Tag Archives: italian cuisine

Il Milione

22 May

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

il milione hong kongDespite there being Italian restaurants practically on every street corner, the opening of a new one will always excite me. Needless to say that the first whispers I heard of brand new Il Milione Bar & Ristorante had me impatiently waiting to put it to the test.

il milione hong kong

Il Milione, named after Marco Polo’s travelogue, exudes elegance the moment you walk in. The first thing you see is its grand vintage-style bar stacked high with an insane selection of spirits. The bar, which is manned by “Bar Maestro” Giancarlo Mancino (formerly at Otto e Mezzo), serves a vast selection of drinks from its 13th century style ‘giornale’, or newspaper menu. Giancarlo has his own brand of vermouth, Mancino Vermouth, which he uses to prepare his signature negronis. Only one litre of the secret recipe house negroni is prepared each night, so when it’s gone, it’s gone! Whilst a regular negroni is a little too strong for me, the ‘washed negroni’, made with elderflower and pink grapefruit zest was a refreshing start to a great evening. If negronis really aren’t for you, the apple martinis are amongst the best I’ve ever tasted.

il milione hong kong

The bar does not stop at delicious drinks, however; every evening between 6.30 and 8.30, Il Milione serves traditional Italian aperitivi to snack on whilst you sip your drinks.

il milione hong kong

Moving further into the restaurant is a casual lounge area, followed by a glitzy dining room, which again instantly radiates elegance and class, where crisp white tablecloths are set against a dark ceiling lined with gold circular mirrors.

What truly stands Il Milione apart from any other Italian restaurant around town is its focus on Umbrian cuisine, led by Michelin-starred Umbrian chef Marco Gubbiotti.

il milione hong kong

The amuse bouche of young cherries with chicken liver pate and anchovies was an indication of the level of quality we could expect for the rest of the meal. The flavours were bold and fresh, leaving us in eager anticipation of what was to come.

il milione hong kong

The meal proper began with ‘Baccalà su Baccalà’, or ‘cod on cod’. Given Umbria’s landlocked location, cod was apparently one of the only seafood items that could be preserved for transportation. Here it is cooked three ways: poached cod filet, crispy cod skin and creamed cod, served with Umbrian chickpeas and candied orange – delicate yet delicious.

il milione hong kong

Following this came lobster tail in lobster soup with homemade cappelletti pasta and green peas. The lobster had a good bite to it and paired perfectly with the delicate parcels of chicken, pork, beef and prosciutto. For me, the green peas were a little undercooked and seemed out of place here, although they did add a touch of freshness to the dish.

il milione hong kong

The pan-fried pigeon breast that followed was utterly divine, served on an open ravioli of minced pigeon laced with typically Umbrian spices. The lingering notes of cocoa powder, cinnamon and honey gave this dish a deliciously sweet versus savoury contrast.

To cleanse the palate, we were served a carrot, orange and celery soup with coconut ricotta and gianduja – a somewhat bizarre combination that did in fact come together perfectly and did exactly what it was designed to do.

il milione hong kong

Although on paper, the lentil cannolo with pistachio mousse did not overly excite me, on plate and in mouth, it most certainly did. The crispy cannolo was made with crushed brown lentils, giving it an unusual texture compared to its classic counterpart. Instead of the usual ricotta with pistachios, the cannolo came stuffed with silky smooth pistachio mousse, which was neither too heavy nor too sweet and balanced nicely with the slightly sharp blackberry sorbet.

This was all, of course, paired with some truly excellent Italian wines, which the restaurant’s passionate sommeliers picked out for us.

Service is thankfully reflective of the overall standard of the restaurant, but this does also mean that you can be sure to expect to pay for the luxury, with starters from $200 and mains from around $300. A tasting menu, without drinks, will cost you $990. Bear in mind, however, that authentic, high quality ingredients are flown in from Umbria twice weekly and this might make the bill slightly less painful. Will I be back? Did I mention how good the apple martinis are, made the more so by free bar snacks?

Il Milione

G/F, Hutchison House
10 Harcourt Road
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2481 1120

www.il-milione.com

Eating Sai Ying Pun

17 Jan

In an effort to explore more local neighbourhoods, I recently found myself having dinner at four restaurants in one night. How else am I supposed to try as many restaurants as possible when I’m only allowed three meals a day?!

With no real plan in mind other than to just go exploring, my stomach took us on an adventure in the ‘West Side’, around the streets of up and coming Sai Ying Pun.

