meal started!

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Moving on to the starters, the Maine lobster salad was just perfect. Each morsel of lobster was wonderfully meaty, complemented by the variety of other textures at play: creamy avocado coulis, soft tofu, crisp lettuce and buttery fresh avocado. I was in lobster heaven.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

The foie gras was equally divine and so amazingly smooth. Paired with lemon foam and lemon marmalade, one bite of this made you want to close your eyes and revel in the moment.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

We both turned down the cauliflower soup and tried the chicken broth. I would certainly not call this a broth, as it was thick and creamy, but I would most definitely call it delicious. Not only was there an amazing Parmesan crisp topped with black truffle atop the soup, but in the depths of the broth were more black truffle surprises.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Moving on to the seafood course, the grilled sea bass with Parmesan cheese foam, artichoke puree and Wagyu beef crisps was heavenly. I’m normally not overly impressed with ‘foam’ in dishes, but this really wowed us and truly brought out the delicate flavours of the fish.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Even better, however, were the pan-seared scallops with ginger and fregola pasta. The scallops were cooked to bouncy perfection, contrasting wonderfully with the nutty, almost couscous-esque fregola pasta.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Turkey is something I usually reserve for Christmastime; it’s not the most exciting of meats and can often be dry and dull. This turkey stuffed with foie gras, served with chestnuts, pancetta and black truffle, however, was far from dull.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

The winning dish for me was the rack of lamb: perfectly tender and pink with a delicious herb crust and of course more black truffle.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Both dishes were served with a bowl of the creamiest, most incredible mashed potato you ever will taste. Mix in the black truffle and you will want for nothing more.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

There was somehow still space for dessert, both of which were gobbled up within seconds, regardless of how full we both were. La Citronelle, a beautiful medley of lemongrass ice cream with citrus fruits, lemon cream and cassis coulis was refreshing and light, the perfect end to a super rich meal.

l'atelier de joel robuchon hong kong

Le Chocolat Tentation was the opposite of light but I’m definitely not complaining. Chocolate cream, topped with chocolate cookies, chocolate ice cream and dark chocolate – this is any chocolate lover’s dream.

A five-course meal at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon will set you back $688. Granted it’s not a cheap lunch, but for an excellent three Michellin-starred world-famous restaurant with superior service and quality of food, I actually don’t think it’s too unreasonable. There are also three-course and four-course options, but trust me, you’ll want to eat as much of the menu as you can possibly manage. Just make sure you save a tiny corner of stomach space for the petits fours.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Shop 401, The Landmark
15 Queen’s Road Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2166 9000

www.robuchonhk.com

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The Peak Lookout

25 Feb

the dim sum diaries hong kong

the peak lookout hong kong

The Peak Lookout has always been one of my favourite spots in Hong Kong. There is something cosy and wonderful about the timeless, homely setting that keeps drawing people in, whether they are tourists, locals or expats.

the peak lookout hong kong

Once a resting place for sedan chair carriers, this Grade II historic building has served as a restaurant since 1947, then known as the Peak Café, before re-emerging under its current name in 2001. I have been eating there for as long as I can remember, lured in by the quaint traditional building, the beautiful views over the south side and of course the incredible tandoori dishes, amongst others.

the peak lookout hong kong

As both the venue and the menu have recently undergone a revamp, I was invited to try some of the new dishes, as well as a few classics. No matter what you’re in the mood for, it’s likely it will be on the menu – from incredibly fresh seafood, to pasta, to burgers, to curry. Whilst some eclectic menus can be a little overwhelming and not offer much in the way of quality, this is not at all true of The Peak Lookout; the attention to detail and quality of each section of the menu is spot on.

the peak lookout hong kong

Our tasting menu* began with a Peak Lookout maki roll, starting the meal on a high. The soft shell crab was perfectly crispy and fresh, paired with buttery avocado and crab roe.

the peak lookout hong kong

The classic beef carpaccio, served with rocket and shaved Parmesan, all drizzled in honey mustard dressing, was divine, each morsel melting like butter in the mouth.

the peak lookout hong kong

When a huge slab of pan-seared foie gras arrived before me, I was in heaven. Slightly crisp on the outside and silky smooth on the inside, this foie gras was utterly faultless, served with homemade apple chutney and sweet Madeira sauce to cut through the fat. Although I sometimes feel a slight pang of guilt when eating foie gras (admittedly for the calories as opposed to the animal’s suffering), this dish was totally worth the guilt.

