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The Shed, London

3 Dec

the shed restaurant london

One of the things I miss most about England is the countryside; farms and open expanses of greenery are not often seen in Hong Kong, at least where I live. Even though newly opened London resto The Shed is in Notting Hill, far from farms and countryside, it feels as if you have literally stepped into a country shed (albeit a rather glamorous one).

The Shed was set up by brothers Richard and Oliver Gladwin, as manager and chef respectively, whilst the third and youngest brother Gregory works at the family farm in Nutbourne, West Sussex, from which most of the restaurant’s delicious fresh produce comes.

the shed restaurant london

From the outside, you would definitely be forgiven for mistaking the building with a garden shed, given its white wooden façade. The interior is decorated with pitch forks, tables are made from barrels or reclaimed wood, and there is even the bonnet of a tractor hanging above the bar, making you want to put on your very best ‘Farmer Joe’ accent when ordering a drink. Nevertheless, it also has a warm (rather too warm) cottagey feel that encourages you to stay there for hours and avoid the cold outdoors. I loved the added touches like the lumberjack shirts and leather tool belts worn by the waiters, which really complete the look

The Shed holds one of my favourite philosophies, that of ‘sharing is caring’. The menu, which changes daily according to what’s in season, can probably be described as ‘British tapas’, consisting of a variety of small plates designed to be shared, making sure evil Food Envy stays far, far away.

the shed restaurant london

Our first ‘mouthful’, from the section of the menu with the same name, didn’t particularly impress us. Although the endive with pear and blue cheese sounded tasty, it was a little heavy on the pear and light on the cheese.

the shed restaurant london

However, the chorizo patty was incredible, both in texture and taste. The rich, salty chorizo was topped with a humble dollop of egg mayo, bringing it back to its roots and creating a remarkable dish. We just wished we had ordered more than one mouthful each!

The Shed’s salami, made at Nutbourne Farm, was of the highest quality and paired perfectly with the homemade bread. The only thing I was slightly unsure of was the anchovy butter…

the shed restaurant london

Why I have never had goat’s cheese paired with hazelnuts is beyond me; after tasting The Shed’s pan-fried goat’s cheese with hazelnuts, honey and thyme, I was in cheese heaven and swore to always eat goat’s cheese with hazelnuts from that moment on. We were advised that 2.5 main courses under ‘slow cooking’ or ‘fast cooking’ would suffice per person – so we ordered two of everything, of course.

the shed restaurant london

The venison chipolatas with Shed mustard were cooked exactly to my liking: perfectly bronzed on the outside and deliciously juicy on the inside. The rich, gamey flavour was further enhanced by the homemade mustard so that this was actually the only dish I could have done without having ordered a second helping of…. although I happily ate a second chipolata anyway!

the shed restaurant london

I loved the girolles, thyme crumpet and labneh cheese, particularly the latter, which added a wonderful creaminess to this hearty and comforting dish.

the shed restaurant london

My absolute favourite, however, were without a doubt the lamb chips, served with a generous dollop of spiced harissa. These two cylinders of beautifully tender lamb shank, coated in crispy breadcrumbs were to die for; we were all relieved there was another plate to come when the first sadly ended.

Simply because a meal cannot end on lamb alone, we shared two desserts between us: Apple tart tatin and cranberry suet roly poly. The former was decadently sweet, with a perfectly crisp base, unusually yet tastily paired with poppyseed ice cream.

the shed restaurant london

Having originally ordered a chocolate brownie, Richard insisted we must try his roly poly instead, something I would never normally order. Richard was absolutely right: the roly poly was utterly divine. The cake was amazingly light and fluffy, and the slightly tart cranberry compote on top transformed this traditional, yet often forgotten dessert into something I would want to order time and time again.

shed restaurant london

Prices at The Shed aren’t too steep at all; for lots of tasty food, a ‘daily loosener’ each (containing gin, white wine, rosehip and soda – sounds bizarre but tasted amazing) and a bottle of wine, we paid a mere £35 per head (around HKD400), and were also given a cute little packet of seeds to take away and try to make our own farm. With its excellent and friendly service, warm, inviting interiors and of course wholesome, delicious and real food, brought from the farm to your table, it is definitely worth hanging out in this Shed.

