Tag Archives: oysters

Manor Seafood Restaurant

28 Jan

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Manor Seafood Restaurant Hong Kong

There is little better for a non-Chinese-speaking foodie like myself than dining with a group of Chinese-speaking foodies who not only know the good spots I probably wouldn’t have otherwise known about, but also know the best things to order. Such was the case on a recent trip to Manor Seafood Restaurant on Jaffe Road.

This very local restaurant where English is not widely spoken has been around forever and is known for its late night dining; it serves food until 4am – perfect for a feast after a night on Lockhart doh.

For our group of nine, we were offered a private room at the back of the restaurant. We were then told mid-way through our meal that there was a minimum spend of $5,500 for the use of this room and we were therefore expected to order more. Needless to say there was many an argument with the grumpy staff, giving the otherwise wonderful meal a slightly sour taste.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Grumbles about service and cost aside, the food is what really matters, and thankfully on this front Manor certainly delivers. We began our feast with the best suckling pig I have ever eaten. The whole pig was brought out with beautiful golden skin scored into squares ready to be eaten with a dollop of hoisin sauce and spring onions on a miniature pancake. The skin was incredibly crispy and somehow not greasy in the slightest. Whilst I usually discard fatty skin, on this occasion I gobbled down three slices!

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

After the skin had been devoured, the pig was taken away and carved into pieces of juicy, tender and delicious meat. Note, the suckling pig needs to be ordered at least a day in advance.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Following this, we were served a plate of gold coin chicken: a heart attack sandwich. Slices of char siu, chicken liver, pork fat and taro were stacked up between two of the same miniature pancakes. If you can handle intense, seriously rich food then these are absolutely divine, just as long as you do some hardcore exercise the following day.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

It seems that Manor also serves the best char siu I have ever eaten. Again it wasn’t oily in the slightest and, having been slow cooked for hours, the meat was incredibly tender and full of that amazing honey flavour that implores you to have another piece, and then another…

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Manor is technically a ‘seafood’ restaurant, so of course we had to add some seafood to the mix. The steamed crab with shao xing wine received mixed comments. Whilst the crab itself was wonderfully tender and meaty (at over $1000 for this dish, you’d bloomin’ well hope so!), the sauce, made with sweet Chinese wine, egg yolk and chicken fat (yes, chicken fat), was insanely rich. Nevertheless, there was something about the sauce (perhaps my new found addiction to fat) that made me keep going back for more. Served alongside the crab are crispy vermicelli cakes, designed to mop up the rich sauce.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

The oysters with ginger and spring onion tossed and served in a clay pot were also incredible and beat the raw version hands down.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

The fried tofu with chilli and garlic was not the best I’ve ever had, and neither was the Chinese lettuce in a clay pot, but thankfully (and surprisingly) there was still room for dessert, something I had been looking forward to since I first heard the words ‘baked almond bun’. The soft, warm buns, coated in a crispy sugary outer layer give way to a creamy almond paste that is decadently sweet and moreish.

I have already commented on the service, which remained negative throughout the meal. When the bill came, we were actually not far off the minimum spend anyway, paying around $570 per head, without any drinks. There was I thinking Cantonese food is supposed to be cheap, but then again it was worth it for the suckling pig alone…

Manor Seafood Restaurant

G/F, 440 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2836 9999

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The Thinkers Balcony, London

27 Nov

the thinkers balcony secret supper club londonDo we ever really think about what it is we are eating and why we are eating that particular thing? Of course we think about how much we enjoy that food (hopefully), but most of the time, eating is never really a very meditative experience. Ilyas Kassam, an old university friend and now a writer of philosophy, begs to differ, believing that food can indeed be tied to thought. Taking this a step further, by associating food with the specific thoughts of well-known philosophers, Ilyas set up The Thinkers Balcony, a secret supper club, to encourage his diners to ‘engage with their desires, their beliefs, and of course their stomachs!’