the peak lookout hong kong

I’m not always enamoured with Tom Yum Goong, as the sweet versus sour combination doesn’t really work for me. Therefore, although this was not my favourite dish of the evening, it was definitely one of the better tom yum goongs I have tasted, full of fresh seafood with a significant fiery kick.

the peak lookout hong kong

As I’ve already mentioned, a trip to The Peak Lookout for me is not complete without some tandoori. I usually opt for chicken, but the tandoori sea bass may just be my new favourite choice. The fleshy chunks of fish were perfectly flaky and bursting with flavour. My only regret was not being able to finish my serving after all the other dishes!

the peak lookout hong kong

Just like magic, however, there was of course space for dessert. The tiramisu is apparently the restaurant’s best-selling dessert, and I can completely see why; it is light and fluffy, without an overpowering taste of coffee.

The bread and butter pudding was also divine, although slightly heavier and definitely one for sharing. I would normally expect buckets of custard to be served with my pudding, yet this one was moist enough on its own to not require it.

Service at The Peak Lookout reflects the elegance and charm of the setting; it is excellent. Prices aren’t pretty, with a three-course meal likely to cost you at the very least $500. Yet take a moment to reflect on your surroundings and the rich history behind the building, and you’ll soon realise that this is a pretty special place.

* Note, the dishes I have photographed were designed for a multiple-course tasting menu and do not necessarily reflect the true sizes of the dishes from the a la carte menu.

The Peak Lookout

121 Peak Road
The Peak
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2849 1000

www.peaklookout.com.hk

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22 Ships

4 Feb

4_oh

 

 

22 Ships Hong Kong

 

The hype about Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships reached me months before it actually opened, yet what with all the Christmas and end of year celebrations that seem to last far longer here than anywhere else, I have only just managed to give it a try.

Slightly put off by the no reservations policy that seems to have peeved quite a few people about town, and with absolutely no desire to queue for hours, we arrived at 5.45, putting us second in line for the 6pm opening time.

The focus is on the central open kitchen, around which you’ll find the best seats in the house; there’s something about watching your food being carefully prepared, with close attention to detail, that makes it even more exciting when it comes to actually eating it.

The menu, which also serves as your placemat, is inspired by Spanish tapas, given Atherton’s background at elBulli. However, this isn’t tapas as we know it; this is modern, fancy tapas that will definitely make your taste buds tingle.

22 ships hong kong

 

Even 22 Ships’ sangria is fancy, topped with a thick foam and somehow not as sweet and sickly as sangria often can be.

22 Ships hong kong

To look at, the Salt cod brandade ortiz, wasn’t exactly what I was expecting, yet to taste, it was heavenly: a beautiful, creamy dip made of salt cod with anchovy and herb paste, topped with olive oil and avocado. I could have eaten it straight from the bowl with a spoon, yet of course it also worked with the crisp bread it came with.

22 ships hong kong

From the specials menu, the tea cured salmon with rock melon and daikon was perfect. Each bite of salmon was flavoursome and unbelievably tender. Having been cured in tea as opposed to smoked, it didn’t have that strong, overpowering flavour, but rather was light and delicate, pairing perfectly with the sweet melon and creamy avocado.

22 ships hong kong

A side dish of peas, broad beans, goats curd, Iberico ham and mint dressing was light and fresh, but nothing to write home about. The occasional mint leaf we came across brought some excitement to the dish, so it definitely could have done with a few more of these.

22 ships hong kong

Absolutely incredible, were the char grilled Iberico pork & foie gras burgers. You might expect this combination to be far too rich and salty, yet these beauties were utterly perfect, the flavours balanced by the fluffy, slightly sweet homemade bun.

22 ships hong kong

The suckling pig was also divine. Having found Hong Kong’s best suckling pig a few weeks ago at Manor, my expectations were low. However, although the two are completely different styles and cannot be compared, I think I may have found a close contender. The meat was unbelievably tender, served with roasted apple, piquillo peppers and red pepper-infused roast pineapple. I’m not normally a fan of cooked pineapple, yet this one, paired with the salty, succulent pork was amazing.

22 ships hong kong

For dessert, we opted for the olive oil brioche with chocolate ganache and sea salt. Concerned as to whether or not this would actually come together, we were pleasantly surprised when we combined each component and realised that of course it did. I particularly loved the pistachio ice cream and whole pistachio nuts, which neutralised the richness of the ganache.

One thing I didn’t like about 22 Ships was the feeling they gave us that they were trying to get rid of us; the dishes came out all at once to the point that we had to tell them to slow down. This must be their way of trying to get as many covers as possible on one night. Once they realised we weren’t in a rush to leave, however, service was good and the staff were friendly, which, combined with their no service charge policy, encouraged us to tip generously.

