Archive | 17:30

Magnolia

22 Aug

Since moving back to Hong Kong last year, I had heard a lot of hype about Lori Granito’s Magnolia, but had not had the chance to try it until this weekend for a very good friend’s birthday party. If you know how excited I get about food, you can only imagine the excitement that had been built up over the last year about trying Magnolia’s Creole cuisine.

I had been advised that a night at Magnolia involved a LOT of food, so purposefully chose to wear a very floaty dress, and I now understand that this was definitely a wise move. There is no point in going to Magnolia unless you are prepared to be very well fed. A good tip is to have a fairly light lunch and go for a run a couple of hours before dinner to make sure you are extra hungry and ready for a feast, as that is exactly what Magnolia is: a feast!

The idea is to arrive at 8pm sharp, where you are greeted by the Magnolia team with a welcome cocktail and some canapés. I unfortunately arrived at 8:25 so was not able to make the most of the reception, although I did head straight for the food table where the freshly baked bread with sundried tomato, cream cheese and pesto spread was calling out my name. I could have devoured the whole plate, but was quickly reminded that there was so much more to come.

We were led through the open kitchen, where the sights and aromas of southern American splendours made our mouths water, and upstairs into our private dining room.

The first dish to kick off the feast was a bowl of gumbo soup. With fresh prawns, crab claws, sausage, rice and a fair amount of chilli, this dish perfectly matched the standards I had been expecting for the night.

Fried green tomatoes with crayfish salad

Next we were each served a small plate of deep-fried green tomatoes with a crayfish salad. The little green tomatoes were incredible, coated in a Cajun batter, which was so good that I couldn’t care less how bad they were for me!

To follow these starters, an overwhelming variety of dishes were brought in and placed in the centre of the table to be shared, family style, including fried catfish strips, sweet potato mash, mustard greens with bacon, chicken etouffee with steamed rice, sausage jambalaya, Cajun BBQ ribs and cornbread muffins.

Cajun BBQ ribs

I particularly enjoyed the sausage jambalaya, always one of my favourite dishes, and the warm cornbread muffins were delicious. The dish that truly shone, however, was the BBQ ribs. The meat was so tender that it slid straight off the bone and melted in the mouth. Although I was almost reaching optimum fullness, I could not resist eating more of these ribs!

I had baked a carrot cake (for which the recipe can be found here), so after singing ‘Happy Birthday’, the cake was served alongside Magnolia’s famous pecan pie (pictured above). Obviously this was a little over-indulgent, but you can’t have a birthday without cake! If I may say so myself, my cake was pretty damn tasty, and several people mentioned that they actually preferred it to the pie. I do think that they were just being polite, however, as the pie was amazing! The glutton here polished off both desserts, meaning I was even more grateful to be wearing a floaty dress. Fortunately not everyone was as greedy as me, so a large doggy bag provided cake and pie for breakfast on Sunday.

Magnolia is completely BYOB, without corkage charge, and the attentive waiters are constantly on the lookout to top up empty wine and water glasses.

They request for the $450 per person (not bad at all for the amount of food on offer) to be paid prior to the meal, to avoid any cancellations, and as you do not part with any money on the actual night, it almost feels like you’re having a free meal!

Just in case you’re still hungry, as you leave, you are presented with a little gift box containing a yummy little cupcake from Lori’s cupcake company, Sprinkles. Even if the thought of ever eating again is unbearable, accept the cake, as you’ll be grateful the following day!

If you’re looking for a down to earth private kitchen that isn’t absurdly expensive yet serves deliciously wholesome food, then I would definitely recommend Magnolia. You may well roll out of there and it might not be the most conducive idea for a night out afterwards, but fight through it, and a couple of Jaeger bombs later, you’ll be right as rain!

Magnolia

Shop 5, G/F
17 Po Yan Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2530 9880

Date visited: Saturday 20th August 2011

Have a read of my mini-review of Magnolia on Localiiz too - you could find some other exciting restaurants on there worth trying!

Le Chéri

22 Aug

I was recently asked by Timeout HK to do a review of a new French-Italian fusion restaurant in western Mid-Levels called Le Chéri. It’s one of those restaurants, like many others in Hong Kong, that has all the right ideas and has the potential to be a real success, but still has a lot to learn.

To begin with, the décor screams neither French nor Italian to me. The seats are red velvet and fake leather, the walls are painted a glittery black and there is one of those truly classy shiny mirror and tile mosaics behind the bar. With a couple of huge chandeliers, it would be the perfect Chinese restaurant.

Our first choice of white wine was sold out and apparently our second choice was not expected to be drunk as it was room temperature and only arrived at our table after we had already been served our starters.

Although we had each chosen one starter and one main for ourselves, each dish was served one at a time in the centre of the table, to be eaten in true Chinese fashion, shared between the two of us. I personally love sharing food as it means you get to taste everyone else’s food, leaving less chance of the evil food envy, but I know that not everyone is of this same mentality. What if, for example, one of the diners was a vegetarian?

Baked pumpkin cannelloni

The first of our shared starters, baked pumpkin cannelloni with pesto, was a complete disappointment. The pasta was certainly not fresh as it was rather chewy, and the pumpkin and pesto had no flavour at all.

Italian style calamari and broccoli salad

The second starter, however, Italian style calamari and broccoli salad with lemon vinaigrette, made up for the poor cannelloni. This was a really simple dish but all the flavours were so fresh and light, leaving us with the promise that this could actually turn out to be quite a decent meal.

Black cod with eggplant cream pasta

The pan-fried black cod fillet with eggplant cream sauce pasta was very good, although only after I had added a pinch of salt and some pepper. I particularly liked the creamy pasta sauce although the eggplant was not entirely evident.

Veal tenderloin with zucchini and bacon

The pan-fried Netherlands veal tenderloin with shallot cream sauce could have been the perfect dish except for the fact that the veal was slightly overcooked and chewy. Wrapped in courgette and bacon, and served with mashed potato, the great flavour almost made up for the fact that it was overcooked, but not quite.

Crème brulée

For dessert, we had the choice of crème brulée… or crème brulée (I think they need to work on their dessert menu to incorporate some chocolate options), so we asked for one to share. As we were the only people actually paying full price for our food (everyone else seemed to have pre-bought vouchers from Groupon), we were given an extra dessert free of charge. The top had a good crunch to it, but the actual crème part was stone cold, although still pretty tasty so I was grateful to have my own portion!

Service was a little slow: we were offered neither the wine list nor if we wanted a dessert, both of which we had to ask for. Nevertheless, the waiters are all very friendly and Terence, one of the founding partners, had a long conversation with us about his passion for European food and thus desire to open Le Chéri. It’s always refreshing to hear someone talk with such passion, especially about food!

Terence particularly loves oysters, and so has incorporated a raw oyster bar. Although we didn’t try the oysters, the other diners seemed to be thoroughly enjoying them.

The total bill came to $1027, rather expensive for what it was, and this perhaps could be one of the things they need to rethink if they really want to get this restaurant off the ground. Its now rather hidden location will soon be a highly sought after spot once the Centre Street escalator is completed, so perhaps by that time the kinks will have been ironed out and they’ll be herding in guests to try their hopefully perfectly cooked veal tenderloin.

Le Chéri

Shop 6, G/F Wah Fai Court
Ying Wa Terrace
Centre Street
Sai Ying Pun
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3480 0717

Date visited: Friday 19th August 2011

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