the thinkers balcony supper club london

The Thinkers Balcony is not like any private kitchen we know in Hong Kong; it is located in a beautiful traditional London town house in Notting Hill, in fact in Ilyas’ very own living room. The room is artistically decorated, with a gramophone, stacks of philosophical books, unusual hats, and most importantly a low table made from old wine cases, around which diners sit on cushions on the floor. As we sipped on glasses of Champagne (it’s BYOB – it would have been rude not to!) whilst we waited for the food to be presented, we took in our surroundings and knew we were in for an unforgettable experience.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Normally, diners coming to The Thinkers Balcony are aware of who the philosopher inspiring their meal is before they begin their feast. Ilyas had something different in store for us, however; our meal was entitled Mystery and the Unknown: An Existential Adventure of the Stomach, so the philosophy was not revealed until the end of the meal. Until then, each course led us on an inquisitive journey where we were encouraged to think really hard (seriously hard in fact) about what the thought governing the meal could be…

the thinkers balcony supper club londonThe first course, or the ‘prelude’, was Bergamot Ponzu Oyster with Ikura. I’m not always enamoured by oysters, yet I definitely was by these. The citrusy flavours of the bergamot and ponzu shone through and contrasted with the delicate chamomile leaf oil to create a delicious yet not thunder-stealing backdrop for the oyster.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 1’ was an incredible Japanese Tuna Tartare beautifully presented with edible flowers. With strong hints of sesame, buttery chunks of avocado and of course melt-in-the-mouth tuna, all you could hear around the table was the sound of delighted diners and cutlery scooping up every last crumb.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Our main course, ‘Chapter 2’, was Smoked Cognac Chipotle Beef and Tamago Donburi. As you can tell, Ilyas takes most of his inspiration from Japanese cuisine (and quite rightly too, as it’s one of my favourites). This dish arrived in three parts: first the sticky rice topped with tamago (Japanese omelette) and sesame, followed by a wooden board laden with rare chunks of steak that caused a tablewide round of ‘oooohs’, and finished off with a jug of chipotle sauce. Although the beef was a little chewy, it was beautifully infused with cognac, which tasted even better with a generous dash of the smoky, slightly spicy chipotle sauce.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 3’ was dessert: Black Truffle Ice Cream with Argan Baked Fig served on a pumpkin, date and hazelnut ‘sand’. Putting truffle in a dessert is a very brave move, as it isn’t to everyone’s taste. So, although there were a few confused and perhaps displeased palates around the room, those who did like it (including me!) made up for the haters and made sure every plate was licked clean. The combination of the unique flavours and textures really demonstrated Ilyas’ passion and skill in the kitchen.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Last but most certainly not least, for the ‘Epilogue’, we were presented with a plate of homemade Saffron Chocolates, the perfect end to a delicious meal. I wish I could have taken a box of these home with me.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Aside from the Champagne and wine we had brought ourselves, we were also served some exceptional teas from Ilyas’ vast collection from around the world; a unique touch to complement such a fun and adventurous meal.

After we had racked our brains to try and determine who the philosopher behind our feast was, we lifted our plates to reveal the absurd answer. I’m not going to give the secret away, just in case Ilyas uses this idea again, but I can tell you that it definitely surprised us and made us think.

Dinners at The Thinkers Balcony occur roughly every three weeks and cost between £20 and £40 per ticket (HKD240-480) depending on the nature of the meal and number of courses. You can be added to the mailing list to find out about upcoming events by entering your email address here. There are only six tickets each time, so make sure you get yours early. You will meet some interesting people, eat some incredible food and be wowed by how philosophy can be reflected in what we eat…

The Thinkers Balcony

Notting Hill (exact location will be given when tickets are purchased)

http://thethinkersbalcony.com

Contact: ilyaskassam@gmail.com

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The Pawn

3 Aug

The Pawn Hong Kong

The Pawn has historically had mixed reviews: “the décor and setting are amazing, but the food doesn’t quite match,” they would say. Well, “they”, you can now eat your words (and The Pawn’s food too) for British chef Anthony Fletcher, trained by Tom Aikens, joined the team last year and has successfully thrown some magic into the mix, creating incredible British food that complements the gorgeous setting.

the pawn hong kong

The setting really is gorgeous, housed inside one of Hong Kong’s few remaining heritage buildings.  The Dining Room on the second floor is lovely and cosy, with rustic wooden tables and chairs, and a spacious balcony overlooking the bustling Johnston Road. It has a terribly British feel to it (said in my best Queen’s English accent), which is as far removed as possible from the busy Wan Chai street below.