Much has been commented on about the cost of 22 Ships; no, it isn’t cheap. Yet neither is it extortionate; for our meal, we paid less than $400 each, including a tip. Remember that this lively, delicious restaurant has Jason Atherton’s name behind it, so it never was going to be cheap, was it?!

22 Ships

22 Ship Street
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 0722

www.22ships.hk

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Bistro du Vin

11 Jan

4_oh

bistro du vin hong kong

Despite the many trends that are blossoming all over town, French food can never be (and hopefully will never be) forgotten, especially when it’s done well, as it certainly is at Bistro du Vin.

bistro du vin hong kong

This cute little bistro on Davis Street in Kennedy Town is as Parisian as it gets in Hong Kong, with tiled flooring, rustic-looking wooden tables, long leather benches and of course French accordion music playing in the background. What I particularly love about the décor are the vintage knick-knacks such as corkscrews, pots and pans, tins, comic books and posters dotted all over the walls. I couldn’t stop my eyes from darting around the room wondering what I would find next. At the back of the restaurant lies the wine collection, from which the restaurant derives its name.

The menu is authentic, without needing to offer a vast number of choices; I wish certain restaurants would learn that it’s better to offer five options and do them well than offer 30 options that are mediocre. A range of cold cuts and homemade pâtés kick off the menu above a small selection of starters, mains and desserts, along with a few specials of the day.

bistro du vin hong kong

A French bistro is not a French bistro if it doesn’t serve onion soup. The cheesy onion soup at Bistro du Vin is one of the tastiest I’ve tried. A thick layer of molten cheese gives way to a rich soup with soft slivers of onion that melt in the mouth. Dip in some crusty bread and this will be the only soup you’ll ever want to have.

bistro du vin hong kong

The pumpkin soup from the specials menu was mild and comforting, perfect for a winter’s day, although in my opinion not a patch on the onion soup.

bistro du vin hong kong

The goat’s cheese in ‘feuille de brick’ with mesclun salad was heavenly: creamy goat’s cheese came wrapped in delicately fine and crispy pastry, which, paired with the lightly dressed salad, was neither too heavy nor too easy to resist.

bistro du vin hong kong

It was the pan-seared foie gras however that really made me smile. Two sizeable chunks of decadently buttery foie gras were topped with caramelised chunks of apple and crunchy nuts, creating a perfect balance of textures and flavours.

bistro du vin hong kong

Moving on to main courses, the red snapper with leeks and bacon from the specials board had a delicate flavour, enhanced by the sweet leeks and salty bacon.

bistro du vin hong kong

The lamb shank, cooked and served in a beautiful Le Creuset pot that was still piping hot long after the lamb had been eaten, was deliciously tender, falling off the bone at the slightest touch. It needed a little helping of salt to really bring out the flavours of the rich tomato-based sauce, but then it’s better to have too little salt and add your own than be far too salty.

bistro du vin hong kong

The only complaint about the coq au vin (also cooked and served in a beautiful Le Creuset pot) was the exact opposite: it was a little too salty. Regardless of that, the chicken was juicy and delicious, and the rich sauce served as the perfect dip for every kind of potato we had on the table: French fries, wedges and mash.

bistro du vin hong kong

Finally the duck leg confit was cooked to tender perfection, with wonderfully crispy skin that I could not refuse, despite not usually being a skin-eater. Again, the duck needed a sprinkling of salt to help it on its way, after which it was possibly my favourite of the four dishes. The wedges it was served with were dangerously moreish and clearly cooked in some kind of fat, perhaps that of the very same duck leg.

bistro du vin hong kong

I can never resist a chocolate fondant (yes, even if I have just eaten a hugely rich French meal!), and Bistro du Vin’s fondant was utter perfection. It was rich and decadent whilst at the same time light and fluffy with the perfect oozing centre that left all four of us fighting over the last piece.

bistro du vin hong kong

The only disappointment of the evening came in the form of the banana crumble. When we saw it on the specials board, having never tried crumble of the banana variety, we decided we must order it. However, the crumble was lacking and the banana was far too sweet; I like crumbles of the apple variety that maintain an element of tart. Had this been our only dessert, we might have had to trudge down to Davis to order a slice of their heavenly cheesecake, but thankfully the fondant made up for it.

Service in fact was another disappointment, where we had to wave frantically in order to get even a hint of attention. Not a single smile crossed the face of any of the waiters either, which in part ruined the experience. However, the food was scrumptious and the décor was lovely, so, despite the over $400 bill per head (when we only had three glasses of wine), I will most definitely venture back to K Town whenever I feel the urge to visit Paris.