The Shed

122 Palace Gardens Terrace
Notting Hill
W8, London

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7229 4024

www.theshed-restaurant.com

The Thinkers Balcony, London

27 Nov

the thinkers balcony secret supper club londonDo we ever really think about what it is we are eating and why we are eating that particular thing? Of course we think about how much we enjoy that food (hopefully), but most of the time, eating is never really a very meditative experience. Ilyas Kassam, an old university friend and now a writer of philosophy, begs to differ, believing that food can indeed be tied to thought. Taking this a step further, by associating food with the specific thoughts of well-known philosophers, Ilyas set up The Thinkers Balcony, a secret supper club, to encourage his diners to ‘engage with their desires, their beliefs, and of course their stomachs!’

the thinkers balcony supper club london

The Thinkers Balcony is not like any private kitchen we know in Hong Kong; it is located in a beautiful traditional London town house in Notting Hill, in fact in Ilyas’ very own living room. The room is artistically decorated, with a gramophone, stacks of philosophical books, unusual hats, and most importantly a low table made from old wine cases, around which diners sit on cushions on the floor. As we sipped on glasses of Champagne (it’s BYOB – it would have been rude not to!) whilst we waited for the food to be presented, we took in our surroundings and knew we were in for an unforgettable experience.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Normally, diners coming to The Thinkers Balcony are aware of who the philosopher inspiring their meal is before they begin their feast. Ilyas had something different in store for us, however; our meal was entitled Mystery and the Unknown: An Existential Adventure of the Stomach, so the philosophy was not revealed until the end of the meal. Until then, each course led us on an inquisitive journey where we were encouraged to think really hard (seriously hard in fact) about what the thought governing the meal could be…

the thinkers balcony supper club londonThe first course, or the ‘prelude’, was Bergamot Ponzu Oyster with Ikura. I’m not always enamoured by oysters, yet I definitely was by these. The citrusy flavours of the bergamot and ponzu shone through and contrasted with the delicate chamomile leaf oil to create a delicious yet not thunder-stealing backdrop for the oyster.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 1’ was an incredible Japanese Tuna Tartare beautifully presented with edible flowers. With strong hints of sesame, buttery chunks of avocado and of course melt-in-the-mouth tuna, all you could hear around the table was the sound of delighted diners and cutlery scooping up every last crumb.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Our main course, ‘Chapter 2’, was Smoked Cognac Chipotle Beef and Tamago Donburi. As you can tell, Ilyas takes most of his inspiration from Japanese cuisine (and quite rightly too, as it’s one of my favourites). This dish arrived in three parts: first the sticky rice topped with tamago (Japanese omelette) and sesame, followed by a wooden board laden with rare chunks of steak that caused a tablewide round of ‘oooohs’, and finished off with a jug of chipotle sauce. Although the beef was a little chewy, it was beautifully infused with cognac, which tasted even better with a generous dash of the smoky, slightly spicy chipotle sauce.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 3’ was dessert: Black Truffle Ice Cream with Argan Baked Fig served on a pumpkin, date and hazelnut ‘sand’. Putting truffle in a dessert is a very brave move, as it isn’t to everyone’s taste. So, although there were a few confused and perhaps displeased palates around the room, those who did like it (including me!) made up for the haters and made sure every plate was licked clean. The combination of the unique flavours and textures really demonstrated Ilyas’ passion and skill in the kitchen.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Last but most certainly not least, for the ‘Epilogue’, we were presented with a plate of homemade Saffron Chocolates, the perfect end to a delicious meal. I wish I could have taken a box of these home with me.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Aside from the Champagne and wine we had brought ourselves, we were also served some exceptional teas from Ilyas’ vast collection from around the world; a unique touch to complement such a fun and adventurous meal.

After we had racked our brains to try and determine who the philosopher behind our feast was, we lifted our plates to reveal the absurd answer. I’m not going to give the secret away, just in case Ilyas uses this idea again, but I can tell you that it definitely surprised us and made us think.

