Remember the time I reviewed Chef Studio by Eddy and was blown away by Chef Eddy’s genuinely lovely personality and delicious cooking? After years of satisfying hungry customers in a hard to find industrial building in Wong Chuk Hang, Chef Eddy Leung has closed his private kitchen and opened Chez Ed just around the corner from Times Square, where he continues to fill his tables with old and new customers eager for some excellent French food cooked with real passion.
The new space isn’t particularly notable. You still get the cosy, intimate vibe of being in a private kitchen, but, I must say, it doesn’t have quite as much character as Chef Studio did. Eyes are naturally drawn to the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant, where you can see Eddy and his team hard at work creating their masterpieces.
Chef Eddy’s eight-course tasting menu changes monthly based on what’s in season. He has kept some of his old favourites alongside new and creative dishes prepared with high quality ingredients. Although it wasn’t on the menu, Chef Eddy knew how much I loved his scrambled eggs, so he prepared a small portion for me, which he then topped with fresh shavings of black truffle. These are the fluffiest, creamiest, smoothest eggs you could ever have and, topped with more black truffle than there was egg, the dish was heavenly.
Sea urchin is something that doesn’t generally excite me and sometimes even scares me a little bit. Chef Eddy’s uni with marinated maguro (tuna), pear and aloe vera, served in a sea urchin shell, however, was fantastic. The flavours were incredibly fresh, and the sweetness of the aloe vera and pear nicely balanced the briny flavour of the uni.
A lot of effort goes in to making Chef Eddy’s king crab and sweet corn soup, starting with removing the kernels from the corn and slowly cooking the heart over a number of hours, to create an intensely rich and sweet flavour. He adds popcorn to the soup, which added a buttery hint and a welcome crunch.
The pan-fried Hokkaido scallop was cooked to utter bouncy perfection, served on a bed of beurre blanc sauce, topped with golden shenki caviar. If there had been another, we wouldn’t have complained!
The following dish included half a mushroom and a chunk of foie gras. Now, this sounds a little pathetic, but, given matsutake mushrooms are hard to find and given its lovely, aromatic flavour, it was just enough. The seared foie gras was encased in a layer of polenta, giving it a lovely crunch that gave way to an amazingly buttery and rich centre.
Next came a fillet of amadai served on lobster sauce with puréed potatoes that was wholesome and delicious. The skin-side of the fish had been fried until crispy, providing a perfect contrast with the flaky white fish and creamy potatoes.
After a refreshing yuzu sorbet to cleanse our palates, came possibly my favourite dish of the evening: slow-roasted Australian rack of lamb. Having been cooked at a low temperature over the course of several hours, the lamb was perfectly pink and incredibly tender. On its own, it carried that lovely gamey flavour that is expected of lamb, and paired beautifully with the accompanying black garlic, ratatouille, roast potatoes and rosemary jus.
Chef Eddy’s love for truffle continues with his cheese course; here a slice of Brie was first infused with Tasmanian black truffle, before being torched and served very simply with a couple of crackers and a dried apricot. The apricot didn’t work with the cheese in my opinion, but the Brie itself was deliciously decadent.
Another of my favourite dishes was surprisingly perhaps the simples of them all: summer fruits served with homemade lychee sorbet. The sorbet was light, refreshing and just sweet enough, which, paired with the juicy peaches and berries, nicely rounded off the meal.
Chef Eddy had a story to tell about each and every dish and it was distinctly evident just how much he loves what he does, something that I find incredibly refreshing to see. A set menu at Chez Ed will set you back $980 (free corkage on one bottle of red wine between two; white wine and Champagne must be bought at the restaurant) but he also does lunch sets starting at $280. I wouldn’t pay that much every day for dinner, but for a special occasion where you know you’re going to get delicious food made with premium ingredients, presented with passion and a genuine smile, it’ll be worth your buck.
38 Yiu Wa Street
Tel: +852 3104 4664