the pawn hong kong

While we nibbled on some snacks from The Living Room’s menu, we were recommended to try some Puro sparkling rosé from Movia winery in Slovenia. According to The Pawn’s beautiful and extensive Wine Journal (that’s correct: not list, but journal, complete with postcards, quotes and drawings), Ales Kristancic, the owner of Movia winery, is “making some of the strangest and most beautiful wines on the planet.” This particular sparking wine is stored upside down, so that the sediment collects in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is then opened with what looks not too dissimilar to a crow bar, under water; the sediment escapes into the water and you are left with an incredible sparkling rosé that is 100 percent like no other.

the pawn hong kong

Going back to the snacks, the mini fish and chips are lovely, but the fantastic mini Cumberland sausages served alongside them were even better. These are first poached and then fried in a mixture of Worcester sauce and honey. Trust me, you absolutely have to try these.

the pawn hong kong

The Devils on Horseback (for non-Brits: dates wrapped in streaky bacon) were delicious and strangely reminiscent of a crisp British Christmas.

I would seldom order radishes or olives, but Chef Anthony may have made a convert out of me, as both were amazing and begged me to go back for more.

the pawn hong kong

That wasn’t even the first course! Our actual first course began with six beautiful Essex oysters. Oysters, admittedly, are slightly wasted on me, as I never enjoy them enough to back for seconds. For the real oyster lover, however, this is a good thing, as it meant he was able to go back for seconds… and thirds… and fourths.

the pawn hong kong

The skilfully presented 42-degree Butter Poached Salmon was amazingly light and delicate, with the delicious chunks of pickled beetroot and lemon puree really serving to draw out its deeper flavours.

the pawn hong kong

Again something I would never order is asparagus soup; this one however, with its creamy yet rustic texture, was divine, topped with a quail’s egg and crispy shallots to make a wonderful soothing yet summery dish.

the pawn hong kong

I had my eye on the Ham Hock from the moment I looked at the menu. It was layered with chunky dried apricots and served atop a bed of onion purée and mustard fruits. Its gorgeous texture that fell apart in the mouth matched perfectly with the rustic crusty granary bread.

the pawn hong kong

A Rack of Pork served with rustic apple sauce, roast potatoes and gravy was wonderful, yet even better was the 24-hour Berkshire Pork Belly with broad beans and garden peas. When the pork had been cooking for 24 hours, I knew it would be tender, but didn’t quite anticipate how tender and how full of flavour it would be, made the more so by the sweet rhubarb puree that accompanied it.

the pawn hong kong

The Pan roasted sea bass with thin slivers of pickled fennel served on a bed of olive oil mashed potato with green beans and coriander had an ever so slightly Asian flavour to it and a definite summery freshness to match.

the pawn hong kong

First prize would have to go to the Oxtail Cottage Pie. Designed for two to share, this could happily have served all four of us (given how much other food we had!). The slow-cooked oxtail was more than tender, melting at the slightest touch of a fork and infused with red wine and shallots. The Montgomery cheddar potato topping was creamy enough to complement the meat without stealing its thunder.

the pawn hong kong

Somehow we still had room for dessert, starting with a White chocolate and ginger cheesecake with ginger brittle. The cheesecake itself was light and fluffy, verging on the texture of a mousse. The addition of the ginger drew away from the sickly sweetness that I often find with white chocolate.

the pawn hong kong

Next up, carrot cake served with condensed milk ice cream. Although the cake was good, I was actually more impressed with the ice cream, and might even go as far as to say that I think my own carrot cake might be better. Chef Anthony, I challenge you to a carrot cake-off!

the pawn hong kong

We were all surprised that our favourite of the three desserts was the Melon & Strawberry. This is made with vacuum-compressed watermelon and cantaloupe melon, topped with strawberry sorbet. It tasted like a juicier, healthier version of a watermelon Jolly Rancher. It is then finished with chocolate-mint leaves (think After Eight in leaf version) to give it an added refreshing yet decadent touch.

the pawn hong kong

And then came the cheese; if there is a separate stomach for dessert, I think there is a third stomach for cheese. The Pawn’s cheese is flown in from Neal’s Yard in London. Of the four kinds we tried – Isle of Mull cheddar, Ogleshield, Innes goat’s cheese and Cashel Blue – it was the blue cheese, with its rich, creamy texture, that stole my heart.

The Pawn is not just your stereotypical British restaurant. The design is British, many of the ingredients and the flavours are British, but The Pawn goes so much deeper than just bangers and mash, with prices to match – it isn’t cheap as chips, but, really, what did you expect?!