Dinners at The Thinkers Balcony occur roughly every three weeks and cost between £20 and £40 per ticket (HKD240-480) depending on the nature of the meal and number of courses. You can be added to the mailing list to find out about upcoming events by entering your email address here. There are only six tickets each time, so make sure you get yours early. You will meet some interesting people, eat some incredible food and be wowed by how philosophy can be reflected in what we eat…

The Thinkers Balcony

Notting Hill (exact location will be given when tickets are purchased)

http://thethinkersbalcony.com

Contact: ilyaskassam@gmail.com

Dishoom, London

19 Jul

 

 

Dishoom London

In English films, when a punch is landed, the sound effect is said to be ‘kapow!’ In Bollywood films, the same act is accompanied by the onomatopoeic word ‘dishoom!’ As soon as I knew that this was how Dishoom in Covent Garden got its name, it was even more of a reason to go there.

Dishoom London

Dishoom is based on the Bombay cafés of the 1960s, a trend of all day cafés made popular by Persian immigrants in what was then Bombay. These elegant, airy spaces used to line the streets, but now they number less than 30. The owners of Dishoom therefore wanted to pay homage to these places that appealed to businessmen, students and workers alike, and bring a different side of India to London’s already Indian-saturated culinary scene.

The décor is as you would expect it to be in a Bombay café; high ceilings adorned with wooden fans, ceramic floor tiles, wooden panelling on the walls contrasted with painted bricks and dotted with framed posters and photographs of Bollywood film stars or Indian families. The retro-modern feel is self-proclaimed as ‘faded elegance’. It is inviting, but I must say that even more inviting are the beautiful aromas that emanate from the open kitchen on the first floor; the smell hit me as soon as I entered and immediately excited my taste buds.

Unfortunately, as we were only five, we were unable to book a table (evening bookings require a minimum of six people), although it was hardly a chore to endure a fairly short wait at the downstairs bar drinking Chaijitos (a mojito made with chai-infused rum) and Chilli Martinis while our table became available.

We were advised by our friendly waiter that it would be wise to share four to five small plates (the beauty of Dishoom is that all plates are designed for sharing, keeping evil Food Envy at bay), followed by five mains and four to five breads and sides. What our friendly waiter didn’t warn us, was that despite thinking we were ordering starters followed by mains, everything came all at once, which was a little overwhelming to say the least, especially given the obvious requirement to take photos for all my dear readers.

Dishoom London

Dishoom’s answer to poppadoms came in the form of Far Far, tube-like colourful fried snacks that tasted lovely, yet would have been better as a pre-dinner snack to go with our cocktails, as the other more exciting dishes left the poor Far Far far behind.

Dishoom London

The vegetable samosas were just as they should be: crispy on the outside, soft, crumbly and comforting on the inside, with a solid fiery kick.

Dishoom London

The Pau Bhaji was beautiful: a bowl of gorgeously comforting mashed vegetables in a rich curry sauce, served with fluffy buttered bread. I think I could definitely live off buckets of this.

Dishoom London

Vada Pau is apparently a ‘Bombay obsession’ and I can totally see why. It is a delicious soft potato patty, topped with chutney and encased in a fluffy bun. Although it was difficult to share between five, we managed, and only wished there had been more.

Dishoom London

From the ‘grills’ section of the menu, we tried Mahi Tikka: incredibly succulent chunks of North Atlantic cod that simply melted in the mouth. The coriander and lime marinade brought out the delicate flavour of the fish.

As the rest of us needed meat in our lives, our token veggie friend (everyone has to have one) chose her own main of Mattar Paneer under ‘Ruby Murray’ on the menu: fluffy chunks of paneer cheese bathed in Dishoom’s lovely and comforting curry sauce.

Dishoom London

The Dhaba Chicken, also from the ‘Ruby Murray’ section was delicious, made with amazingly tender chunks of chicken cooked in a thick and gently spiced curry sauce that also served as an incredible dipping sauce for the beautiful garlic naan (complete with large chunks of pungent garlic) and the paper thin Roomali roti.

Dishoom London

A Lamb Biriyani, sealed with pastry in its hot clay pot, was prised open before us to reveal a wonderfully aromatic dish that made even the veggie utter an audible ‘aaaah’. The taste was just as good too, with succulent pieces of lamb and a punchy level of spiciness.

Dishoom London

The Chole Frankie Roll consisted of a lovely and soft home-baked naan bread, stuffed with spiced chickpeas, coriander and chutney to create an exciting and fiery wrap.