Derby West Hong Kong

Derby West

Our first port of call was a British pub on Queen’s Road West. Where local restaurants and shops selling dried fish (and other unidentified objects) abound, a British pub is the last thing you’d expect to find. But find it we did, and although there were one too many stereotypical (or perhaps even verging on tacky) decorations, Derby West definitely can be classified as a good old British pub. All that’s missing is the smell of stale beer and cigarettes, and possibly a slot machine too.

Derby West Hong Kong

Although the curry smelt delicious, we didn’t want to fill up on our first stop, so we opted instead for a plate of Indian vegetable samosas, as, in the words of a wise man, “you can’t get more British than that!” Sadly the samosas weren’t the best I’ve ever had; they didn’t stand up on their own for starters. However, it was pub snacks we wanted and it was pub snacks we got; we weren’t expecting gourmet food.

I wouldn’t say I’d trek all that way to visit Derby West again, but if I find myself in the area, I certainly might be tempted to see if the curry is as delicious as it smelt. And with beer and wine around the $40 mark, I can see why this is popular with HKU students, even if, unlike a real British pub, they do add an unnecessary 10% service charge.

G/F, 389-391 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun 2698 1616

BBQ Hong Kong

A little wander up the road onto Third Street took us to BBQ, a random little place that I had heard a lot of good things about. To look at, it isn’t particularly appealing: bright lights, basic tables and chairs, no fancy décor. It does however serve up some pretty decent grilled seafood and robatayaki-style skewers.

BBQ Hong Kong

The garlic scallops were slow in coming but tasted delicious, provided you’re a fan of a LOT of garlic. (I probably wouldn’t recommend having these on a first date.) At $108 per piece, you’d expect the king prawns to be good and thankfully they were: perfectly tender with a generous amount of flesh to sink your teeth into. While the sirloin steak skewer wasn’t hugely impressive, perhaps the best dish of the lot was the spicy pork, chopped up into strips and sprinkled in shichimi, making it irresistibly moreish.

129-133 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun 2548 9880

Memo's Hong Kong

Memo’s

I noticed this place on a recent visit to Fuku Robatayaki & Kaki, so as we were in the area, I couldn’t resist checking it out.

Its décor of yellow walls with exposed brick panels is inviting, as it reminded me of some of the casual neighbourhood restaurants I visited in Italy. When we had a chat with Chef Memo himself, he told us that this is exactly what he had hoped to create: a neighbourhood restaurant that Sai Ying Pun-based families could come to again and again.

Enticed by the leg of jamon Serrano and feeling the weight of BBQ’s skewers in our tummies, we decided to share a squid and jamon salad. These may not sound like ingredients you would normally put together, but I promise you that this salad was utterly delicious. The soft, buttery squid had not the smallest hint of chewiness and went perfectly with the seriously high quality cured ham. The caramelised onions, fennel bulbs and salad leaves were just a bonus.

Memo's Hong Kong

We also shared an amazing chorizo pizza. With a wafer thin crust and stringy fresh mozzarella cheese, this was one of the finest pizzas I’ve tasted in Hong Kong. It’s not the cheapest, at about $140, but it’s definitely a generous size, perfect for sharing.

I’ll most certainly be returning to taste more of Memo’s menu. I was particularly interested in the slow-cooked lamb shank for four people; all that remained on a neighbouring table was a very clean giant bone, suggesting it was seriously delicious.

G/F, 62 High Street, Sai Ying Pun 2858 8173

Blue Butcher Hong KongBlue Butcher

Yes I know, it’s not in Sai Ying Pun, but in order to burn off our three mini-meals, we walked and walked until we found ourselves having dessert at Blue Butcher.

You know how I feel about the chocolate bread and butter pudding from when I reviewed Blue Butcher last year (read the review here). Needless to say that is exactly what we had, along with a glass of Sauternes to wash it down.

108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan 2613 9286

I discovered on this mini food crawl that this may be one of the best ways to experience restaurants. Not only do you get to taste more than the standard one place in one evening, but also, as you’re walking from place to place, chances are you’re burning off at least a few calories – perhaps a mouthful or two if you’re lucky. And do you know what that means? That you can eat more at the next place! Perhaps I’ll spend all my Friday nights eating at four restaurants whilst burning calories…

Other tasty restaurants in Sai Ying Pun:

Ba YiG/F, 43 Water Street, Sai Ying Pun 2484 9981
Fuku Robatayaki & Kaki69 High Street, Sai Ying Pun 2540 9961
Grassroots Pantry12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun 2873 3353
Hung Hing22-32 Pok Fu Lam Road, Sai Ying Pun 2858 2512
Kwan KeeShop 1, Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun 2803 7209
Light1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2559 9098
Pata Negra HouseG/F, 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2527 5181
Taco Chaca 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2525 2066

As well as many others of course – just go exploring!

