If you’re familiar with my love of pancakes (see my Top 10 Pancakes feature), then you’ll understand my excitement when I heard about a restaurant – fittingly named Stack – dedicated entirely to these fluffy treats!
Stack was opened by Caleb and Joshua Ng, the lovely twins behind F&B consultancy company Twins Kitchen (also co-owners of cute café Common Ground). It was initially only open for dinner, serving savoury and sweet pancakes and bottled cocktails. Everyone knows, however, that the best time to eat pancakes is for breakfast (or brunch), particularly after a heavy night out or an intense workout. Stack therefore recently started serving a weekend brunch and we thought it was about time we checked out their pancakes to see how they fared on the pancake scale.
Seating no more than around 15 diners (advanced bookings are strongly advised), Stack, on the corner of Eastern and Third Street, is a small yet lively spot lit up by neon lights informing you that pancakes are for both “day and night.” Seats are positioned around a long bar that overlooks the tiny kitchen, creating an intimate and personal experience.
Whilst we were deciding which pancakes to order, we were intrigued by the sound of the red wine grapefruit. Served inside a hollowed-out grapefruit, this dish was so simple yet so delicious. The refreshing grapefruit was drizzled in a sweet red wine reduction and garnished with rocket leaves, which nicely balanced the tartness of the fruit itself. We already have ideas to serve something similar as a starter at our next dinner party!
Instead of a regular serving of eggs benedict, at Stack you get Mr Benedict’s Duck – poached duck eggs with bacon, served on pancakes instead of English muffins. Given that duck eggs in general always have a richer, much more intense flavour, I actually thought they worked really nicely with the pancakes; although they didn’t absorb as much of the egg yolk and hollandaise sauce as a muffin would have, the pancakes were lovely and light, without being too filling.
When we ordered ‘The Hash’, I expected it to be a giant hash brown (given its $68 price tag). But this was so much better than that; this was a bowl full to the brim with fried potato, onion and duck meat, topped with spring onions and sour cream. I heard some complaints that the duck meat was a bit too rich, but personally I loved it.
I’m all for jazzing up classic dishes, but if a restaurant prides itself on its pancakes, we felt it was important to try them in their most simplest of forms: Granny’s pancakes. This was a stack of three pancakes, drizzled with butter and maple syrup, sprinkled with chopped almonds and topped with almond ice cream. If I refer to my pancake rating scale, these would have scored 5/5 for presentation, 4/5 for portion size, 4/5 for fluffiness, and 4/5 for quality of syrup (obviously there was no bacon here so I can’t judge on that), leaving a total score of 17/20, which takes them right up amongst the top of the charts!
One of Joshua’s favourite dishes is the banana chips, and I can definitely see why. First you have some thin, crunchy banana crisps (for any Venezuelans out there, think Platanitos!), and below these some chunks of super ripe bananas deep-fried in the lightest of batters. I enjoyed eating mine with what remained of my portion of Granny’s pancakes and maple syrup.
Once you’ve added on some Aeropress coffee and/or a fresh juice each, brunch is likely to cost around $500 for two. Stack is a very cool place with an interesting concept. For me, pancakes are always going to be a winner at brunch; it’s pancakes for dinner (except of course on Pancake Day) that I find a little bit harder to understand. But then again, these are “day & night pancakes!”
G/F, 1 Third Street
Sai Ying Pun
Tel: +852 2549 9787
Closed on Mondays