the drunken duck hong kong

After two of its restaurants sadly closed last year, Enoteca Group has returned with a brand new concept on Staunton Street called The Drunken Duck. Whilst still maintaining the sharing ethos, The Drunken Duck offers British gastropub-style food with an Asian twist.

With stripped interiors, exposed columns, worn leather and lots of wood, the space is meant to resemble a tavern where travellers gather to eat and drink. It has a shabby-chic, comfortable look and feel to it where you can easily while away hours on end.

Heading the kitchen team is British chef David Tamlyn, whose background includes working at several Michelin-starred restaurants including Pied à Terre and The Square in London. His menu offers the sort of dishes you’d expect to find in a traditional British pub, such as pork pies, scotch eggs and apple crumble, yet each with a notable Asian influence.

the drunken duck hong kong

Whilst browsing the menu, we nibbled on some caramelised popcorn with chilli flakes and bacon bits that set the meal up nicely and went very well with a refreshing glass of cider. Annoyingly, however, Hong Kong’s humidity meant that, although the popcorn started nice and crunchy, by the time we reached the bottom of the bag, it was already a little stale.

the drunken duck hong kong

The Drunken Duck terrine consisted of duck and char siu pressed together to form a delicious yet crumbly terrine, paired with Zhenjiang black vinegar onion chutney that went down an absolute treat.

the drunken duck hong kong

Scotch eggs are not something I eat very often, yet when I see them on a menu I am always drawn to them. Here, the ‘Thai Thai’ scotch egg might actually be one of the best I’ve ever had. Instead of the usual layer of sausage meat, this one had a scrumptious Thai-style minced pork with lemongrass and spices, similar to what you get on one of those Thai pork sugarcane skewers. To top it all off, the egg was perfectly cooked with a nice runny yolk.

the drunken duck hong kong

The roasted lamb and mint dumplings can either be steamed or fried – we were recommended to have them steamed, as they are similar to xiao long bao. If you enjoyed the lamb dumplings at Cicada, these are even better, served with a tasty roasted vine tomato momo dip.

the drunken duck hong kong

We couldn’t go to The Drunken Duck without sampling the Drunken Duck! So we ordered a quarter between the two of us, which was actually a pretty generous amount. Having been marinated in five spice, and then roasted with a can of Tsing Tao beer (hence the name) in a traditional duck roasting oven, it had an unusual yet satisfying flavour. In fact, I prefered the duck on its own to with the hoisin sauce, which was overpoweringly sweet. My only complaints, however, are firstly that the skin wasn’t particularly crispy, and secondly that the pancakes were cut into quarters, which made them quite awkward to wrap.

the drunken duck hong kong

For dessert, we sampled the caramelised banana tart, which proved to be a kind of love-it-or-hate-it dessert – thankfully I was the lover and I enjoyed the sticky sweetness of it all, paired with even sweeter condensed milk.

Feedback from friends who visited the same night we did, is that we seem to have ordered well, as apparently not all traditional pub dishes work with an Asian twist. The ones we tried, however, were mostly delicious, the service was excellent and prices were pretty reasonable (we paid $1000 total including three rounds of drinks). I’ve always liked the Enoteca Group restaurants and found The Drunken Duck to be a welcome addition to Soho. Next time I’m going back for the Thai red curry pie!

P.S. rumour has it Cicada is reopening soon… $30 lychee bellinis anyone?!

The Drunken Duck

G/F, 44 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2803 0050

www.enotecagroup.com

5 Responses to “The Drunken Duck”

  1. robert cooper

    Dear Ali,
    many thanks for the review and as always it was good to see you on the night, although we tried to shy away and let you independently eat and taste. Yes Cicada is coming back and although we have signed a site next door to Enoteca on Elgin it is held up with some Building Department issues. Watch that space and yes the lychee Bellini’s will feature :)
    rob and kim x

    Reply
  2. Richard Evans

    I had dinner at the Drunken Duck last night, and like all of the Enoteca Group’s restaurants you can just feel the care and love that goes into the food and creating the environment too. We munched through the Onion Bhaji with Mint Jelly (good portion, big enough for two/three to share with other dishes), and thought we had hit a real winner, but then those Scotch Eggs arrived at the table and we both agreed they were just amazing. A perfect balance of soft runny egg yolk and thai influenced flavors. As a dish it hinted to me the traditional Thai dish of of Son In Laws Eggs, but its not fushion, its like a whole new version of an English Pub dish… an absolute winner. We could not resist the drunken duck, and being two of us, ordered the half. Clearly note has been taken of your comments, as the pancakes were whole.. the skin was crispy, and the sauce, not too sweet. The duck was just simply melt in your mouth delicious. Don’t expect this to be like Peking Duck, we are talking a slab of rich, moist breast meat from one plump duck, with the fat so perfectly rendered out I could not fault it. Desert followed, with a crumble and the pineapple sticky pudding – appropriately rich and stick to your hips good. BUT, we also had a little tester of the house made ice-cream, sour cream, lime and lemongrass – which was basically, hard as this may be to believe, like tasting Thailand… just like we think it should taste, not that I have ever thought about what it should taste like before… but that was it instantly. For food to transport you, that is an achievement – for two of us, three courses each, a couple of glasses of very good wine, a bill of just over HK$750 – which for food this good, is such good value. I too will be back.

    Reply
  3. John chen

    Sounds like a alan yau concept I went to in London called the duck and rice
    Which is a Chinese gastropub

    Reply

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