The Pawn

62 Johnston Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2866 3444

www.thepawn.com.hk 

Have a read of my mini-review of The Pawn on Localiiz. You might find other exciting restaurants on there too!

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Red Kitchen

11 Jun

 

 

Since starting The Dim Sum Diaries over a year ago, I have become much more adventurous and strive to travel further afield to feed my tum in areas I consider outside of my comfort zone. That said, I have, until now, kept my ‘adventures’ to still fairly well-trodden areas. However, last week, I ventured into the ‘ghetto’ that is Cheung Sha Wan to try Red Kitchen.

I say ‘ghetto’ because I was quite honestly surprised by how eerily quiet and empty the streets were, bar the odd pedestrian standing on a street corner, or group of drunk locals enjoying a game of cards and some dinner. Had I been in any other country, I might have been a little apprehensive about walking the unknown streets; in Hong Kong, however, we felt safe as houses. Though perhaps not as safe as the run down houses (slash apartments) that lined the streets as we came out of the MTR station.

After almost getting lost due to the restaurant being on the opposite end of the street than we had originally thought, we arrived at Red Kitchen, an unassuming, small restaurant tucked away between residential buildings. Signage is in Chinese, all menus are in Chinese and the staff speak only Cantonese; it is as local as they come. Fortunately we had a Cantonese-speaker amongst us, who was able to understand the descriptions of dishes given by the waiter, although some ingredients were so unusual that she was unable to translate them into English. We knew, therefore, that the meal would put our taste buds to the test to try to decipher the ingredients present.

As we were only four people, we were restricted to ordering the ‘Set A’ menu. A nine-course meal for a mere $200 each was fine by me, so although I had no clue what we were getting, I had no complaints about menu ‘Set A’.

It began with a cucumber and fish maw salad: paper-thin slivers of cucumber doused in rice wine vinegar were topped with jelly-like sheets of fish maw, a refreshing combination of flavours and textures that set the bar high for the rest of the meal.

To follow, a rather ominous-looking pot of black soup arrived. Rather like being in the sea and not knowing what’s underneath me, this deathly opaque soup frightened me a little bit. However, to taste, it was comforting and delicious, almost like a more flavoursome vegetable broth, rich with mushrooms and root vegetables. According to the waiter, this is a very healthy soup that is ‘good for the body’. Glad to hear it.

Next up, and definitely more appealing to look at, were some humungous deep fried oysters. These plump, creamy oysters were deliciously crispy on the outside, finished with a sprinkling of salt and pepper.

The next dish, which apparently translated to something like ‘fish in a purse’, was hands down the best dish of the night. Little bundles of meaty, boneless white fish were wrapped around some smoked ham and abalone mushrooms, then encased in Chinese cabbage and served in a bowl of delicate broth.

A bowl of pork and bean curd sheets braised in fermented red beans followed. Although the pork wasn’t much to look at and was difficult to eat, it was beautifully tender and intensely flavoured. The bean curd sheets were just as tasty too.

We had high expectations of the signature stuffed duck, but were sadly let down by the blandness of it. The whole duck was deboned, stuffed with rice, chestnuts and salted egg, before being sewn back together and roasted. There was far too much rice, not enough meat and, although I feel like a total gweilo saying this, it would probably have benefitted from a sprinkling of soy sauce. It was the sweet chestnuts and salted egg that really stood out in this dish.

The tofu and baby pak choy was again not as good as it could have been: the vegetables were delicious and crunchy, whilst the tofu, although wonderfully silky, was lacking in flavour.

The last savoury dish of king prawns cooked in honey, though difficult to extract from their shells, were perfectly cooked and deliciously moreish; sadly there was only one each.

To finish, we were served a plate of red date cake. Although not everyone’s cup of tea, I loved this dessert, which was decadently sweet and wonderfully gooey. I was quite pleased not everyone liked it as it meant more for me!

Although Red Kitchen still has some imperfections, it has proven that trips outside of our comfort zone are very much worthwhile. The beauty of Red Kitchen is that, as dishes are prepared to cater for the exact number in your party, you are able to try nine different dishes without being overwhelmed or uncomfortably full. Where in Central would we find a comparative gem that serves a nine-course feast for only $200? Nowhere, I tell you.

Red Kitchen

542 Fuk Wing Street
Cheung Sha Wan
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 6769 0299 or 9094 0584

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