Bistro du Vin

Shop 1D, 1 Davis Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2824 3010

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Brasserie on the Eighth

8 Oct

 

 

brasserie conrad hong kongThere’s always something glamorous about dining in a hotel restaurant. Although you may not have the luxury of actually staying in a beautiful suite in the hotel, you are still given that amazing VIP treatment from the moment your cab pulls up outside. Such was the case at the Conrad; as soon as we arrived, we felt like celebrities as we were escorted from the lobby to our table on the eighth floor at Brasserie on the Eighth, and from then on we might as well have been royalty. I’d love to say that The Dim Sum Diaries and Sassy Hong Kong have turned me into bit of a celebrity (chuckle) but the same treatment was in fact given to everyone.

With regards to décor, with its pastel shades and faded carpet, Brasserie on the Eighth might be considered outdated and in need of renovation, or it can be seen to exude the elegance and charm of a bygone era; I agree with the latter. The floor to ceiling windows overlooking a beautiful banyan tree and manicured garden add to the charm.

brasserie conrad hong kong

Before our four-course meal began ($798 with wine pairing, $688 without) we were served a gorgeous plate of canapés featuring juicy figs wrapped in Parma ham, tender bites of salmon, melted brie on toast topped with sweet pear, and amazing pate on crisp bread. These delicious bite-sized goodies set the bar high for the rest of the meal.

brasserie conrad hong kong

Unable to decide which starter to choose, I opted for the appetiser selection: smaller versions of the salmon tartare, pan-seared scallops with asparagus, and foie gras. Each one was perfect, but I was particularly fond of the rich, buttery foie gras, served with a slice of dried orange to cut through the fat: delicious.

brasserie conrad hong kong

For the soup course, I chose the lobster bisque. It was rich, creamy and full of flavour, with welcome soft chunks of lobster and crunchy croutons to add a little texture. This shouldn’t be a complaint as it was delicious, but it was a touch on the large side considering I still had another two courses to go.

brasserie conrad hong kong

The French onion soup was a better size. The rich flavour was spot on, yet the actual soup base was a little too runny. For me however, the main attraction to a French onion soup is not the onion soup itself, but the pungent, thick, cheesy topping; this one certainly did not disappoint.

brasserie conrad hong kong

Onto the main courses, the pan-seared fillet of Pacific black cod had the perfect, flaky texture, yet it was ever so slightly lacking in flavour; all it needed was a squeeze of lemon though and it was as good as new.

brasserie conrad hong kong

The char-grilled king prawns and lamb chops were an interesting yet unfortunately rather disappointing combination that could have been so perfect… The lamb was incredibly tender and flavoursome, paired with a scrumptious mint sauce that really brought out the flavours. The prawns however, although tasty, had been cooked for a little too long and were just too tough to fully enjoy.

brasserie conrad hong kong

Last but by no means least, dessert arrived to save the day. For indecisive (or greedy) people, Brasserie offers a dessert sampler featuring four mini-desserts: strawberry panna cotta, tiramisu, ice cream stack and hazelnut parfait, the last of which I absolutely adored.

brasserie conrad hong kong

The absolute star of the night however was the ginger soufflé. It was flawlessly light and wonderfully gingery, made the more so by the light ginger sauce, which was drizzled through a hole in the top of the soufflé: Utter. Perfection.

After some complimentary petit fours and more than enough food and wine to send us into a certain food coma, we rolled out of the restaurant, again guided to the lift by the obliging staff.

Brasserie on the Eighth is a charming, elegant place with attentive service, wholesome food and a lovely view. Yes, there is certainly room for perfection…but nobody’s perfect.

Brasserie on the Eighth

8/F, Conrad Hong Kong
Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty

Tel: +852 2521 3838 ext. 8240

http://www.conraddining.com/en/

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Chez Patrick

1 Oct

chez patrick hong kong

Having never managed to get to the old Chez Patrick on Peel Street, when I first saw that it had closed and the sign had been taken down, I was a little bit sad that I had missed out. However, when I heard it was undergoing a revamp and moving to Wan Chai, my excitement re-emerged and I knew that I had to go there. Pronto.

The move from Soho to Wan Chai reflects the need for a larger space to accommodate Chez Patrick’s growing clientele it had built up over the six years it was on Peel Street. I never saw the old venue, but several people have mentioned that, although the old space was quaint and cosy, it was looking a little out-dated and worn out. The new space is obviously larger, whilst still maintaining some intimacy. It is reminiscent of an elegant Parisian dining room with grey wood-panelled walls, contrasted with beautiful wallpaper and quirky light fittings.

