If you’re after a simple meal of steak and chips, these days you aren’t short of choices in Hong Kong. In the past couple of years there have been a number of restaurant openings whose models are based on that of the original Rélais de l’Entrecôte in Paris, one of which is L’Entrecôte de Paris on Wyndham Street. Having decided that perhaps people need more than just steak and chips in their life, L’Entrecôte de Paris has recently changed its menu to offer a wider selection of options alongside its signature steak-frites dish.
I enjoyed the restaurant the first time I tried it (see review here), actually thinking the steak here might have even been superior to its competition. So, although I was intrigued as to why the sudden change in the menu had occurred, I was keen to put it to the test to see how it compared to the original offerings.
We were recommended to try the raviole de Royan. This is apparently a typical summer dish in the Pyrenees consisting of handmade ravioli stuffed with herbs and smothered in a blue cheese cream sauce. Here the pasta is imported from France, which adds to the authenticity, even if it hints at a slight incompetence on the part of the chef. Regardless, it was absolutely delicious and more than a little bit moreish.
The clams à la Provençale were also tasty, served in a white wine, onion, tomato and garlic broth. I wouldn’t say they were the best clams I’ve ever tasted, but I enjoyed the light, delicate flavours.
Moving onto the mains, we tried the ginger beef tartare, which was unlike any beef tartare I have ever had. It came topped with thinly sliced cucumber, coriander and dill, with hints of ginger running through it, giving it a slight Asian twist. Whilst sometimes beef tartare can sit a little heavily in the stomach, the fresh herbs here kept this one lovely and light. Be warned though, this does come served with a mountain of chips, which somewhat counterbalances the lightness!
Despite the new menu, it would have been rude not to order the signature entrecôte steak with its famous sauce…and more chips. The steak, cooked medium-rare as requested – was as tasty as I remember it, and that sauce so good I could have devoured it with a spoon.
I wasn’t particularly impressed by the chips, which seemed like they had been sitting around a while and were neither hot nor crispy. I could be wrong, but I think they were frozen, as opposed to made fresh in-house.
Instead of dessert, we opted for a selection of French cheese, including comte, old mimolette and reblochon. In my mind, you can seldom go wrong with good French cheese.
The menu at L’Entrecôte de Paris is affordable, with starters well under $100 and main courses between $180 and $298. It has a fun, casual vibe and simple yet tasty food that definitely puts it on my list of recommended French restaurants.
L’Entrecôte de Paris
3/F, 46-48 Wyndham Street
Tel: +852 3182 0105