My staycation at the Grand Hyatt earlier this summer already proved that the hotel could put on a good French-style buffet and seriously good Italian fare. I was recently invited back to put its dim sum at One Harbour Road to the test.
One Harbour Road, a duplex Cantonese restaurant with incredible views of the harbour, is a chic representation of a 1930s style Chinese mansion with high ceilings, elegant wooden furnishings and plush carpeted flooring. Plants and water features give it a calming ambience that sets the mood for the entire meal.
As there were only two of us and we wanted to try as much as possible, we were given just the right amount of each dish; these photos are therefore not all representative of the actual portion sizes. We began with steamed fresh crabmeat dumplings with bamboo shoots and Chinese parsley. These were similar to the much loved har gao, but with a more tender, juicy interior, serving as the perfect contrast to the crispy deep-fried spring rolls. Whilst some restaurants fill these with any scraps of vegetables they can find, these were bursting with fresh, delicious prawns.
The pan-fried rice flour rolls (cheung fun) was a generously-sized portion and had all the components to make this a winning dish, particularly when smothered in the accompanying sesame and hoisin sauces.
Char siu bao and xiao long bao are must orders at any dim sum restaurant and One Harbour Road’s versions were definitely up there amongst the best I’ve tasted. The bun on the char siu bao was perfectly fluffy, giving way to succulent, sweet barbecued pork that was neither too fatty nor too dry. The xiao long bao’s skin was also just right – neither too thick and chewy nor too thin and delicate.
A dish I would not have picked but would now certainly order again was the deep-fried black mushrooms with osmanthus sauce. The earthy flavour of the mushrooms was beautifully complemented by the sweet, almost caramelised batter encasing them, making them without a doubt one of my favourite dishes of the day.
Again a dish that would never have caught my eye on the menu was the crabmeat dumpling in broth topped with bird’s nest and Yunnan ham. Bird’s nest is something that has never really interested me, yet this dish, with its wonderfully delicate flavour and interesting medley of textures, made me finally begin to understand its allure.
Last of the savouries was a tomato stuffed with kidney beans in sweet and sour sauce – something I have never before seen on a Cantonese restaurant’s menu. It was certainly an interesting dish, although the sweet and sour sauce, of which I have never really been a fan, was a little too much for me.
We ended our meal with three desserts – Walnut cream with sesame dumplings, chilled mango pudding and chilled fresh milk and young ginger pudding, each of which were light and delicious. One Harbour Road is famous for its mango pudding, apparently to the extent that one Japanese tourist, when told that the restaurant had run out of said mango pudding, began to cry hysterically! I wouldn’t say I’d go as far as to cry if it weren’t available, but it was definitely an excellent mango pudding.
Service, as throughout the entire hotel, was exceptional. Prices are obviously significantly higher than dining at any regular dim sum restaurant… but then again this is the Grand Hyatt, the quality is like no other and you are dining with quite a spectacular view.
One Harbour Road
7-8/F, 1 Harbour Road
Tel: +852 2584 7722