From the moment we entered, we knew we were in for a treat. The General Manager Jean-Noel was there to greet us and escort us to our table, and throughout the meal he was continuously there to offer menu suggestions and witty comments (my favourite being when he translated his name into English: “John-Christmas. What were my parents thinking?!”). Chef Patrick Goubier himself also made sure he did the rounds of all the tables, adding a personal touch to the experience; I always love meeting the chef behind the food, especially when he’s such a sweet, charming man as Patrick is.

chez patrick hong kong

Moving on to the food, the starter of King prawn and baby artichoke tartare with beetroot and goat’s cheese ice cream was divine, particularly the ice cream, which had an amazing blend of sweet versus savoury that excited every taste bud and perfectly complemented the stronger flavours of the tartare.

chez patrick hong kong

The Trio of foie gras was even better: smooth foie gras layered with a sort of fig chutney; raw foie gras marinated in Sauternes wine; and foie gras ice cream. The latter two, encased in soft brioche and smothered in bitter chocolate sauce looked like two little profiteroles. I’m definitely more of a dessert than a starter girl, so to almost have a dessert as a starter was just incredible. The foie gras ice cream again absolutely wowed me and worked so well with the bitter chocolate sauce.

chez patrick hong kong

For main course, our indecisiveness proved to be a winning trait, as our inability to decide between two dishes resulted in us being brought both; so three main courses between two! The Pigeon with leg parcel on gingerbread was delightful and offered so many different flavours and textures on one plate: rich gamey pigeon cooked to tenderness perfection; sweet gingerbread; soft flaky filo pastry encasing tender chunks of pigeon thigh meat: definitely one to recommend.

chez patrick hong kong

The Chicken ballotine stuffed with pig’s trotters, porcini and foie gras was complete melt-in-the-mouth goodness. The chicken was tender and juicy, made the more so by the soft, rich meaty filling and perfectly complemented by a delicate black truffle sauce and sweet celeriac mash.

chez patrick hong kong

Although to look at, the Roast Rack of Tasmanian Lamb was the least exciting of the three, to taste it may have been the best. The lamb was succulent and tender, bathed in a gorgeous rosemary jus. I had to remind my sister that we were in a nice restaurant and politely told her to put the chop down as she tried to gnaw every last morsel of juicy meat off the bone.

chez patrick hong kong

On to desserts, the Sablé Bréton was definitely the perfect summer dish. The biscuit was both crumbly and decadently buttery, topped with juicy fresh raspberries and accompanied by a deliciously refreshing basil sorbet to cleanse the palate. I can see that chef Patrick likes to have fun making uniquely flavoured ice creams and sorbets!

chez patrick hong kong

The Warm chestnut candy served with caramel ice cream is one of Chez Patrick’s signature desserts. It offers a delicious contrast between savoury and sweet and the little filo pastries are beautifully designed to look like ‘candy’.

If you can manage it, definitely save some room for cheese, as Chez Patrick’s cheese is without a doubt the best I’ve tasted in Hong Kong. I didn’t have cheese on this occasion, but tried some when Chez Patrick’s home catering service came to Sassy. Obviously slot it in before dessert, as after all, you are in Paris.

Whenever someone meets me, knowing I write restaurant reviews, they will without fail ask me “what’s your favourite restaurant in Hong Kong?” I despise this question as never know how to answer it; there are just too many choices! Having said that however, if I were to name a few favourites, I now think Chez Patrick would certainly be up there.

An average meal per person at Chez Patrick would set you back around $600, but I can assure you that for the faultless service, beautiful presentation and sheer quality and taste of the food, it is 100% worth it.

Chez Patrick

2/F Garden East
222 Queen’s Road East
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2541 1401

www.chezpatrick.hk

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Tate Dining Room & Bar

17 Sep

 

 

tate dining room hong kong

After hearing mixed reviews about Tate Dining Room & Bar, I had to check it out for myself, firstly to see if the food exceeded the rather low expectations, and secondly, more importantly, to see if I was still hungry after nine courses, as many who had gone before me were.

tate dining room hong kong

The setting is gorgeous, elegant and girlie, designed by Candace Campos, the same amazing designer behind MANA! and Heirloom Eatery. A lot of white and cream shades with good use of lighting make the space, which seats only around 26 diners, appear much larger than it is.