Messina

1 Aug

 

 

 

 

messing hong kong

We Hong Kong Islanders are incurably lazy. When I was invited to try K.O Dining Group’s Italian restaurant, Messina, I shivered at the thought of having to travel ‘all the way’ out to Hung Hom. Although admittedly I did get a little lost on the way (it was the taxi driver’s fault, not mine), it turned out Hung Hom isn’t actually all that far away and needn’t be as scary as we think it is, especially if at the end of the journey awaits an incredible Italian feast!

Messina, named after a Sicilian city and designed to look like a Sicilian villa, serves modern southern Italian food prepared with classic French techniques in an elegant setting overlooking the harbour. Executive Chef Francesco Greco has worked at some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants, from Milan to Paris and New York to Shanghai, with many other exciting cities in between, and now at Messina it is clear that he certainly knows his stuff.

Messina Hong Kong

Rather than rifling through a menu, the selection of antipasti is brought to your table in a guéridon (or cart) and presented before you, so that you can see the fresh, raw ingredients that will go into whichever dish you choose. As every single one of them sounded (and looked) incredible, we selected a variety to share between the table.

Messina Hong Kong

Starting with the cold antipasti, the Cinta Senese pork cheek, although at first sight looked unbearably fatty, simply melted in the mouth and had the most amazing flavour. The San Daniele prosciutto was also beautiful and clearly of the highest quality; paired with fresh figs and fig compote, it was even more delicious. This only left the burrata cheese to rival the meats, and boy did it try: it was wonderfully silky and creamy, exactly as it should be.

Messina hong kong

From the hot antipasti selection, the zucchini flowers stuffed with cod mousse were simply divine: crispy on the outside with smooth, creamy, delicately flavoured mousse inside. The pan-fried scallops with Bronte pistachio salad, however, were even better and cooked to bouncy yet tender perfection. The crunchy pistachios were an excellent addition too.

Messina Hong Kong

The Sicilian red prawns, which came highly recommended by our super-friendly waiter, were sautéed in tomato and garlic, giving them that wonderful Mediterranean flavour that can never disappoint. However, my absolute favourite of the starters were the sardines ‘a Beccafico’, fresh sardine rolls stuffed with a pine nut, lemon, breadcrumb and raisin mixture; flavours that instantly transport you to southern Italy.

Messina Hong Kong

For primi piatti, we shared a Paccheri e crostacei and a Fettucce fresche. The former was lovely and light, a blend of lobster, scampi and again those wonderful Sicilian red prawns tossed with Pachino tomatoes and gorgeously fresh mezzi paccheri pasta. The fettucce was a little more rich, made with baby lamb and Marsala sauce, mixed with roasted red peppers and aubergine; although it was rich, I think it was my favourite of the two dishes, and again I loved how fresh the handmade pasta was.

Messina Hong Kong

For secondi piatti we also shared two between the four of us: Spigola e tartufo nero (pan-fried seabass) and Chef Greco’s signature dish, Maialino croccante (crispy suckling pig). The seabass was served in a black truffle sauce, with white and green asparagus, topped with more truffle and a fennel and rocket salad. It was beautifully tender and flaky, and I loved the array of flavours and textures on offer, even if it may have been a little salty.

Messina Hong Kong

I can understand why Chef Greco prides himself on his suckling pig. The succulent meat, wrapped in its delicate, crispy skin, is served on a bed of braised lentils and tropea onion marmalade, before being glazed in its own natural jus. Amazing.

Messina Hong Kong

What is even more amazing is the dessert, presented once more on a guéridon. As you know, I am a big (and I mean BIG) fan of dessert, so you cannot imagine the excitement when Mr. Guéridon was wheeled before us.

Messina Hong Kong

Although we were sad not to be able to try every single option, we certainly tried our hardest! We had tiramisu, pistachio ice cream, summer strawberry tart, banana caramel pudding, Settevelli chocolate cake, mixed berry panna cotta, and of course traditional Sicilian cannoli. Highlights were definitely the panna cotta and the Settevelli cake, a decadently rich chocoholic’s dream that makes my mouth water just thinking about it…

If you can’t already guess from the fact that a live menu is brought to your very table twice during the meal, service at Messina is top notch. Yes it’s in Hung Hom and yes it is expensive (an average meal for two without wine would cost between $1500-2000) but it is well worth the (less than 30-minute) trip from Central. I can assure you, it’s easier than trying to get all the way to Sicily.

