Food trends can come and go, but a classic steakhouse is one type of restaurant that will never go out of fashion. The latest carnivores’ paradise to open in Hong Kong is Steak on Elgin, which, as its name suggests, serves steak on Soho’s Elgin Street.
Taking over the small, intimate space that was once TATE, Steak on Elgin is an elegant, yet understated space that doesn’t need enormous street signage to announce its arrival. In fact, all you’ll see from the outside is a subtle plaque stating the restaurant’s name. The interior is sleek and modern, yet comfortable, combining wood, marble and leather with feature lighting.
We visited when the restaurant was still in ‘soft opening’ with a limited menu, although we were told that they plan to keep the menu concise anyway, to showcase the quality of the dishes, made using seasonal ingredients and meats from the British Isles.
We started with a few starters in the middle to share, beginning with a beautiful Buffalo burrata from Campania, served on a bed of smoked tomato jam and basil oil, with juicy vine tomatoes on top. The cheese was wonderfully creamy, with the sweet tomato jam adding a lovely depth of flavour.
The house-cured gravlax topped with dill, pickled mustard seeds, capers and onions was also excellent, simply melting in the mouth.
My favourite of the starters was the grilled Spanish octopus, which carried a lovely charred flavour, yet a perfectly buttery texture, topped with an anchovy, roasted garlic and caper sauce that was just divine.
Although the main menu lists one cut each of pork, lamb and fish, it’s really all about the steak here, so, naturally, more space on the menu is dedicated to multiple cuts of British beef, which is all 100% grass-fed. Interestingly, all three couples at our table decided to order a 30oz UK Native Breeds dry-aged bone-in rib-eye designed for sharing between two. Since I could guarantee this was going to be decent meat and I refuse to order well-cooked beef (even when pregnant), we asked for ours medium, which came perfectly pink in the middle and more cooked on the edges, yet still incredibly tender. It carried a wonderful flavour on its own from having been dry-aged, but we were also served a trio of sauces – beef jus, béarnaise and peppercorn – should we want something a little extra.
To accompany our beef, we tried all four side dishes on the menu – glazed carrots, sautéed mushrooms, creamed spinach and triple-cooked hand-cut fries. Standouts were the creamed spinach and the fries, which we quickly realised wouldn’t even make it half way around our table and so we immediately ordered another helping.
Dessert options when we visited consisted of either a trifle or a traditional tiramisu, so obviously we ordered the latter. I enjoyed the texture, but felt the flavour was a little lacking. I couldn’t quite make out either the coffee or the chocolate flavour, and thought the mascarpone was a little too prominent.
Service was excellent throughout the meal. Including only two bottles of wine between six people, the bill amounted to around HKD2400 per couple. Of course, we have come to realise that steakhouses in Hong Kong don’t come cheap, but this one seemed particularly expensive. Each 30oz steak alone cost HKD1280, or HKD640 per person. I can’t help but equate that into pounds, which makes it up there amongst the most expensive steaks I’ve had! That said, provided you expect your bill to be hefty, Steak on Elgin is a lovely spot for a quiet date night or a tasty meal with friends.
Steak on Elgin
59 Elgin Street
Tel: +852 2627 0528