Set menus come in two forms: a six-course sensualist set (priced at $680) or a nine-course gastronomy set (for a whopping $980). It is clear to see just how much thought has gone behind each and every dish, as chef Vicky Lau (formerly of Cépage), creates her ‘edible stories’, each entitled with a lovely name.

tate dining room hong kong

Our nine-course menu began with a ‘Potato Ice Cream’. This interesting contrast between the crispy hot potato croquette and smooth cold potato ice cream, broken up by a line of peanut sand, was apparently inspired by what Chef Vicky pictures when thinking of the beach on a hot summer’s day. I loved the croquette and the peanut sand but couldn’t quite work out my feelings towards the ice cream. The smoked salmon and caviar were welcome additions, although perhaps the flavours were a little too strong for the mild potato purée.

tate dining room hong kong

tate dining room hong kong

The ‘Autumn Delight’ that followed was lovely; consisting of chestnut purée, whole chestnuts, smoked eel, a quail’s egg and vegetable crisps, it was a combination of flavours and textures that I would never think to put together, yet somehow they worked to create a wonderfully comforting and definitely autumnal dish.

tate dining room hong kong

The ‘Foie Gras Terrine’ was one of the star dishes of the night; buttery smooth cubes of foie gras were paired with grapes, candied walnuts, crumbs of Sauternes jelly and goma sesame sauce, served alongside a perfect brioche. I was in foie gras heaven and definitely took advantage of the fact that I was dining with a non goose liver lover.

tate dining room hong kong

Unfortunately the dish that followed, ‘Forest Essence’, was nowhere near as good. The single scallop was overcooked and rubbery, the mushrooms were dry and tasteless and the black garlic paste was smeared so thinly on the plate that it needn’t have bothered being there at all. Possibly the most exciting thing about this dish was the line of crushed chilli.

tate dining room hong kong

A ‘Tomato Consumme’ (was the misspelling intentional?) came beautifully presented in an adorable little teacup. Although the actual soup looked rather boring, I liked the delicate flavours and found it lovely and comforting, with the basil oil and sprig of thyme serving to add a hint of summer.

tate dining room hong kong

The cleverly named ‘Hamgoustine’ consisted of ham and – you guessed it – langoustine ravioli, served in a ham broth, topped with parmesan foam and strips of Serrano ham. The ravioli were cooked to perfection, and I loved the contrast of the two distinct fillings, however my only complaint is that the broth was a little too salty.

tate dining room hong kong

The absolute star of the night was the ‘A4 – Kagoshima Beef Rib’. The medium-rare meat was melt-in-the-mouth tender and beautifully flavoured, paired with a miso potato purée and crunchy grilled asparagus: utterly faultless.

tate dining room hong kong

A pretty ‘Zen Garden’ appeared next, but unfortunately it wasn’t exactly our idea of bliss; as much as I like green tea as a drink, I’m never a fan of green tea desserts, so the matcha green tea mousse just didn’t work for me. Served on top of white chocolate mousse and alongside sesame panna cotta and peanut sand, the whole thing was just unbearably sweet for my taste.

tate dining room hong kong

‘Tate’s Mini Dessert Cart’, however, made up for it in both appearance and taste. It was a chocoholic’s dream, offering mini chocolate mousse, a rich chocolate drink, dark chocolate brownie and last but by no means least, a chocolate hazelnut truffle.

The staff at Tate are very welcoming and knowledgeable about each dish. Service is swift, but not to the point of feeling rushed. With Chef Vicky’s creativity and passion it has the right tools to be something really special, but there are still a number of issues that need resolving first.

Now to answer the question you’ve all been waiting for: Was I hungry after my nine-course meal? No, but neither was I bursting at the seams, and I’m not sure I agree with paying $980 and to not feel like I’m going to pop.

Tate Dining Room & Bar

59 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 2172

www.tate.com.hk

 

 

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AVA Restaurant Slash Bar

29 Aug

I have been making the treacherous journey to the ‘dark side’ fairly frequently recently and have begun to think that it isn’t actually all that dark.

On Wednesday evening I was invited to represent Sassy HK at a media preview for the launch of Azure Restaurant Slash Bar’s little sister, AVA Restaurant Slash Bar, which will officially be ‘born’ on 1st September.

The whole experience, from travelling in the dangerously named ‘bullet lift’, watching the Hong Kong harbour get smaller and smaller; to arriving at the 38th floor of Hotel Panorama by Rhombus, admiring the spectacular 270° view; to eating Chef Mike Boyle’s incredible creations, is like no other.

With floor to ceiling windows and warm décor, AVA invites you to feast on international modern cuisine in true style, taking in the amazing skyline that our wonderful city has to offer.