Messina now also does a Sunday brunch starting at $350 for a 3-course meal. It begins with an antipasti sharing platter, followed by your choice from a small selection of mains, and finishes with your selection from the incredible guéridon for dessert. I’d go back just for the guéridon.

Messina

5/F The Harbourfront Landmark
11 Wan Hoi Street
Hung Hom
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 3746 2733

www.kodining.com

il Teatro at Wynn Macau

24 May

 

 

On the same girlie trip I talked about in my review of Wing Lei, we also tried il Teatro for dinner (yes, it was a rather indulgent day, I know!) Feel free to read about how we spent the earlier part of our super-indulgent day here, or skip straight to the food part and just keep reading.

After a pre-dinner cocktail at Cinnebar, we were seated in il Teatro, overlooking the spectacular fountain. Said fountain, we had been told, would perform a ‘show’ for us every 15 minutes, something that we were completely convinced we would tire of after the second time. However, every time the amazing cheesy music such as Pocahontas’ Colours of the Wind or Always Look on the Bright Side of Life came on and the water began to dance in time to it, we wanted to wave our arms in the air and join in. The choreography of the water, the music, the lights and the FIRE was incredible and so mesmerising. It is this show that in part gives the restaurant its name – the theatre.

Moving onto the real reason we were there, however – the food! Everything about our six-course meal was pure perfection – from the outstanding service by Bhong our Maitre d’, to the beautiful food presentation, to the taste, to the incredible wine-pairing put together by wonderful sommelier Michael.

To dwell, for a moment, on this wine-pairing, now I have had wine-pairings galore, but without any exaggeration whatsoever, none have been quite so good as Michael’s; although he is only 27 and therefore still learning, Michael is able to match a wine perfectly to its corresponding dish. In fact, even some wines that we initially weren’t sure we liked, when tasted again after a bite of risotto, for example, changed flavour entirely, in a way that perfectly balanced the essence of the dish.

Buffalo mozzarella with Parma ham and melon consommé

Our first starter of Buffalo mozzarella with Parma ham and melon consommé was a modern twist on the traditional classic Parma ham and melon dish that I so love. Here, the melon came in jelly form, creating a bed for the freshest mozzarella I’ve tasted in a long time.

Diver sea scallops

The Diver sea scallops melted in the mouth and were perfectly complemented by the roasted eggplant puree and shellfish emulsion, not to mention the crispy orange peel and eggplant skin – it’s just a shame we only got the tiniest pieces of these.

Pan-seared Sicilian red prawns over artichoke risotto

Dish number three of Pan-seared Sicilian red prawns over artichoke risotto was divine, made the more so by a sweet saffron emulsion. Perhaps it boils down to chef Anthony Alaimo’s New York-Italian background, but the risotto was so authentic, that we could close our eyes and be transported to somewhere in Northern Italy.

Pan-seared black cod with lobster salad

Following this came a Pan-seared black cod with lobster salad that was so divinely flaky, offering a subtle flavour that was enhanced by the lemongrass-scented clam broth. I’m not always fond of Chardonnay, but this fruity, unoaked Chamisal Chardonnay with its refreshing flavour, definitely won my heart.

Lamb chop scottadito

The first meat and final savoury dish of the night was a Lamb chop scottadito. This translates literally to ‘burnt fingers’ due to their being so delicious that it’s hard to resist eating them straight off the sizzling grill, and I must say they fit their name exactly right; the meat was so tender and bursting with flavour that I had to stop myself from picking them up and licking the bone clean. I also definitely polished off the Chateau Bernadotte 2007 Merlot it was so magically paired with.

Tahitian vanilla panna cotta

Ending the meal as it started with fresh, clean flavours came our Tahitian vanilla panna cotta with spiced pineapple and passion fruit sorbet – beautiful.

Chef Anthony’s signature menu with Michael’s wine-pairing will set you back MOP1,268 (around the same in HKD) which isn’t dreadful considering you’re dining at a five-star hotel, and hey, they even through in a damn good fountain show too; who needs the House of Dancing Water when you’ve got il Teatro?!

il Teatro

Wynn Macau
Rua Cidade de Sintra
NAPE
Macau

Tel: +853 8986 3663

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