We certainly aren’t short on weekend brunch choices in food-obsessed Hong Kong, with each restaurant finding exciting ways to fill hungry tummies with as much food and drink as they can. Elegant bar and restaurant The Envoy in The Pottinger Hotel has recently introduced a new all-you-can-eat weekend brunch menu consisting of the restaurant’s signature colonial-inspired treats.
We visited on a lovely sunny Saturday, which enabled us to enjoy the beautiful terrace out the back. When sitting out there, it’s hard to imagine the chaos that goes on just a few floors below on Pottinger Street and Stanley Street!
The brunch menu begins with a selection of all-you-can-eat small plates. Given the wide variety and decent portion size of these, you can choose as many or as few as you like, depending on your group size. We began with the Pani Puri, as I remembered enjoying these so much on my previous visit to The Envoy. These little puffed balls of deliciousness were just as good as I remember and the DIY element makes them all the more fun! Unable to decide between the chickpea or the lemongrass chicken filling, we tried both and universally preferred the latter.
I love a good bao and the slow-cooked pork belly bao here did not disappoint. The crispy char siu-style pork had a lovely flavour that was complemented nicely by the sweet and sour pineapple relish, with a touch of hot sauce on the side for good measure.
The spicy sambal popcorn shrimps were lovely and light, although the batter annoyingly didn’t cling to the prawn and therefore sometimes slid off on its own.
Having loved the butter chicken lollipops on my previous visit, we naturally ordered these again. The chicken was perfectly crispy on the outside and lovely and juicy within. Just make sure you use a spoon to douse the lollipops in the dreamy curry sauce, as without it, the chicken doesn’t have a great deal of flavour.
From the “greens” section, Sir Pottinger’s squid salad was actually a little disappointing. The lightly torched squid, although nice and tender, was a little bland and the supposedly “spicy” salad leaves were not remotely spicy, making the whole dish just a little plain.
The numbing vegetables, on the other hand, were exactly as described, marinated in Sichuan pepper sauce that carried quite the tingle, making these spiralised veggies not for the faint hearted, yet deliciously moreish.
Knowing how much I enjoyed the bangers and mash last time, Chef Chetan Kohli insisted on bringing us out a small version this time. The flavours, again, were lovely, but I personally enjoy my sausages a little more browned than they were this time.
The “new school” fish and chips, a classic British favourite with an Asian twist, were excellent, the beer-batter thick and crispy and the accompanying curried tartar sauce absolutely heavenly.
The last time I tried the beef rendang cannelloni I was a little confused by the buffalo mozzarella on top. Perhaps the idea has grown on me, or perhaps my taste buds have changed with my pregnancy, but I actually loved the combination this time!
I was very surprised to learn that the brunch menu does not include dessert, as it’s always important to finish on something sweet. Apparently, desserts from the a la carte menu are available for gluttons like me who still need more food after such a feast, but I was quickly informed by the other half that I had eaten more than enough, so we called it a day at that. I did, however, wash down my feast with a rather lovely mocktail called Fresh Water, made with elderflower cordial, thyme syrup and yuzu juice.
The brunch menu is priced at $288 per person (not including service charge), with an option to add on free-flow wine and Perrier Jouët Champagne for an additional $228 per person. Although there are a few things that I think could be improved, overall, the brunch menu here is very satisfying and offers something a little different to the many egg-centric or buffet brunches you can find around town.
3/F, The Pottinger Hotel
74 Queen’s Road Central (entrance on Pottinger Street or Stanley Street)
Tel: +852 2169 3311