Start the night with one of AVA’s signature cocktails, made by a highly trained mixologist before your very eyes. The AVA-tini is quite something; a blend of Absolut mandarin, Belvedere raspberry and Malibu with fresh fruit juices, topped off with liquid nitrogen, served actually smoking to the table – a feast for all the senses!

After the cocktail, move on to one of AVA’s high quality wines from the extensive wine list, with selections to perfectly match your chosen dishes. The Auntsfield Marlborough Chardonnay (2009), with only a subtle oakiness to complement the citrus notes is very good, or for an amazing red wine, try the MI Terruno Mayacaba Malbec (2007) from Mendoza, Argentina – a full-bodied wine made from 100 year old vines.

Crab salad on the beach

Each meal commences with a complimentary amuse bouche: Crab salad on the beach – a multi-tiered crab salad served atop a mini edible beach. From the moment I saw how much effort Chef Boyle had put into even his amuse bouche, I knew this was going to be a very special meal indeed.

The AVA team put together a tasting menu of about 8 signature dishes for us, including meat, seafood and vegetarian options to show the full range of their talent.

Boston lobster

The Boston lobster, served inside an ice crystal was sensational: layers of crab, avocado and tropical fruits with seriously tender lobster. The presentation was like nothing I have ever seen before, keeping the lobster both looking and tasting as cool as a cucumber.

Red pepper soup

Next came a red pepper and tomato soup with black garlic, served inside a beautiful little iron pot. I had never even heard of black garlic, let alone tasted it, so was surprised to notice the sweetness of the flavour, created by fermenting garlic at a very high temperature. Garlic is one of my favourite foods, and I think I fell in love all over again.

Duck foie gras

To follow came Duck foie gras with foie gras ‘pebbles’ served on a citrus-spiced waffle with orange vanilla gel. I have never been the biggest foie gras fan, but I think Chef Boyle’s dish may well have converted me.

The pan-roasted red snapper with orange ginger sauce, baby fennel and heirloom carrots on a bed of cauliflower risotto, showed Chef Boyle’s insistence on making the vegetables an integral part of any dish, rather than simply fading into the background. He likes his dishes to be colourful and aesthetically pleasing, hence his decision to use purple, yellow, white and orange carrots.

Salt-marsh lamb

The same was indicated in his Salt-marsh lamb from the Rhug Estate in Wales. Even though the lamb was hands-down the star of this dish, the carefully selected vegetables (Brussels sprouts, celery roots, potatoes, carrots and beans) served on a ribbon of beetroot purée, were also major players in this sensational dish.

As a special surprise not originally intended to be a part of our menu tasting, the butternut squash tortellini with light cinnamon butter and a fennel and orange salad was divine.

The Cap

Also from the Rhug Estate in Wales, the grilled Cap served with rosemary carrots and chunky smashed potatoes was possibly one of the best cuts of meat I have ever eaten. With absolutely no need for any kind of condiment, this tender, perfectly pink steak was a slice of heaven on earth.

Rosewater and raspberry ice cream

Knowing AVA’s dessert would not disappoint, we desperately located the special dessert space in our stomachs. Chef Boyle prepared a rose water and raspberry ice cream right in front of us, using liquid nitrogen. Paired with a berry compote, and served in a little shortbread basket, this dessert exceeded expectations.

AVA’s contemporary Sky Bar, with a live DJ from 10pm to 2am every Thursday to Saturday is the perfect place to relax and dance away the stress from a long week at work. For me, going to the same bars every weekend in Central is starting to lose its appeal, so a change of scenery is always appreciated. Alternatively, if you’re looking for something a little more chilled out, take the lift up to the 40th floor to the open-air Sky Garden to admire the view and relax with another of AVA’s amazing cocktails.

If you need a reason to brave your fears and visit the ‘dark side’, AVA is it. Once you get over the panic of stepping outside your comfort zone, you’ll realise that, sometimes, change can be a very wonderful thing.

AVA Restaurant Slash Bar

38/F Hotel Panorama by Rhombus
8A Hart Avenue
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3550 0262

Date visited: Wednesday 24th August 2011

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Le Marron

21 Apr

On Saturday, my friend celebrated one of her last nights of freedom before her big day to be held this summer. After a beautiful day out on a catamaran in the South China Sea, her hen party of 18 girls went to Le Marron in Causeway Bay for dinner. This private kitchen, similar to its sister restaurant, Le Blanc, aims to make the diner feel like they are in someone’s very ornately decorated dining room, littered with photo frames, candelabras and all sorts of knick-knacks dotted around on every possible surface area.