Dishoom London

Aside from the naan, roti and the obligatory rice, we also shared a bowl of crispy fried okra, tossed in ‘magic masala’. It was definitely magic.

For cocktails, a bottle of wine and plenty of food, we paid only £26 each (around HKD300). Maybe I’ve got used to Hong Kong prices, but this to me seemed like an absolute bargain. My one complaint is the absurd speediness of the food, but as soon as they uttered the phrase “it’s not fast; it’s dishoom!” I quickly forgave them and realised it was all part of the experience, an experience that I would definitely like to relive on my next trip back to Blighty. Next time I’m going for breakfast, as that Bacon Naan Roll with homemade chilli jam is calling out to me.

Dishoom

12 Upper St Martin’s Lane
Covent Garden
London WC2H 9FB
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0)20 7420 9320

www.dishoom.com

Da Mario, London

17 Jul

 

 

Da Mario London

After a culture-filled day out in London, we were eager to find somewhere to eat near the Threesixty Theatre in South Ken. Having never been, I was told I must try Da Mario on Gloucester Road.

The minute we entered from the cold July drizzle (a clear reminder of why I left England in the first place), we felt at home; it was warm, it was cosy and the incredibly friendly waiters treated us as if they’d known us forever. Even with no reservation, a few sips of a drink at the bar downstairs was all the time we had to wait until a table became available in the slightly more lively upstairs dining area.

Da Mario is an institution that I’m surprised I’ve never been to. It was opened in the sixties by Mario, a passionate Italian chef from Naples, who wanted to bring the delicious flavours of his hometown to London. Apparently it was a favourite of Princess Diana’s too; photos and paintings of her now line the walls. Sadly, Mario passed away in 2007, yet his son Marco continues the legacy, serving up authentic Neapolitan cuisine in a comforting, comfortable surrounding.

According to a dedication on the menu, Mario developed the recipe for the pizza sauce at Pizza Express. We had actually been there for lunch, so we were definitely honouring Mario and his delicious pizzas.

Da Mario London

Speaking of pizzas, we had already had more than our share for lunch, yet we insisted on at least trying the Cestino di pane ai quattro formaggi – which was basically a tomato-less pizza. The base was perfect: thin, rustic and delicately flavoured, meaning the rich flavours of the gorgeous Italian cheeses really stood out.

Da Mario London

The Gamberoni aglio olio e peperoncino, three beautiful grilled prawns drizzled with olive oil, thin slivers of garlic and chilli flakes, were delicious and succulent, whilst the garlic and chilli oil also served as a perfect dip for the bread.

Melanzane parmigiana is one of my favourite Italian dishes, and this one certainly didn’t disappoint: delicious layers of aubergine, Parmesan, tomato and basil, baked to golden and gooey perfection.

Da Mario London

My main course of Papardelle adriatico – cherry tomatoes, garlic, white wine, fresh parsley and swordfish strips on a bed of rocket – was divine. Both the pasta and the sauce were wonderfully fresh and light. However, whilst I thought the swordfish would add to the dish, it was actually a little on the dry side and I think the dish would have been perfect without it.

Da Mario London

The Parpardelle branzino had the same sauce as the above, but instead of the swordfish, it was topped with a lovely fillet of seabass that was neither dry nor unnecessary; rather it completed the already delicious dish.

Da Mario London

An original request for a Pasta da Marco (which, although is not on the menu, is apparently a puttanesca) was confused with a Rigatoni da Mario, more of a carbonara-style pasta. The waiters were hugely apologetic, offering to change it as quickly as possible, but we stuck with it and were pleasantly surprised. Although it was in a cream sauce, it was not too heavy, and the addition of chopped basil kept it fresh.

All thoughts of dessert were cast aside after our veritable feast and fears of missing the last train home, although of course we couldn’t turn down a glass of limoncello to round off the delicious meal!

Our total bill came to £25 each. Da Mario is an authentic slice of Naples in London, where delicious food is served with a genuine smile in an ambience that would definitely entice me to come again…if only I didn’t live on the other side of the world!

Da Mario

15 Gloucester Road
London
SW7 4PP
England

Tel: +44 (0)20 7584 9078

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