The tables (for between 2 and 30 diners) are semi-curtained off with translucent screens, allowing for a bit of privacy if you want it, or they can just as easily be pushed aside to allow drunken men to come in and taunt/tempt the bride-to-be! Or likewise if other parties were outraged by our hen games, they were free to close themselves off too.  Each sectioned-off area is slightly different, with mismatching wallpaper and furniture, giving the impression that each party has their very own dining room, different to the next. Mind you, the noise levels remind you that you are indeed sharing the restaurant with A LOT of other people, so be prepared to shout in order to make yourself heard.

Although there is a reasonably priced wine-list, the restaurant offers a BYO service, without a corkage charge, which helps to bring down the cost. This is particularly useful if you’re celebrating with champagne for 18 thirsty girls. The attentive waiters make this experience even more worthwhile by insisting that your glass is never empty (although I think all of us cursed the waiters the following morning!).

A set menu of four courses, with a few choices for each course, awaited us. The overriding theme of the month (the menu changes monthly) seemed to be FUNGUS. There were mushrooms everywhere: wild mushroom quiche, wild mushroom soup, angel-hair pasta with….wild mushrooms and black truffle cream sauce. As I have mentioned previously, I never used to be a fungus person, so this many mushrooms on one menu did frighten me a little bit and I was grateful that we had the choice to opt out. I did decide to try the wild mushroom quiche, however, as it was the starter which jumped out at me the most. So, as (after a surprisingly long time) the other girls received a huuuuge plate of Caesar salad, or a decent portion of foie gras, I was served a sliver of quiche. At the time, I grumbled and probably even muttered under my breath to the waiter “where’s the rest of it?” but, considering I still had three courses to follow, it was probably a jolly good thing it wasn’t any bigger! The quiche was good, very flavoursome, but did leave me wanting more. Apparently the foie gras was the opposite – very good flavour but far too rich and any more would have been torture. I didn’t try the salad, although I did try one of the croutons which I believe I described as “outrageously garlicky.”

Unwilling, like I said, to have an overload of wild mushrooms, I chose the only other soup option – crab bisque – which I wasn’t too bothered about ordering and didn’t allow myself to eat much of as I had a big plate of beef to follow. It was a lot better than I had imagined and I particularly enjoyed the chunks of crabmeat. Don’t risk it if you don’t like crab though, as it is… well, very crabby! Mushroom soup was apparently rather watery but a good level of mushroominess.

A taste of sorbet to clean the palatte was very well received after my crabby crab bisque.

I didn’t really know exactly what I had ordered for main course. I simply went with it as it sounded better than the other options and the waiter recommended it: Grilled Angus short rib mille feuille with perigueux sauce. It was beautifully presented and wafer-thinly sliced, so that, had there not been so many fatty bits, it would have melted in the mouth. Unfortunately, there were quite a few said fatty bits which had to be discarded, leaving me with little edible meat (again probably not a bad thing as I was already becoming replete). Looking around the table, the duck was said to have very good flavour but was very dry and would have benefitted from a little jus. I tried the angel hair pasta and was blown away by the mushroominess: it was insanely powerful and one small mouthful was enough to make me down my glass of Sauvignon Blanc!

There were three desserts to choose from: Baked apple and cinnamon crumble, warm chocolate pudding or crème brulée. I ordered the choc pud but was very disappointed. Not nearly as good as Watermark‘s one, and nowhere near as good as the M&S food porn one, needless to say I took a couple of mouthfuls, pushed it aside and tried the other two desserts. Crème brulée – not amazing and the shell on top did not have that satisfactory crack when knocked with a fork. Apple crumble however, parfait! Tart apple with crisp, delicious crumble. Hands down star of the show. Well done crumble.

All in all a very enjoyable evening. The food can definitely not be described as out of this world, but it was tasty and I don’t think there are many other restaurants in HK where we could seat 18 over-excited girls on one long table and where it would be acceptable to whip out all sorts of phallic-themed accessories. Although at first sight a few of us mentioned to each other that this could be an ideal date restaurant, judging by the noise levels and the fact that, although titled a ‘private kitchen’, it is definitely not so private, it is perhaps only best kept for large groups. There is a minimum spend of $380 per head, but our bill reached $510 each with a couple of additional bottles. For a very fun evening, this wasn’t a bad price at all and I definitely think our hen had a good time as we all stumbled onwards to Wyndham Street carrying our food babies.

Le Marron

12/F Ying Kong Mansion
2-6 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2881 6662

Date visited: Saturday 16th April 2011

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